A “Carless” Chronicle: What I Learned Trading My Keys For a Passport

written by Logan Grigsby

At first, I was nervous about trading my sedentary, car-dependent life for the walkable streets of Florence. I was nervous about getting lost, accidentally walking into the “bad side of town,” or simply not being able to physically walk that far. However, walking in Florence led me on a journey of self-discovery, connection, and helped transform me physically, spiritually, and emotionally.

In my hometown of Kansas City, going just about anywhere meant getting in the car; heck, I couldn’t even take my own dog on a walk without driving somewhere! My lifestyle was very sedentary most days; I would only walk a couple of thousand steps. I felt unhealthy, and walking more than a few blocks felt foreign to me. However, I knew even before I arrived in Florence that I wanted to trade my car keys for a passport and a nice pair of shoes. I knew I wanted to explore the city, and I knew I wanted to be healthier and happier. I never could have imagined the transformation that was in store for me, physically, emotionally, and even spiritually, and the love I would gain for Florence. This is my journey on how simply walking has changed my perspective and my life.

As I mentioned before, I was in pretty rough shape. I didn’t exercise, I didn’t go to the gym, and I was considered by most to be a “couch potato” stuck in a constant loop of getting out of school, plopping on the couch, and doom scrolling TikTok or Instagram for hours, never seeing the beauty in front of me.

My journey started small. Let me tell you, the first week was a challenge. We had a heat wave, and my body was just not used to walking around. At first, my body screamed when I had to walk across town for class, and don’t even get me started on the hills… Although, as time went on, I started shedding off fat, and the steps got easier as every day went by. At first, I struggled to hit seven thousand steps. I soon found I was disappointed in myself if I got anything less than fifteen thousand.

I remember my first week here attempting to make the trek up to Piazzale Michelangelo; A wonderful square with a beautiful look over the city. It was not the easiest hike. I remember having to stop and take breaks constantly. I drank nearly a gallon of water and I genuinely thought my body would give up on me. I decided to retake that journey during my final week in Florence, and not only did I not need any breaks, but I also found I was genuinely enjoying my journey up the hill!

A healthier lifestyle isn’t all that I found; the true magic of a walkable city isn’t the exercise, but it’s the hidden treasures you find along the way. Things you wouldn’t bat an eye at if you were driving in a car. Wandering aimlessly through the city quickly became a favorite pastime of mine. I didn’t know where I was going, but every day I would pick a new direction and set off. This led to some genuinely life-changing experiences.

During my first week, I found what I assumed was a small, unassuming bookstore. I honestly went in for the air conditioning; however, it turned out to be the legendary “Giunti Odeon,” a library and cinema, and what many locals have told me is one of their favorite places in the city. This quickly became one of my favorite spots to study, hang out, or just relax and watch a movie.

Then, one day while walking along the river, I stumbled upon “The Ultravox,” a truly unique outdoor event space that regularly hosts free concerts and offers a vast array of food options. I must admit, I fell in love.

One of my more memorable experiences was discovering “The Havana Club,” a small area on the river that the Cuban embassy officially recognizes for showcasing their culture in Florence. This is a place where I truly connected with the area and grew culturally. I remember walking up to the sand volleyball court quite nervous and sheepishly asking if I could join in, and before long, I had made a group of friends with local Florentines! They would eventually convince me to take to the dance floor, something I never considered, as I always thought that I had “two left feet.” I was so anxious, I thought I was going to throw up, but surrounded by people with positive attitudes and energy, I quickly found myself learning to Salsa dance. Who would have thought that I would learn to Salsa in Florence, of all places.

Of all the things I have done, if I hadn’t decided to just go on a walk, I would have never had these amazing experiences.

My walks have allowed me to truly appreciate the art and history of the city, which permeates it. My first time walking into Piazza della Signoria, I honestly was at a loss for words. Surrounded by breathtaking architecture, beyond lifelike statues, I have never experienced anything like that, and it will forever be a memory in my mind. Back home, I felt like I never took the time to “stop and smell the roses,” and appreciate the beauty surrounding me; however, in Florence, it is unavoidable.

My appreciation for Florence extends beyond the architecture, though. What truly makes Florence so special is the people who make up the city. Every day I see something new and special, from seeing artists freehand the Mona Lisa on the street with chalk, to guitars and accordions filling the streets with sound, to my first experience with Opera music on the front steps of the Duomo, the melodies of this city have filled my heart and soul.

My most spiritual moment came from walking down the street and discovering a small church on the street corner where I saw locals walking in and out of. I don’t usually consider myself a religious person, but something drew me to it, and I decided I needed to walk in and see the building for myself. It was quiet, it felt holy, but it also felt warm and welcoming. Before coming to Florence, I attended the funeral of a friend near and dear to me and was still struggling a bit with the loss, so I decided to do something I haven’t done in a very long time: I sat and I prayed. I talked to my friend who left too early, I spoke to my family who left this earth too early, and I sat and I prayed. This was a tremendously difficult moment for me, but I honestly felt a weight off my shoulders, and I felt a connection I hadn’t felt in a long time. I honestly felt like a changed person.

My time in Florence has taught me so much. At first, I thought getting more steps in would at best help me lose some weight and breathe a little deeper, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. It builds a sense of community and connection. I love running into my flatmates or classroom friends that I have made here, who may also just be aimlessly walking around, an experience that never happens back home. Trading my keys for a passport was a nerve-wrecking experience at first, but I now know it’s one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. It forced me to slow down, to pay attention, and engage in my new home. I’m not just living in Florence, I am discovering it one step at a time. This experience has changed my body, my heart, my mind, and my soul in the best way possible. I will forever be grateful for my experience here.

Live Music in Florence

Photo by the author

By Shelby Olson

Visiting local music venues throughout Florence is a great way to experience a new form of art as well as the city nightlife. I had the chance to check out three venues in Florence that accommodate to many different styles.  

If you are looking to experience a different form of art in the city, Florence has many live music venues that can accommodate to your style whether that be upbeat, laid back, or a classic feel. I took a look at a few different live music venues throughout the city and had the chance to experience a different side of the nightlife in Florence.

Jazz Club is a great place if you are looking for an upbeat bar full of live music and dancing. They are open late and offer a food menu along with a large selection of drinks. Jazz Club hosts Italian artists and occasionally international artists, and concerts don’t start until later in the evening. The music genre is typically jazz but depends on the band playing and the shows have a very intimate feel. To get into the club, you can purchase a member card at the door for 6 euros (includes a beverage), and you’ll use the card for subsequent visits.

Libreria La Cité is a small cafe and library that hosts live music at night and they occasionally have events on various nights of the week. This is a neat place to check out if you are looking for a relaxing night filled with drinks, books, and music. I had the chance to visit La Cité during the evening and came across a lot of people sitting down with a book and coffee before the music started. The building is not too big but it is packed with bookshelves and even has an upstairs area with comfortable seating. I would definitely go back to this place whether it be for a coffee and book or to listen to music.

The Virgin Rock Pub is well-known for friendly service, rock music, and a great selection of food and drinks. It hosts events on the weekends with live music and aperitivo. The Virgin Rock Pub also has outdoor seating if you want to enjoy the music while still experiencing Florence’s beautiful weather during the summer. I had the opportunity to attend the Virgin Rock Pub during one of their events and it was a neat experience. The space is small but is decorated with old rock memorabilia, drum symbols turned into lights, posters, and paintings. After 10 o’clock, a band played classic rock music while everyone crowded in to listen.

There are many wonderful places in the city that can accommodate to your style. I recommend visiting these music venues during your time in Florence because it gives you a different taste of Florence at night. Try starting out with these spots and definitely venture out to explore the many music venues to check out while living in Florence.

How to Visit:

Jazz Club: Via Nuova de’ Caccini, 3, 50100 Firenze
Closed Monday, Friday-Saturday 11PM-4AM, other days 11PM-3AM

Libreria La Cite: Borgo S. Frediano, 20/r, 50124 Firenze

Virgin Rock Pub: Via dell’Agnolo, 76, 50122 Firenze
Open everyday 3PM-3AM

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Live Music Evenings in Florence


By Madison Starkey

Florence is home to a rich live music scene waiting to be discovered. Madison checked out NoF, a locals’ favorite in the artsy San Frediano neighborhood in the Oltrarno, where the vocals and beat made for an unforgettable experience to be remembered. 

NoF is where good vibes are plenty and musicians from “all corners and crossroads of the globe” are hosted weekly. My friends and I have the good fortune of living just a block away from this cool and confident live jazz club in the Oltrarno neighborhood. We recently caught a performance that I know will be one of my favorite memories of Florence. A young woman with dark hair, black boots, and the strongest, most vibrant voice I’ve ever heard provided the vocals for this unforgettable evening. The night was unforgettable, due to her captivating talent and due to the fact that we stumbled across it by pure chance. We had originally intended to walk past NoF, but the voice of the singer, the rhythm the drummer was banging out, and the smooth, deep sounds emanating from the guitarist’s strings captured us before we could do so. Instead, we wandered, dreamlike, into NoF, and weaved our way through the small crowd to the front of the stage.

And that is where we stayed.

I so vividly remember that night, that music, and stealing glances at my friends faces and enjoying their facial expressions: they were as entranced as I was. The woman’s voice was deep, smooth, and seductive even with the most upbeat songs. The band played mostly jazz music and re-vamped versions of classic hits. I failed to find out what the artist or band’s name was, unfortunately, but I know I’ll be revisiting that night in years to come. In my reveries, one moment I’m taking notes at University, the next, I’m back in that dark wood-panelled room, unable to stop myself from swaying to my imagined, but once real music.

NoF
Borgo S. Frediano 17red

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