A “Carless” Chronicle: What I Learned Trading My Keys For a Passport

written by Logan Grigsby

At first, I was nervous about trading my sedentary, car-dependent life for the walkable streets of Florence. I was nervous about getting lost, accidentally walking into the “bad side of town,” or simply not being able to physically walk that far. However, walking in Florence led me on a journey of self-discovery, connection, and helped transform me physically, spiritually, and emotionally.

In my hometown of Kansas City, going just about anywhere meant getting in the car; heck, I couldn’t even take my own dog on a walk without driving somewhere! My lifestyle was very sedentary most days; I would only walk a couple of thousand steps. I felt unhealthy, and walking more than a few blocks felt foreign to me. However, I knew even before I arrived in Florence that I wanted to trade my car keys for a passport and a nice pair of shoes. I knew I wanted to explore the city, and I knew I wanted to be healthier and happier. I never could have imagined the transformation that was in store for me, physically, emotionally, and even spiritually, and the love I would gain for Florence. This is my journey on how simply walking has changed my perspective and my life.

As I mentioned before, I was in pretty rough shape. I didn’t exercise, I didn’t go to the gym, and I was considered by most to be a “couch potato” stuck in a constant loop of getting out of school, plopping on the couch, and doom scrolling TikTok or Instagram for hours, never seeing the beauty in front of me.

My journey started small. Let me tell you, the first week was a challenge. We had a heat wave, and my body was just not used to walking around. At first, my body screamed when I had to walk across town for class, and don’t even get me started on the hills… Although, as time went on, I started shedding off fat, and the steps got easier as every day went by. At first, I struggled to hit seven thousand steps. I soon found I was disappointed in myself if I got anything less than fifteen thousand.

I remember my first week here attempting to make the trek up to Piazzale Michelangelo; A wonderful square with a beautiful look over the city. It was not the easiest hike. I remember having to stop and take breaks constantly. I drank nearly a gallon of water and I genuinely thought my body would give up on me. I decided to retake that journey during my final week in Florence, and not only did I not need any breaks, but I also found I was genuinely enjoying my journey up the hill!

A healthier lifestyle isn’t all that I found; the true magic of a walkable city isn’t the exercise, but it’s the hidden treasures you find along the way. Things you wouldn’t bat an eye at if you were driving in a car. Wandering aimlessly through the city quickly became a favorite pastime of mine. I didn’t know where I was going, but every day I would pick a new direction and set off. This led to some genuinely life-changing experiences.

During my first week, I found what I assumed was a small, unassuming bookstore. I honestly went in for the air conditioning; however, it turned out to be the legendary “Giunti Odeon,” a library and cinema, and what many locals have told me is one of their favorite places in the city. This quickly became one of my favorite spots to study, hang out, or just relax and watch a movie.

Then, one day while walking along the river, I stumbled upon “The Ultravox,” a truly unique outdoor event space that regularly hosts free concerts and offers a vast array of food options. I must admit, I fell in love.

One of my more memorable experiences was discovering “The Havana Club,” a small area on the river that the Cuban embassy officially recognizes for showcasing their culture in Florence. This is a place where I truly connected with the area and grew culturally. I remember walking up to the sand volleyball court quite nervous and sheepishly asking if I could join in, and before long, I had made a group of friends with local Florentines! They would eventually convince me to take to the dance floor, something I never considered, as I always thought that I had “two left feet.” I was so anxious, I thought I was going to throw up, but surrounded by people with positive attitudes and energy, I quickly found myself learning to Salsa dance. Who would have thought that I would learn to Salsa in Florence, of all places.

Of all the things I have done, if I hadn’t decided to just go on a walk, I would have never had these amazing experiences.

My walks have allowed me to truly appreciate the art and history of the city, which permeates it. My first time walking into Piazza della Signoria, I honestly was at a loss for words. Surrounded by breathtaking architecture, beyond lifelike statues, I have never experienced anything like that, and it will forever be a memory in my mind. Back home, I felt like I never took the time to “stop and smell the roses,” and appreciate the beauty surrounding me; however, in Florence, it is unavoidable.

My appreciation for Florence extends beyond the architecture, though. What truly makes Florence so special is the people who make up the city. Every day I see something new and special, from seeing artists freehand the Mona Lisa on the street with chalk, to guitars and accordions filling the streets with sound, to my first experience with Opera music on the front steps of the Duomo, the melodies of this city have filled my heart and soul.

My most spiritual moment came from walking down the street and discovering a small church on the street corner where I saw locals walking in and out of. I don’t usually consider myself a religious person, but something drew me to it, and I decided I needed to walk in and see the building for myself. It was quiet, it felt holy, but it also felt warm and welcoming. Before coming to Florence, I attended the funeral of a friend near and dear to me and was still struggling a bit with the loss, so I decided to do something I haven’t done in a very long time: I sat and I prayed. I talked to my friend who left too early, I spoke to my family who left this earth too early, and I sat and I prayed. This was a tremendously difficult moment for me, but I honestly felt a weight off my shoulders, and I felt a connection I hadn’t felt in a long time. I honestly felt like a changed person.

My time in Florence has taught me so much. At first, I thought getting more steps in would at best help me lose some weight and breathe a little deeper, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. It builds a sense of community and connection. I love running into my flatmates or classroom friends that I have made here, who may also just be aimlessly walking around, an experience that never happens back home. Trading my keys for a passport was a nerve-wrecking experience at first, but I now know it’s one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. It forced me to slow down, to pay attention, and engage in my new home. I’m not just living in Florence, I am discovering it one step at a time. This experience has changed my body, my heart, my mind, and my soul in the best way possible. I will forever be grateful for my experience here.

Hidden Gem: Locally Owned Gym in Florence Provides Much Needed Solace

written by Alex Daggett for Special Project: Experiential Learning in Journalism

Tucked away on the quiet street, Via del Leone, with a modest sign and entrance, Gym & Tonic is a true, classic testament to athletic performance and bodybuilding. Built on the first floor of a residential building, the space extends to the back with free weights and old school machines adorning the right side. Under a skylit converted garden is a dance studio and boxing area. Certificates, awards, records, and trophies for mens physique occupy the walls everywhere the eye can see, and a sense of community is felt. 

As soon as I arrived in Florence to study abroad for the Summer, I immediately sought after a gym so I could stick to my workout routine.  After some research, there still weren’t any gyms that stood out to me. By pure chance, I happened to walk by Gym & Tonic while exploring the south side of the city, and decided  to take a look around. Immediately upon entering, I was shocked by how seamlessly the whole space was integrated into the classic architecture, nothing looked out of place. I was so used to the concept and sights of large scale commercial gyms where everything looks the same, and this was far from it. Despite the rustic nature of the machinery, everything was clean, and practical. I have been to a non commercial body building gym only once before, and this evoked very similar emotions and feelings, while offering an Italian twist. 

“I’ve been in charge for 26 years, since I inherited the gym from the man who owned before me,” said owner, Francesco Borghesi.

Despite the establishment being older than himself, Borghesi is synonymous with Gym & Tonic in the current date.

“I’ve been lifting weights since I was 15,” Borghesi said. “It’s what I love.” Borghesi provides not only customer relations, but also teaches various courses.

“I am thankful to have many good teachers in my time,”  Borghesi said. “So I try to provide the same to others.”

When I met Borghesi, he was teaching a patron a boxing lesson. Once he was finished, he told me all about the gym. I then bought a membership and got a workout in that day. Since then, I have gone every day and have yet to find a flaw in the gym. The hours are from 10:00 to 20:00, and every time I’m met with an immersive environment full of lively locals. Working out has always been a great escape and opportunity for self focus and reflection, and this is the perfect place for just that. Every time that I go to a commercial gym, it always just feels so clinical and uninviting, but Gym & Tonic offers such a different environment that is refreshing. I am very glad that I found this spot, as it made this international transition a lot easier. 

While it may not be on any travel destinations, or top ten lists, I think that adds to the charm of such an establishment. A place that is largely untouched by tourists offers a level of immersion and authenticity that is hard to come by. For that reason alone, Gym & Tonic is worth checking out, and they even offer day passes for people looking to get a quick lift in. A true hidden gem of Florence, located at Via del Leone 10.