Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” Uffizi Gallery. Photo by the author.
By Kaly Nasiff
The Uffizi is known for its popular paintings, but the museum is also filled with hidden treasures. This is my reaction to a lesser known painting called “Massacre of the Innocents” by Marco Benefial.
Not much is known about Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” except that it was painted in the 1700s. When I saw it at the Uffizi Gallery I knew nothing about it. I had spent the afternoon being overwhelmed by the artworks that line nearly every inch of the Uffizi. The bright colors of this painting initially caught my attention, but upon further inspection, I realized that fiery women were fighting off savage men in order to save their children. I immediately fell in love with the determined faces of these women. They did not care that the men were larger and stronger than they were; they fought back with a passion that I found invigorating.
Looking around me, no one seemed to be as captivated with the painting as I was. I knew it was not one of the more famous paintings in the gallery, but I did not understand how anyone could ignore these women. Sure, they did not look like “Birth of Venus,” but to me they were more interesting. I was struck by the huge difference when I saw Sandro Botticelli’s Venus just minutes later. There was a crowd of people around the painting trying to get pictures of and with Venus. While it is a beautiful and famous painting, nothing about “Birth of Venus” made me feel what “Massacre of the Innocents” did. Venus is stunning but almost standoffish, and seems to be there to have others look at her. Meanwhile the women in Benefial’s painting were not placed in the painting for anyone’s benefit. They were meant to be appreciated for their determination rather than their beauty. I can only imagine and guess what Benefial was thinking when he painted these women, but I hope that he was trying to represent them as I saw them.
On a sunny day in Firenze it’s hard to miss the bright, bronze sculptures sitting in Piazza della Signoria. But what might be even more shocking is how modern they look contrasted to the sculptures from centuries ago. Pieces from Jan Fabre’s exhibition can be found all over Florence. Find out why they’re here.
Many of you have probably been wondering what the heck a giant sea turtle is doing in the middle of Piazza della Signoria. That’s exactly what passed through my mind the morning I took my usual route to class and saw this big, shiny sculpture I had never seen before. So I decided to do some research to find out what this whole thing was about and share it with everyone who may be as flabbergasted as I was.
Jan Fabre (born in 1958) is a Belgian artist, playwright, stage director, choreographer, and designer. He is having an art exhibition here in Florence called Spiritual Guards. The exhibition is sponsored by the City of Florence, and it is be located between Forte Belvedere, Palazzo Vecchio, and Piazza della Signoria. It is said to be one of the most complex and complicated exhibitions in public spaces created by Jan Fabre. The exhibition will also host hundreds of works done by Fabre between 1978 to 2016 such as bronze sculptures, like the man riding the turtle, installations of beetle shells, wax sculptures, and documentary films of his performances.
The sculpture standing in the middle of the piazza is called Searching for Utopia. On top of the turtle sits a man holding on to reins. This man is the representation of the equestrian statue that was given to Grand Duke Cosimo I, a member of the Medici family and the Grand Duke of Tuscany, which was created by Giambologna.
As I stood there looking at the big turtle, I thought about how the artist paid attention to every detail on the turtle’s shell and on the man riding it. This sculpture is a cross between classical art and contemporary art.
I watched as people gathered around and took selfies with their selfie sticks. Many who just arrived in the city probably don’t realize that this statue has not been there for a while, and think that it is a piece of art that is part of the piazza. I see how they just stand in awe and admire the shiny gold piece of bronze, which looks a lot like Crush, the turtle from Finding Nemo. Children run around the installation and inspect it from every angle, probably wishing they could slide down the turtle’s shell or act as the captain of the ship.
Now every time you walk pass by this shiny, big sculpture and find a person who is just as confused as you were, you will be able to explain to some extent what it is about. If you are interested, Palazzo Vecchio is hosting a series of sculptures interacting with the frescoes and artifacts housed in some rooms to the public. Then check out the entire Fabre exhibition at Fort Belvedere. Fabre will be displayed in Florence until Oct 2. Spiritual Guards is a great art exhibition for those who love imagination and beauty.
Certain things and places become the cultural icons of a city. It’s enough to mention the David, Duomo, and Boboli Gardens for most travelers to immediately associate them to Florence; they’ve become by now not only icons of culture but also mass tourism. Venice, another highly visited Italian city, immediately conjures up Piazza San Marco, canals, gondolas, and lavish Carnevale celebrations. FUA student Mikayla Rendall took tourism a step further by not only going on a gondola ride but interviewing the gondoliere for his perspective as a Venetian local.
When did you become a gondolier? I was born and raised in Venice and started giving gondola rides about eight years ago. I‘m now living on the other side of Venice because of the high expenses of living on the canal.
What made you decide to become a gondolier? I love being on the water. Venice is beautiful and after living here for 33 years I knew this was something I want to do for a long time.
How did you learn this craft? I learned as young man since my father had his own gondola but I got my own license to become a professional gondolier later on.
What year did the gondolas originate? They are extremely old and go back to the 11th century, but there have been many changes over time time to make them stronger and larger.
What are the gondolas made of? Gondolas are a flat-bottomed boat made of many pieces and eight different types of wood. The oar of the gondola is made from beech and are made for the narrow canals in Venice and quick maneuvers.
How deep are the canals? The grand canal is around 18-20 feet and most other canals are about 8 feet. When high tide comes sometimes we cannot provide rides because the water is too high and the boats don’t fit under the bridges. The water levels keep getting higher so now no one can live on the first floor of the apartments that are on the canal.
What does this mean for the future? Gondola rides may not be available on city canals if water levels keep rising. We will not fit under the bridges because they are not high enough and the boat is tall in the front and back.
What is the busiest season for gondola rides? Carnival in February is a busy time for tourists and in the spring.Gondola rides are requested solely by tourists, most locals don’t get on.
How often do you work and for how long? During busy days I will work up to six times every week. I usually work ten-hour days. On the slower months, I work less so my schedule is always changing.
What is your favorite part about being a gondolier? Getting to know people from all around the world and showing them the beauty of Venice.
With clamped eyelids and the flicker of a burning candle, I contemplated my wish. As my life’s dream reemerged back into my conscious thought, my eyes flicked open, I peeked at the wax “10” in front of me, and I blew. Underneath, in place of a conventional birthday cake, lay a cannoli; I looked up from the red checkerboard table and saw my cheering family under the light of the Macaroni Grill sign. My wish was to travel; little did I know that I would be enjoying an authentic Italian meal in Florence only 10 years later.
Growing up, I had always loved food. I sat at dinner tables scooping mussels from shells and openly trying international cuisine. To this day, I actively search for new flavor combinations and cooking techniques. Despite my culinary openness, my perception of Italian cooking has changed dramatically since my arrival in Florence. I grew up with the mac and cheese, breadsticks, and spaghetti of Italian restaurant chains back home; and despite trying my hand in Italian home cooking, I really didn’t know what the “real thing” entailed. For me, I was coming to the land of bread, cheese, and pasta; and I was 100% fine with that.
Upon arrival, I aimlessly wandered Florence’s winding streets as I gripped my list of recommended panino and aperitivo places. After tasting some of Italy’s fresh pasta and coming to the harsh realization that meatballs are not an actual thing here, I realized how skewed my perception on this lifestyle was. My day to day life in town surprisingly never included the bread or pasta-induced food comas of the “Italian” food that I was accustomed to, and instead, I felt physically and mentally satisfied with what I was putting into my body. In fact, although the study abroad 15 has proved an irritating reality, I have never felt as good about the food I was consuming.
After a few weeks, once the initial excitement died down, I started to eat in more. Whether at the farmer’s market or grocery store, I slowly began appreciating the seasonality and freshness of what I was consuming. Although eating in does not seem like the optimal way to seize the day while abroad, learning to utilize fresh, regional ingredients in simple recipes gave me a deeper appreciation for the food I was eating and for Italian culture. My roommates and I have made everything from roasted vegetables to pork chops to shrimp with lemon asparagus; and the simple act of learning to work with seasonal, simple ingredients has shown me more about Italian culture than I would have ever expected.
Looking back, my experience with food while abroad and my deeper appreciation for what I eat has mirrored my sense of appreciation for all aspects of culture. Like expanding my knowledge on the slow food movement, biodynamic farming, and the third wave coffee movement through conversations with locals, I have learned to step out of my comfort zone and challenge my perception of Italy, travelling, and on life in general. This experience has opened my eyes to finding value and culture in the tiniest of details; whether it be a tablespoon of olive oil, my daily walk past the Santa Croce, or a genuine conversation with friends from around the world. Above all else, studying abroad has taught me to openly seek out culture in every aspect of living, and it is something I cannot wait to apply beyond the walls of the city I now call my home.
White marble, red and green lines of color, ornate details covering every inch of its facade, copper ball protruding into the sky. Before arriving for the semester, I knew of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, better known as the Duomo of Florence, but little about its historical or cultural significance within Italy as a European country. My feelings towards one of Florence’s most popular landmarks have evolved throughout my time abroad.
When I first saw the church, I was astounded by its massive size. I strained my neck, scanning the entire length of the front side with hungry eyes. I saw the Duomo in its entirety– the lines of color, the white marble, and the large wooden doors.
After the thrill of the first sighting, I learned that people use the church as a meeting point which frustrated me. Whenever someone said to meet by the Duomo, my body grew tense. Where? I thought. This thing is too big.
I soon became accustomed to walking past the Duomo each day. I hadn’t thought much about the church after my first month abroad other than wishing it wasn’t my usual route to class when flocks of tourists visited, making my route longer than usual.
As I stepped away from the Duomo, I realized its functional purpose. When I would become lost around Florence, I simply walked down a few streets and waited to see the Duomo’s copper ball and spherical top. Though I was aware of the Duomo’s presence, I solely viewed it for its practical use.
My indifference began to shift right before my parents’ visit halfway through the semester. Because of my dad’s interest in architecture and history, he read a book about the Duomo before his arrival entitled Brunelleschi’s Dome: How a Renaissance Genius Reinvented Architecture. He asked me, “Did you know they didn’t even use buttresses to support the weight of the Duomo? And that the copper ball fell off in the 1500’s?” I didn’t. I felt ashamed that I had failed to learn much about a monument that stands only five minutes away from my apartment.
As the lines became longer for everything in April, I knew it was time I climbed the Duomo. I purchased my ticket, woke up early on a Wednesday morning, and waited in line. As I began walking up the steep steps, a rush of energy overwhelmed my body. I thought of all the people who did the same hundreds of years ago, the ones who dedicated their lives to create such a beautiful combination of art and architecture to create a place for worship. And, now I was climbing to the top.
Later that same day, I entered the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and marveled at the displays and the information that accompanied them. It was fascinating to learn about the comprehensive history behind such an influential monument that I was lucky to see on a daily basis. I stepped out of the museum and the Duomo greeted me; my mouth immediately curled into a smile. Wow, I thought.
As I reflect on the semester, I have realized that the Duomo isn’t simply one singular piece of architecture that can be absorbed and processed from one sighting. It’s comprised of many pieces and the tiniest of details: the distinct expressions on the face of numerous statues, the marbled spirals in the windows, the gold streaks of the paintings. I neglected to see all of these intricacies when I first arrived.
These intricacies have not only been present in the Duomo’s structure but also my daily life in Florence: the scent of finocchiona floating in the air as I pass a panino shop, the familiar faces of street musicians, a small piece of colorful street art poking out from the ground.
The church that was once a nuisance to walk around has become a reassuring point of reference, a sign that I had returned home after a long day or weekend of traveling, and a sense of stability in a semester that presented new experiences and challenges each week. During my last few weeks in Florence, I take a little extra time to find a small detail that had previously gone unnoticed. It never fails.
Gelato can be found in virtually every street corner in Florence. As a Florentine delicacy, locals and visitors stroll the streets with a cone in hand no matter the season. Over the years, because of its touristic popularity, traditional, quality gelato has become more and more of a rarity. We sat down with Vetulio Bondi, owner of I Gelati del Bondi and president of the Florence Gelato Association, to gain insight into recognizing quality, authentic gelato in Florence. Bondi has also taught a gelato making course at Apicius. We’ve narrowed down our interview with him into 3 simple steps to keep handy when trying out new gelaterie.
1. Read the Ingredients
Fresh, authentic gelato should not need any preservatives or extra fat. The main ingredient should be fresh milk and the sugar used should lead to a smooth, “warm” gelato, as opposed to a sweeter, colder treat that was popular in the 80s.
Bondi also attributes his high quality gelato to his strong relationships with the hazelnut, pistachio, and produce farmers that he works with.
2. Order In-Season Flavors
It is easy to overlook the environmental difference of ordering mango sorbet in the winter as opposed to pear. Bondi prefers serving in-season, local flavors to cut down on food miles. “In Europe, we try to follow the seasons, so in the summer, it is much better to eat the peach sorbet than the mango sorbet because the mangos will be coming from Brazil, so it can cause pollution and peach sorbet, melon sorbet, watermelon sorbet, and plum sorbet is amazing.” If you want to know what is in season when, here is a list.
3. “When You See a Mountain, Turn Around”
Like any tourist destination, flashy fakes are everywhere. When looking for authentic gelato shops, steer clear of the mountain-high, neon window displays. These are often made with artificial flavors, colors, oil, and fat. You want to spend your time seeking out neutral colored, simpler displays. Some places will cover the gelato with lids, which usually means they made it that morning.
If you have time, stop by I Gelati del Bondi. Our personal favorites are his peach, salted caramel, pistachio, hazelnut chocolate, or cherry.
Schiacciata sandwich in Florence. Photo by the authors.
By Deborah Glasso, Leanora Karnath, Morgan O’Reilly
Schiacciata is a typical flatbread of the Tuscany region used to prepare panini. In English, the word translates to “crushed” or “flattened.” If you’ve lived in the Tuscany region, unsalted bread is probably what first comes to mind when thinking of bread products. In contrast, schiacciata is sprinkled with coarse salt grains, giving consumers a burst of flavor coupled with other ingredients in a panino. Made with flour, yeast, water, salt, and olive oil, traditional schiacciata should be crispy, but not hard. Also, the olive oil should not produce a greasy feeling but be enough to complement the mix of ingredients.
After learning about schiacciata in Florence, we decided to extend our research one step further with some tastings and then compare our findings.
Morgan – soft or crispy?
After living in Florence for three months, I have fallen in love with Schiacciata. From trying too many places than I would like to admit, I realized I prefer a crispier crust with a fluffy center as opposed to a thinner, chewier flatbread I usually get at All’Antico Vinaio. My personal favorite spot is Sandwichic because they use just enough olive oil and salt to make the flatbread crispy and flavorful. The Oil Shoppe also deserves a mention for their softer, circular schiacciata that I also enjoy.
SandwiChic: Via San Gallo, 3 Al’Antico Vinaio: Via dei Neri, 74/R
Lea – olive oil in each bite
After trying many different panino shops, I found Due Sorsi e un Boccone (“two sips and a bite”) which has become my favorite place for a quick bite. I was happy to discover the consumers were mostly Italian which has always been helpful to seek out local spots. I love how the schiacciata is crispy but not too hard as I’ve tried some places where the schiacciata can scrape the roof of my mouth, leaving an unpleasant sensation. I also view the schiacciata as characteristic of the traditional staple because of its olive oil you can taste with each bite. The taste does not distract from any of the other ingredients but enhances the overall experience of eating a panino and indulging your taste buds.
Due Sorsi e un Boccone: Via degli Alfani, 105
Deborah – great ingredients, great sandwiches
Being a Florentine, I believe that All’Antico Vinaio is one of the few places that offers good street food. The schiacciata is crushed with sbriciolona, a cured meat with fennel seeds, so we can say it is a must-try in Florence.
The Prosciutteria is another great place to try this traditional Tuscan favorite, just a few doors down from All’Antico Vinaio. Vinaino Di Parte Guelfa also offers tasty sandwiches with typical Tuscan and Florentine ingredients.
Vinaino Di Parte Guelfa: Via Val di Lamona, 6 La Prosciutteria: Via dei Neri, 54r
Our Findings
From recommendations of professors and other locals, our tastings led us to the discovery that despite schiacciata’s status as a Tuscan staple, various places prepare the bread in different ways. While some may be very crispy on the outside, others are softer which results in a more chewy bite. The “best” panino shop is subjective because people enjoy their breads in different ways. The staple has evolved and each panino shop has their own take on how to prepare it.
Sometimes, envisioning your life in a new country can be a bit difficult to imagine until after you’ve arrived. Whether you are getting ready to come abroad or already in Florence and in need of inspiration, below are some itineraries of a typical day of FUA semester students. Semester classes are usually held once a week and students typically take anywhere from 4-6 courses. If you’ve signed up for any 3-week short session courses within the 15-week semester, remember that classes will be held daily from Monday to Friday.
Day 1 Leanora shares an example of her typical day that coincides with when she has one class and has some extra time to explore locally while balancing coursework.
9:30am – Wake up.
10am – Grab a cappuccino and chocolate croissant at Fedora, the pastry shop operated by FUA hospitality students and faculty.
10:30am-12:30pm – Check out a new museum. Already seen the major ones? Then try these smaller gems.
1-2pm – Browse through the Sant’Ambrogiofresh food market and purchase some groceries for the week.
2:30pm – Grab lunch from my favorite panino place. Grabbing a panino is something quick and easy to eat before class. There are many options in the area, so try a few before deciding which one you like best.
3-5:30pm – Travel Writing class at the FUA journalism building near the Duomo.
6-8pm – Cross the street from the J School towards the Oblate Library to do homework.Pack up my backpack. Enjoy the great view of the Duomo with a pastry from the cafe.
8:30 – Dinner out with friends.Meet by the Duomo and head over to the Santo Spirito area. Walk by the Arno River along the way.
Day 2 Morgan shares her typical day when she has two classes scheduled.
9am – Wake up.
10am – Grab a cappuccino and a pastry at specialized coffee bar such as Ditta Artigianale. There are many spots around Florence for a coffee and a quick bite to eat, both traditional and from newer generations. Being a barista myself, love checking out new coffee places on my way to class and discovering different coffee drinks.
10:30am – Read a book or paint in the Rose Garden.
12pm-2:30pm – Intermediate Drawing class at the FUA main building near Piazza Santa Croce. If you want to take an art class at FUA, this class focuses on human anatomy through Florentine sculpture. You learn how to improve your technical drawing skills while applying them to your own drawing style.
3pm – Grab a fennel salami panino with pecorino and pear jam at Sandwichic and sit on the steps of the San Lorenzo church.
3:30pm-5:30pm – Do some homework in the top floor, open-air courtyard of the Oblate Library.
6pm-8:30pm – International Marketing class at the main building. Learn marketing techniques on a global scale through lecture and real world application to a multinational company.
Other Activities? FUA offers a series of extracurricular activities so students can become more involved in the community and fellow peers. Here’s a selection of some of our favorites.
Taste Italy Culinary Workshops – The classes are fun and interactive, held at FUA’s hospitality school, Apicius, and you can meet FUA students over some delectable food.
FUA’s Gym Classes – These are a fun and social way to stay motivated and healthy as you explore your way through Italian/Tuscan food culture:). The gym also has regular hours for workouts.
Ganzo Themed Dinner –These are delicious and so much fun. They also happened to be prepared by FUA culinary classes so you can check out what your hospitality peers are up to. Check out the calendar for upcoming Thursday themes, put your reservation in early, and enjoy interesting, delicious courses with wonderful wine pairings.
Visit the Student Life department’s website to learn other ways to become involved in your new home. Curious about what fellow students suggest? This blog regularly offers ideas, suggestions, and explorations so keep checking back for updates!
Photo by Davide Raguda via unsplash.com – Leaning Tower of Pisa
By Morgan O’Reilly
When studying abroad in as beautiful an area as Tuscany, the opportunities for rich history and scenic views lie just outside Florence’s city walls. Students can find three unique towns within the area between Florence and the coast.
Pisa
Students from Florence can easily catch a 50 minute train ride into this small city for a full or half day or history, art, and great food. Marta Russo, an FUA faculty member who lived in Pisa for 19 years, has kindly provided a local perspective on this famous little town. Aside from the infamous Leaning Tower, some other beautiful sites include the Piazza dei Cavalieri and Piazza Martiri della Libertà. She recommends a nice stroll along the Lungarni (sidewalks along the river), where one can see the Chiesa della Spina, originally built on the river bank of the Arno and later rebuilt on a higher level. Two other churches visitors can visit are Chiesa Santa Caterina and Chiesa di San Francesco.
All of the good restaurants in Pisa are located near the market squares Piazza delle Vettovaglie and Piazza Sant’Omobono, according to Russo. These include La Mescita and Il Campano, among others. For a good panini, Il Crudo in Piazza della Berlina (aka Piazza Cairoli) of Il Montino in Via Monte; where the local specialty is focaccia con la cecina, a traditional dish made with chickpea flour, water, and olive oil, which is baked and stuffed into a flour focaccia bread.
For those interested in art, Russo recommends checking out the current exhibition at Palazzo Blue, the venue exhibiting the major art shows of great painters of the past (like Picasso or Modigliani.) One thing visitors don’t know is that there is a Keith Haring mural painting on the side of the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio, so there is even some modern art in this culturally rich city.
Lucca
A small town to the west of Florence, Lucca radiates rich history, art, scenic views, beautiful churches, and plenty of greenery. High walls surround the city, eluding military history dating back to 200 A.C, now provide visitors with a beautiful walking path, picnic spots, and playgrounds for a relaxed afternoon under the shade of their chestnut trees.
The beautiful churches of Lucca include the San Michele in Foro Church, the San Martino Cathedral, and the Church and Baptistery of San Giovanni and Reparata. All originally built before the 14th century, these Romanesque monuments are not to be missed.
The Piazza dell’ Anfiteatro, a former Roman amphitheatre, now holds restaurants, cafe’s, and shops along its oval-shaped frame. In July, the piazza makes a perfect venue for open-air music performances.
To end a day of sightseeing and strolling around the city’s walls, visitors can climb the Guinigi Tower’s 130 steps for spectacular views of the historic city.
Livorno
An understated small port city on the western coast of Tuscany, Livorno holds great seafood, majestic panoramic views, a Venetian-style neighborhood, and a short train ride from Santa Maria Novella.
Piccola Venezia, or little Venice, is a fun pocket of Livorno crossed with small canals built during the 17th century using Venetian methods of reclaiming land from the sea. Whether via foot path or by boat, the canals provide picturesque scenes of the city with nice waterside cafes interspersed.
The Terrazza Mascagni is a popular spot in the city where guests can discover panoramic views of the beautiful city. Built in the 1920s, this dazzling terrace captivates its visitors with the seafront as well as the cityscape, perfect for sunset after a long day of exploration.
Coffee does not limit itself to its basic ingredients and the seemingly fundamental role of stimulating its consumer. Coffee sits in cafe bars under the dull roar of thought-provoking conversation. Coffee occupies cupholders in Manhattan taxis, accompanies egg yolks and condensed milk in Vietnam, and carries ceremonial value in Ethiopia. It can exist as a supportive friend among late-night spreadsheets and early-morning meetings, and its aroma alone can wake a sleepy family on a rainy Saturday morning. Coffee has the power to support entire villages through the harvesting trade, especially with the insurance of the Fair Trade Movement. It is complex and the possibilities for innovation lie infinitely between the harvesting, the roasting, the brewing methods, and the preparation.
The drink originated in the highlands of Ethiopia, where it arrived in the Middle East before spreading to Venice in the 1570s. Coffeehouses later spawned all along its canals before spreading to other major Italian cities like Turin and Rome. Since then, coffee has transcended past its functionality of improving productivity into a rich, diverse, ever evolving culture across the world’s borders.
As a previous barista and hopeful future coffee shop owner, I had a delightful week exploring the coffee culture Florence has to offer.
Basic Coffee Etiquette in Italy
Coffee culture in Italy stands unprecedented among its neighbors; it is quick and medicinal with little to no fuss over the preparation. Because of its uniqueness, the dreaded ‘tourist’ label can come far too easily. To avoid the foxpaus, here are some observations I’ve compiled:
Any coffee drink containing dairy should only be consumed in the morning, and never after a meal.
Coffee in Italy is enjoyed its simplest and purest form. Caffé shelves leave no space for an array of flavor pumps, so savor your beverage and try to taste all the subtle hints from the brew.
In a traditional Italian bar (neighborhood coffee joint), always check if you need to pay for a receipt first to present to the barista or if you can order first and pay later.
Typically, locals order and drink coffee at the counter. It also costs much less than sit-down coffee in some of the bigger cafes in squares such as Duomo, Repubblica, and Signoria.
Typical menu items
Caffè: One shot of espresso
Cappuccino: Espresso with foamed milk
Caffè Macchiato: Espresso with a dash of milk
Latte Macchiato: Hot milk with a dash of coffee
Caffè Americano:Espresso with the addition of hot water
Other spin-offs found at most Italian cafes:
Caffè Shakerato: A frothy iced coffee drink prepared with ice cubes in a cocktail shaker. Usually served in a martini glass
Caffè d’orzo: A caffeine free beverage made from roasted barley
Caffè ginseng: Similar to white coffee: a cream, usually of the plant origin, the sugar, the instant coffee and the dry extract of ginseng
Marocchino: Popular in Milan, this drink comes in a small glass dusted with cocoa powder, when topped with milk froth and espresso, and topped with some more cocoa powder
Cappuccino Viennese: A cappuccino topped with whipped cream and cocoa powder
Pro Tip: My all-time personal favorite is the cold brew, the espresso-ground beans are steeped in cold water for 24 hours. This method results in a less acidic, slightly sweeter drink. I like to pour the black coffee over ice, but a splash of milk or cream is always a good move. You can easily make cold brew at home by steeping the beans in a french press.
The Old School, the Roasters, and the Contemporary: Without question, every coffeeshop derives from a wide variety of values, customs, and creativity; so in no way can one title sum up an entire business. This being said, these three coffee categories do point to major differences throughout Florence’s coffee scene.
Old School bar/pasticceria These shops contain classic Italian coffee and fresh pastries. They stick to the roots of Italian coffee culture to provide an authentic, timeless experience.
Example: Pasticceria Nencioni. Open for over 60 years, this family-owned Florentine coffee and pastry bar stands as a charming gem with a wide array delicious sweets and quality coffee. Whether it be a profiterole, a mini tart, a croissant, or a slice of cake, this shop will please its guests through their freshly homemade approach and unbeatable tradition.
Atmosphere: The shop gives off a timeless, charming feel with their beautiful pastries displayed before the customer.
The Roasters Some roasting companies open stores in the city, so their base value lies on their quality, specialty coffees.
Example: ChiaroScuro. This shop was opened by the roasting company Mokaflor and contains coffees and teas from around the world. The array of espresso drinks, hot chocolates, and teas proves quite impressive, so don’t be afraid to take your time deciding. Personally, I am fond of the caffè nocciolato, combining their high quality, rich espresso with hazelnut and whipped cream.
Atmosphere: This shop has a homey, old school atmosphere with plenty of seating.
The Contemporary Many New Age Coffee shops typically value the Third Wave Coffee movement, in which coffee is treated as a culinary delicacy, like wine, rather than a commodity. The movement lends itself to stronger relationships between coffee growers, traders, and roasters, as well as focusing on direct trade, single origin coffee (as opposed to blends), and high-quality beans. Along with these ideals, they may emphasize fair trade as well as focussing on the unique atmosphere of the space.
Example: Ditta Artigianale. This contemporary coffee shop prides itself in its focus on international coffee blends and brewing methods. Also directly involved in the roasting process, the shop combines the traditional values of Italian coffee culture with the Third Wave movement. The Artigianale baristas are knowledgeable of the bean’s origin and the process to which they receive them, so they gladly welcome conversation over their coffee’s “story.” In fact, the shop itself is designed to welcome this interaction through their lower-than-normal counters and complete visibility between the customer and the barista.
Atmosphere: The shop on Via Dei Neri, in my opinion, gives off a retro vibe with the script typography and industrial lighting. It’s a great place to sit and finish some homework or enjoy friendly conversation while alternative, mellow music fills the space. In contrast, the newOltrarno location gives off a more posh atmosphere through interesting patterns and lighting, a muted, sophisticated color scheme, and more mature, jazzy playlist.
