Finding Florence – Page 26 – FUA-AUF Student Blog

Il Palio: More than a Horse Race

By Monica Humphries

For us, it was a fun race, but for others, it was an event they had waited for all year. From the moment we stepped off the bus in Siena, we learned what the Il Palio means to the city.

Il Palio is horse race held twice a year in the heart of Siena. Piazza del Campo, the city’s main piazza, transforms into a race track. Dirt is packed down on the cobblestone, and fences are built to create the course. The city is divided into 17 districts (contrade) but only ten districts will compete in the race. The jockeys ride bareback and wear their district’s colors. Throughout the day parades and celebrations take place to prepare for the race. The horses are blessed, the bets are made and everyone gathers to the center for the race to start.

The race isn’t about coming in first but about beating your rival. Everywhere you look you see people with colorful flags tied around their necks, cheering for their district. To truly embrace the race, I picked the Tartuca district to cheer for and wore a yellow and blue flag embellished with a turtle, the district’s symbol.

As thousands trickled into the city center, anticipation slowly built up. The race was three simple laps around the track. Months have gone by in anticipation for those three laps.

Above the crowd I could see the brightly colored jockeys ready to race. Decked in black and white, yellow and red, or blue and white with distinguishing patterns, they all sat on their horses pacing for the start. The rules of the Il Palio involve a complicated tradition for starting the race, so it could start at any moment.

Twenty minutes passed, a shotgun was fire and the race had begun. We could feel a gust of air as the horses passed us. We felt the dirt kicked up from the horses’ hooves. We watched as the horses circled the track and competed to finish first.

When the first horse from the Lupa contrada crossed the finish line, the entire town erupted into emotion. The district hadn’t won a Palio since 1989 so emotions ran high. Immediately people were jumping over fences to congratulate the winning jockey and hug their friends and families. Tears of joy ran down some faces, while others cried with disappointment. Tensions broke out, people hugged and the race was over. People paraded down streets in celebration, while our group stood in amazement. The race itself was incredible, but the aftermath left us in shock. This wasn’t a silly race, but a long-lasting tradition built up over centuries. People took pride in their district and celebrated their culture.

The race itself was short but the day was long. Seeing firsthand a tradition that dates back to the 14^th century isn’t an opportunity I come across often. On one hand, it was amazing getting to be a part of the tradition. But on the other, I still felt like an outsider. I had no investments in the race, but felt the heart rise as the horses cross the finish line. At the start of the day, the Il Palio felt so foreign to me, but by the end, I had grasped a better understanding of a city and its culture.

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Venice in a Day?

By Monica Humphries

Venice is full of little nooks and crannies but often the beautiful, wider bodies of water are overlooked. This shot was taken from a gondola. The contrasting blues from the water and sky along with the architecture of the buildings and windows captured my vision of Venice. To fully understand Venice you have to be on the water, which is why it was important for me to have a photo from a lower perspective and angled up towards the sky and windows.

Travel Tips:

Known for its gondolas and seafood, Venice feels like a must-do if you’re spending your summer in Florence. But when I opened my map and my budget, I had to ask: one day or two?

Venice is a small city made up of over 100 islands, and although it may seem small from the scope of a map, there’s a lot to do in Venice. Highlights of Venice include watching glass blowing in Murano Island, taking a gondola ride, viewing the contemporary art museums and sipping a Bellini next to the water.

With Venice being so small, one of its challenges is finding a place to stay. If you’re on a student budget there aren’t a lot of options within the city. However, just outside the city there a quite a few places with differing budgets. You can find everything from a typical hostel to a campsite. So pick a place and factor the added time a train ride to the city will take.

Also consider price. Venice is known for luxury. Being a college student, it might be a little more difficult to spend €80 on a boat ride or €30 on dinner. It’s important to consider food and activities when making a decision on how long to stay.

Finally, know what you want to do. Are you planning on getting there at the crack of dawn and staying to see the sunset? Will you venture to any of the farther islands? Are touring the churches important to you? In order to know what you want to do, you have to know a little about the city. Venice is known Biennale, a six-month art festival. Each year it switches between art and architecture (this year is architecture), and it’s held from May to November. But even if you don’t go during festival months, there’s always an open contemporary museum to discover. Another favorite form of art for Venetians is food. Being on the water, indulging in seafood is a must. Outside of seafood, Venice has wonderful Tiramisu, pasta and drinks to enjoy. Finally, Venice is home to Saint Mark’s Basilica. This and a huge piazza are in the heart of the city. You could spend weeks in Venice and still have a full list to do, so if you’re planning on going just for a day, do your research and make a list of the key things you want to get done.

In a city so beautiful you can spend as much or as little time there. I spent only the afternoon, but I felt rushed. I wish my trip could’ve been more relaxed and the commute not as long, however I was satisfied. Just know that you might not accomplish everything in a single day, but you’ll get a wonderful taste of the city.

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My Transition Place: Arno River & Carraia Bridge

Photo of Ponte alla Carraia by the author

By Monica Humphries

When you step out of your apartment for the very first time, it’s a whirlwind of emotions. You feel enthralled to be in a new place. You feel excited for what the semester has to offer. You feel anxious, confused and eager.

I felt nervous.

Yes there were positive emotions, but buried not-so-deep were my nerves. I was in a foreign country, and the car ride to my apartment left me feeling like I was on the other side of the world.

I can vividly remember our driver taking all 7 students to their apartments. The first one was dropped off right past the Duomo, the second two near the San Lorenzo, a few more in the city center. Then there was me. I could remember crossing a river, going up and down the one-way streets, and finally pulling into a narrow, bike-filled lane right up to apartment number nine. After what must have been a half hour, I was home, but I wasn’t happy.

Although I was just on the other side of the river, I felt like there was a wall dividing me from all of my classmates. I stepped out onto the cobblestone street and immediately was lost. I stumbled my way through the streets until I found the Arno.

Since that first afternoon, the Arno, more specifically the Ponte alla Carraia, which is the bridge that leads to my street, has become my favorite place in Florence.

No matter where I was coming from – class, dinner or a cappuccino, all I had to do was find the river, and I knew exactly where I was. Since moving to Florence, the river is not only beautiful, but it has also become my safety net. A safety net that encourages me to explore and challenge my surroundings.

Curious about the Arno’s history and bridges, I talked to Giulio Vinci, a professor at FUA.

Vinci started at the very beginning. Florence was founded and controlled by the Romans. Romans generally build their cities in the valleys, so Florence followed this tradition and was built in a valley close to the river.

The city was structured in a rectangular shape with two central roads crossing through the city. The city was close to the water, but Florence wasn’t directly on the water, so there wasn’t travel between the sides of the river. Florence began expanding, and the Ponte Vecchio was the first bridge across the Arno. The first occurrence of the bridge was in a painting in 996.

The Ponte alla Carraia bridge is the second oldest bridge in Florence and known for its history of collapsing. Built in 1218 by architect Lapo, it collapsed for the first time in 1274 because of a flood. The bridge was originally built in wood, but it was rebuilt in stone. However, the stone was strong enough to support a crowd and collapsed again. In 1333 another flood struck Florence, and the bridge was once again destroyed. The most recent collapse was during WWII when it was bombed to prevent passage of allied troops from the Nazis in retreat.

Vinci said that tourism has exponentially grown in the past 20 years, and now Florence is a key location for visitors. He made a point to express that the river and its bridges always attract tourists. Florence is known for its concentration of art, and the bridges are a part of that art. But not everyone, unfortunately, is interested in the art and history behind the bridges, and many prefer to simply use the bridges are picture spots. We’ve lost the meaning of tourism, and traveling today is vastly different from the young aristocrats of the 18th century who often went on year-long Grand Tour to discover the culture of European cities.

Thinking about what Vinci shared helped me appreciate my time here. Sometimes three months seems like forever, but with a city that has enough history for a lifetime, I’m thankful that I will have a chance to immerse myself and retain the details I learn about this city.

Walking home from the interview gave me a chance to reflect on my time here. Although it’s only been a month, I can now continue to expand my safety net to the entire city of Florence.

The bridge is a place of comfort but it’s now a place of curiosity. Each time I walk across the bridge I notice a new detail. I question the statue at the entrance, the crack along the pavement and the windows in the Ponte Vecchio. The comfort I have now encourages me to explore. It’s important that every student finds their Ponte alla Carraia. Whether it’s the San Lorenzo church or carousel in Piazza della Repubblica, we need a monument or location where we feel at home. But part of home is knowing its history and why it’s there. Yes, the pictures we take are important, but the history behind those photographs enrich our experience so much more. Take a second, learn about the area you call home, because you might end up loving the city just a little bit more.

I find comfort in the bridge because that’s where I find confidence. Confidence with directions, confidence in knowing there’s the best gelato place right around the corner, confidence that there will be a beautiful sunrise in the morning and an even prettier sunset at night. Learn about the landmark you call home, and you might end up finding a little confidence in a city full of new experiences.

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Uffizi: Innocent Bystanders

Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” Uffizi Gallery. Photo by the author.

By Kaly Nasiff

The Uffizi is known for its popular paintings, but the museum is also filled with hidden treasures. This is my reaction to a lesser known painting called “Massacre of the Innocents” by Marco Benefial.

Not much is known about Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” except that it was painted in the 1700s. When I saw it at the Uffizi Gallery I knew nothing about it. I had spent the afternoon being overwhelmed by the artworks that line nearly every inch of the Uffizi. The bright colors of this painting initially caught my attention, but upon further inspection, I realized that fiery women were fighting off savage men in order to save their children. I immediately fell in love with the determined faces of these women. They did not care that the men were larger and stronger than they were; they fought back with a passion that I found invigorating.

Looking around me, no one seemed to be as captivated with the painting as I was. I knew it was not one of the more famous paintings in the gallery, but I did not understand how anyone could ignore these women. Sure, they did not look like “Birth of Venus,” but to me they were more interesting. I was struck by the huge difference when I saw Sandro Botticelli’s Venus just minutes later. There was a crowd of people around the painting trying to get pictures of and with Venus. While it is a beautiful and famous painting, nothing about “Birth of Venus” made me feel what “Massacre of the Innocents” did. Venus is stunning but almost standoffish, and seems to be there to have others look at her. Meanwhile the women in Benefial’s painting were not placed in the painting for anyone’s benefit. They were meant to be appreciated for their determination rather than their beauty. I can only imagine and guess what Benefial was thinking when he painted these women, but I hope that he was trying to represent them as I saw them.

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Art: Spiritual Guards in Florence

By Camila Ibarra Gallego

On a sunny day in Firenze it’s hard to miss the bright, bronze sculptures sitting in Piazza della Signoria. But what might be even more shocking is how modern they look contrasted to the sculptures from centuries ago. Pieces from Jan Fabre’s exhibition can be found all over Florence. Find out why they’re here.

Many of you have probably been wondering what the heck a giant sea turtle is doing in the middle of Piazza della Signoria. That’s exactly what passed through my mind the morning I took my usual route to class and saw this big, shiny sculpture I had never seen before. So I decided to do some research to find out what this whole thing was about and share it with everyone who may be as flabbergasted as I was.

Jan Fabre (born in 1958) is a Belgian artist, playwright, stage director, choreographer, and designer. He is having an art exhibition here in Florence called Spiritual Guards. The exhibition is sponsored by the City of Florence, and it is be located between Forte Belvedere, Palazzo Vecchio, and Piazza della Signoria. It is said to be one of the most complex and complicated exhibitions in public spaces created by Jan Fabre. The exhibition will also host hundreds of works done by Fabre between 1978 to 2016 such as bronze sculptures, like the man riding the turtle, installations of beetle shells, wax sculptures, and documentary films of his performances.

The sculpture standing in the middle of the piazza is called Searching for Utopia. On top of the turtle sits a man holding on to reins. This man is the representation of the equestrian statue that was given to Grand Duke Cosimo I, a member of the Medici family and the Grand Duke of Tuscany, which was created by Giambologna.

As I stood there looking at the big turtle, I thought about how the artist paid attention to every detail on the turtle’s shell and on the man riding it. This sculpture is a cross between classical art and contemporary art.

I watched as people gathered around and took selfies with their selfie sticks. Many who just arrived in the city probably don’t realize that this statue has not been there for a while, and think that it is a piece of art that is part of the piazza. I see how they just stand in awe and admire the shiny gold piece of bronze, which looks a lot like Crush, the turtle from Finding Nemo. Children run around the installation and inspect it from every angle, probably wishing they could slide down the turtle’s shell or act as the captain of the ship.

Now every time you walk pass by this shiny, big sculpture and find a person who is just as confused as you were, you will be able to explain to some extent what it is about. If you are interested, Palazzo Vecchio is hosting a series of sculptures interacting with the frescoes and artifacts housed in some rooms to the public. Then check out the entire Fabre exhibition at Fort Belvedere. Fabre will be displayed in Florence until Oct 2. Spiritual Guards is a great art exhibition for those who love imagination and beauty.

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Lorenzo the Gondolier

Photo by GaborfromHungary via Morguefile.com

By Mikayla Rendall

Certain things and places become the cultural icons of a city. It’s enough to mention the David, Duomo, and Boboli Gardens for most travelers to immediately associate them to Florence; they’ve become by now not only icons of culture but also mass tourism. Venice, another highly visited Italian city, immediately conjures up Piazza San Marco, canals, gondolas, and lavish Carnevale celebrations. FUA student Mikayla Rendall took tourism a step further by not only going on a gondola ride but interviewing the gondoliere for his perspective as a Venetian local.

When did you become a gondolier?
I was born and raised in Venice and started giving gondola rides about eight years ago. I‘m now living on the other side of Venice because of the high expenses of living on the canal.

What made you decide to become a gondolier?
I love being on the water. Venice is beautiful and after living here for 33 years I knew this was something I want to do for a long time.

How did you learn this craft?
I learned as young man since my father had his own gondola but I got my own license to become a professional gondolier later on.

What year did the gondolas originate?
They are extremely old and go back to the 11^th century, but there have been many changes over time time to make them stronger and larger.

What are the gondolas made of?
Gondolas are a flat-bottomed boat made of many pieces and eight different types of wood. The oar of the gondola is made from beech and are made for the narrow canals in Venice and quick maneuvers.

How deep are the canals?
The grand canal is around 18-20 feet and most other canals are about 8 feet. When high tide comes sometimes we cannot provide rides because the water is too high and the boats don’t fit under the bridges. The water levels keep getting higher so now no one can live on the first floor of the apartments that are on the canal.

What does this mean for the future?
Gondola rides may not be available on city canals if water levels keep rising. We will not fit under the bridges because they are not high enough and the boat is tall in the front and back.

What is the busiest season for gondola rides?
Carnival in February is a busy time for tourists and in the spring. Gondola rides are requested solely by tourists, most locals don’t get on.

How often do you work and for how long?
During busy days I will work up to six times every week. I usually work ten-hour days. On the slower months, I work less so my schedule is always changing.

What is your favorite part about being a gondolier?
Getting to know people from all around the world and showing them the beauty of Venice.

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Exploring Culture Through Italian Cuisine

By Morgan O’Reilly

With clamped eyelids and the flicker of a burning candle, I contemplated my wish. As my life’s dream reemerged back into my conscious thought, my eyes flicked open, I peeked at the wax “10” in front of me, and I blew. Underneath, in place of a conventional birthday cake, lay a cannoli; I looked up from the red checkerboard table and saw my cheering family under the light of the Macaroni Grill sign. My wish was to travel; little did I know that I would be enjoying an authentic Italian meal in Florence only 10 years later.

Growing up, I had always loved food. I sat at dinner tables scooping mussels from shells and openly trying international cuisine. To this day, I actively search for new flavor combinations and cooking techniques. Despite my culinary openness, my perception of Italian cooking has changed dramatically since my arrival in Florence. I grew up with the mac and cheese, breadsticks, and spaghetti of Italian restaurant chains back home; and despite trying my hand in Italian home cooking, I really didn’t know what the “real thing” entailed. For me, I was coming to the land of bread, cheese, and pasta; and I was 100% fine with that.

Upon arrival, I aimlessly wandered Florence’s winding streets as I gripped my list of recommended panino and aperitivo places. After tasting some of Italy’s fresh pasta and coming to the harsh realization that meatballs are not an actual thing here, I realized how skewed my perception on this lifestyle was. My day to day life in town surprisingly never included the bread or pasta-induced food comas of the “Italian” food that I was accustomed to, and instead, I felt physically and mentally satisfied with what I was putting into my body. In fact, although the study abroad 15 has proved an irritating reality, I have never felt as good about the food I was consuming.

After a few weeks, once the initial excitement died down, I started to eat in more. Whether at the farmer’s market or grocery store, I slowly began appreciating the seasonality and freshness of what I was consuming. Although eating in does not seem like the optimal way to seize the day while abroad, learning to utilize fresh, regional ingredients in simple recipes gave me a deeper appreciation for the food I was eating and for Italian culture. My roommates and I have made everything from roasted vegetables to pork chops to shrimp with lemon asparagus; and the simple act of learning to work with seasonal, simple ingredients has shown me more about Italian culture than I would have ever expected.

Looking back, my experience with food while abroad and my deeper appreciation for what I eat has mirrored my sense of appreciation for all aspects of culture. Like expanding my knowledge on the slow food movement, biodynamic farming, and the third wave coffee movement through conversations with locals, I have learned to step out of my comfort zone and challenge my perception of Italy, travelling, and on life in general. This experience has opened my eyes to finding value and culture in the tiniest of details; whether it be a tablespoon of olive oil, my daily walk past the Santa Croce, or a genuine conversation with friends from around the world. Above all else, studying abroad has taught me to openly seek out culture in every aspect of living, and it is something I cannot wait to apply beyond the walls of the city I now call my home.

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The Intricacies of Life in a Renaissance City

By Leanora Karnath

White marble, red and green lines of color, ornate details covering every inch of its facade, copper ball protruding into the sky. Before arriving for the semester, I knew of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, better known as the Duomo of Florence, but little about its historical or cultural significance within Italy as a European country. My feelings towards one of Florence’s most popular landmarks have evolved throughout my time abroad.

When I first saw the church, I was astounded by its massive size. I strained my neck, scanning the entire length of the front side with hungry eyes. I saw the Duomo in its entirety– the lines of color, the white marble, and the large wooden doors.

After the thrill of the first sighting, I learned that people use the church as a meeting point which frustrated me. Whenever someone said to meet by the Duomo, my body grew tense. Where? I thought. This thing is too big.

I soon became accustomed to walking past the Duomo each day. I hadn’t thought much about the church after my first month abroad other than wishing it wasn’t my usual route to class when flocks of tourists visited, making my route longer than usual.

As I stepped away from the Duomo, I realized its functional purpose. When I would become lost around Florence, I simply walked down a few streets and waited to see the Duomo’s copper ball and spherical top. Though I was aware of the Duomo’s presence, I solely viewed it for its practical use.

My indifference began to shift right before my parents’ visit halfway through the semester. Because of my dad’s interest in architecture and history, he read a book about the Duomo before his arrival entitled Brunelleschi’s Dome: How a Renaissance Genius Reinvented Architecture. He asked me, “Did you know they didn’t even use buttresses to support the weight of the Duomo? And that the copper ball fell off in the 1500’s?” I didn’t. I felt ashamed that I had failed to learn much about a monument that stands only five minutes away from my apartment.

As the lines became longer for everything in April, I knew it was time I climbed the Duomo. I purchased my ticket, woke up early on a Wednesday morning, and waited in line. As I began walking up the steep steps, a rush of energy overwhelmed my body. I thought of all the people who did the same hundreds of years ago, the ones who dedicated their lives to create such a beautiful combination of art and architecture to create a place for worship. And, now I was climbing to the top.

Later that same day, I entered the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and marveled at the displays and the information that accompanied them. It was fascinating to learn about the comprehensive history behind such an influential monument that I was lucky to see on a daily basis. I stepped out of the museum and the Duomo greeted me; my mouth immediately curled into a smile. Wow, I thought.

As I reflect on the semester, I have realized that the Duomo isn’t simply one singular piece of architecture that can be absorbed and processed from one sighting. It’s comprised of many pieces and the tiniest of details: the distinct expressions on the face of numerous statues, the marbled spirals in the windows, the gold streaks of the paintings. I neglected to see all of these intricacies when I first arrived.

These intricacies have not only been present in the Duomo’s structure but also my daily life in Florence: the scent of finocchiona floating in the air as I pass a panino shop, the familiar faces of street musicians, a small piece of colorful street art poking out from the ground.

The church that was once a nuisance to walk around has become a reassuring point of reference, a sign that I had returned home after a long day or weekend of traveling, and a sense of stability in a semester that presented new experiences and challenges each week. During my last few weeks in Florence, I take a little extra time to find a small detail that had previously gone unnoticed. It never fails.

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What You Really Need to Know About Gelato

By Leanora Karnath and Morgan O’Reilly

Gelato can be found in virtually every street corner in Florence. As a Florentine delicacy, locals and visitors stroll the streets with a cone in hand no matter the season. Over the years, because of its touristic popularity, traditional, quality gelato has become more and more of a rarity. We sat down with Vetulio Bondi, owner of I Gelati del Bondi and president of the Florence Gelato Association, to gain insight into recognizing quality, authentic gelato in Florence. Bondi has also taught a gelato making course at Apicius. We’ve narrowed down our interview with him into 3 simple steps to keep handy when trying out new gelaterie.

1. Read the Ingredients

Fresh, authentic gelato should not need any preservatives or extra fat. The main ingredient should be fresh milk and the sugar used should lead to a smooth, “warm” gelato, as opposed to a sweeter, colder treat that was popular in the 80s.

Bondi also attributes his high quality gelato to his strong relationships with the hazelnut, pistachio, and produce farmers that he works with.

2. Order In-Season Flavors

It is easy to overlook the environmental difference of ordering mango sorbet in the winter as opposed to pear. Bondi prefers serving in-season, local flavors to cut down on food miles. “In Europe, we try to follow the seasons, so in the summer, it is much better to eat the peach sorbet than the mango sorbet because the mangos will be coming from Brazil, so it can cause pollution and peach sorbet, melon sorbet, watermelon sorbet, and plum sorbet is amazing.” If you want to know what is in season when, here is a list.

3. “When You See a Mountain, Turn Around”

Like any tourist destination, flashy fakes are everywhere. When looking for authentic gelato shops, steer clear of the mountain-high, neon window displays. These are often made with artificial flavors, colors, oil, and fat. You want to spend your time seeking out neutral colored, simpler displays. Some places will cover the gelato with lids, which usually means they made it that morning.

If you have time, stop by I Gelati del Bondi. Our personal favorites are his peach, salted caramel, pistachio, hazelnut chocolate, or cherry.

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Schiacciata Throwdown!

Schiacciata sandwich in Florence. Photo by the authors.

By Deborah Glasso, Leanora Karnath, Morgan O’Reilly

Schiacciata is a typical flatbread of the Tuscany region used to prepare panini. In English, the word translates to “crushed” or “flattened.” If you’ve lived in the Tuscany region, unsalted bread is probably what first comes to mind when thinking of bread products. In contrast, schiacciata is sprinkled with coarse salt grains, giving consumers a burst of flavor coupled with other ingredients in a panino. Made with flour, yeast, water, salt, and olive oil, traditional schiacciata should be crispy, but not hard. Also, the olive oil should not produce a greasy feeling but be enough to complement the mix of ingredients.

After learning about schiacciata in Florence, we decided to extend our research one step further with some tastings and then compare our findings.

Morgan – soft or crispy?

After living in Florence for three months, I have fallen in love with Schiacciata. From trying too many places than I would like to admit, I realized I prefer a crispier crust with a fluffy center as opposed to a thinner, chewier flatbread I usually get at All’Antico Vinaio. My personal favorite spot is Sandwichic because they use just enough olive oil and salt to make the flatbread crispy and flavorful. The Oil Shoppe also deserves a mention for their softer, circular schiacciata that I also enjoy.

SandwiChic: Via San Gallo, 3
Al’Antico Vinaio: Via dei Neri, 74/R

Lea – olive oil in each bite

After trying many different panino shops, I found Due Sorsi e un Boccone (“two sips and a bite”) which has become my favorite place for a quick bite. I was happy to discover the consumers were mostly Italian which has always been helpful to seek out local spots. I love how the schiacciata is crispy but not too hard as I’ve tried some places where the schiacciata can scrape the roof of my mouth, leaving an unpleasant sensation. I also view the schiacciata as characteristic of the traditional staple because of its olive oil you can taste with each bite. The taste does not distract from any of the other ingredients but enhances the overall experience of eating a panino and indulging your taste buds.

Due Sorsi e un Boccone: Via degli Alfani, 105

Deborah – great ingredients, great sandwiches

Being a Florentine, I believe that All’Antico Vinaio is one of the few places that offers good street food. The schiacciata is crushed with sbriciolona, a cured meat with fennel seeds, so we can say it is a must-try in Florence.

The Prosciutteria is another great place to try this traditional Tuscan favorite, just a few doors down from All’Antico Vinaio. Vinaino Di Parte Guelfa also offers tasty sandwiches with typical Tuscan and Florentine ingredients.

Vinaino Di Parte Guelfa: Via Val di Lamona, 6
La Prosciutteria: Via dei Neri, 54r

Our Findings

From recommendations of professors and other locals, our tastings led us to the discovery that despite schiacciata’s status as a Tuscan staple, various places prepare the bread in different ways. While some may be very crispy on the outside, others are softer which results in a more chewy bite. The “best” panino shop is subjective because people enjoy their breads in different ways. The staple has evolved and each panino shop has their own take on how to prepare it.

What’s your favorite place?

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