A Culinary Tour of Florence: Beyond Traditional Italian Cuisine

Exploring the Diverse Food Scene of Florence, from Bistecca to Bao

written by Connor McHugh for SPEL: Journalism

Everyone knows that cultures are defined and characterized greatly by their food. When you think of any given country, your mind almost certainly first goes to the local cuisine of that region. Italy specifically is often considered to have some of the best cuisine on the planet.  However, it is important to understand that even in a country like Italy, the local food is incredibly diverse. We are going to take a look at the many different sides of Florence food and where its place in the overall society sits.

First, it would be blasphemous to not start this with Bistecca alla Fiorentina. The absolute staple and most popular dish of Florence is a sirloin cut of meat that is taken from a young steer or heifer. It is always served rare, as is the tradition and truly the only way to experience it. This steak was one of the best I have ever had, served with grilled potatoes and a salad. By keeping the beef rare, you are able to maintain all of the natural juices and flavors mixed with the loads of salt and seasoning on top. Due to its technical grilling requirements and need to be aged for over two weeks, patrons have to order at least 2 kilos of the meat. So next time you and your gym partner are looking for a good post workout meal, Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the best option.

If you walk around Florence’s city centers, you will be met with endless pizzerias and trattorias which of course serve traditional Italian food. Venture a little farther out from the tourist areas, and you can be met with an entirely different world of amazing food options. For example, the thriving traditional Chinese cuisine of Florence. I was pleasantly surprised about the quality of the Chinese food and its authenticity. After a few orders of boazi and dumplings, I was extremely impressed. The outside was the perfect amount of savory and the texture was soft. The pork filling topped it off with its freshness and seasoning. What really sold the deal, however, was the duck rice. It is not often to see duck rice done correctly as many places don’t put much effort into their fried rice varieties. The rice was most definitely 24 hours old (the correct way to make fried rice) and the duck was cooked perfectly. It’s safe to say that I have eaten Chinese food in Florence more than pizza.

Of course, no European country would be complete without its local kebab spots. The kebab is a dish that can be seen all over the world but is uniquely different at each place. With roots originally in Turkey, the kebab is a simple dish that has an infinite amount of combinations. My kebab was a relatively traditional one, containing shawarma from a doner, and various fresh vegetables and sauces. The two new things that I especially enjoyed about this particular kebab were the jalapeños and fries in the wrap. Of all the different places I have gotten kebabs I have never seen jalapeños as an option. I always make sure to get every topping wherever I go to ensure that I am eating the food as it was truly intended. The jalapeños were a great touch as they added a certain level of acidity to the dish that sometimes kebabs are lacking. I was also surprised to take a bite and find that there were fries inside the wrap. It was an interesting yet welcome addition to the traditional kebab. Sometimes kebabs can be soggy and floppy due to the excess amount of sauce and wet ingredients, but the fries soaked a lot of that up making for an extremely firm and crisp kebab.

An underrated and often overlooked cuisine in European countries is Mexican. In The United States, you can’t go two blocks without seeing a hole in the wall family-owned Mexican restaurant (or at least a Chipotle). Mexican food in Florence needs to be sought out directly. So that’s what I did, because I cannot survive more than a week without a good burrito. I found a burrito stand and had to see what it was all about. I was both surprised and unsurprised. My hopes were not extremely high, but I was not very impressed with the finished product. My spicy chicken burrito was not spicy at all, which surprised me. Also, I am not sure if this is what I should expect in all tortilla wrapped dishes but there were also fries in my burrito. While I am all for innovation, fries in my Mexican burrito is not something I need. The rice was underwhelming and slightly overcooked. The beans and the chicken were both cooked nicely and tasted pleasant enough. Most likely not something that I would order again unfortunately.

As my first three weeks in Florence conclude, I am proud to have tried a multitude of different cuisines and food options. I know that with the eleven weeks I have remaining, I will find the best of each food that Florence has to offer. All of these different cultures are able to spread and be appreciated through their food, and I feel it is a civic duty to be as diverse in my food choices as possible. My taste buds are especially glad about my goal of being a world citizen.

Farm to Table Focus: Vivanda

Photo courtesy of FUA
Photo courtesy of FUA

By Anastasia Finney

A typical student living in Florence has likely already seen many of the famous sights, tasted their fair share of Italian food, and interacted with a good amount of locals. However, classes at FUA often include field learning sessions around that city in order to take students off of the usual pathways and into experiences they might have otherwise missed.

During the “An Introduction to Italian Food Traditions,” taught this past fall semester by Prof. Cecilia Ricci, students often incorporated real food experiences into their learning. Rather than simply receiving long lectures about the food and culture of Italy, the class conducted tastings, cooking projects, and visits to relevant food locations in the city. One such visit took place at a local restaurant in order to analyze fresh pasta. Before embarking to Vivanda, the students first learned about the differences between and characteristics of fresh and dry pasta through a lecture component in class.

Vivanda is a small and cozy restaurant located in Oltrarno, on the other side of the Arno River. It prides itself on organic ingredients, natural wines, fresh pasta production happening right in the restaurant, and options that can please meat-eaters, vegetarians, vegans, and gluten-free people alike. At the restaurant, the class was given three types of pasta to taste: gorgonzola gnocchi, traditional spaghetti, and ricotta and spinach ravioli. They were also served Arialdo wine with the meal.

Student Nick Tyndall shared that the tasting helped his understanding of Italian pasta traditions. “The restaurant had an authentic and inviting ambience, consistent with the best establishments I’ve visited in Florence,” said Tyndall. “We got to see how the staff made the fresh pasta and learned about the company’s food philosophy. The pasta was probably the best I’ve ever had.”

The class had time to enjoy and experience both the food and setting, while also listening to the owner talk about the restaurant. Professor Ricci also talked with the class during the visit about the food tasted and the way it paired with the wine. The students were encouraged to think critically about what they were consuming, in regard to production, presentation, and longstanding Italian traditions. Naturally, the group also got to enjoy the conviviality of delicious food too.

Experiencing a guided tasting in close contact with industry professionals gives a different perspective to daily activities that we all experience, such as trying new restaurants. “I wouldn’t have even known this restaurant existed without this class,” said Tyndall. “Now I definitely want to go back for a full meal!”

Vivanda
Via Santa Monaca 7 (between Pz. S. Spirito and Pz. del Carmine)
For further details visit the restaurant’s website.

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