A Magical Holiday Season at the Santa Croce Market

written by Makayla Sims

Just in time for winter, Florence’s holiday markets have been set up across the city. Here, residents and tourists alike can see the accumulation of different cultures, foods, crafts, and cheers within these stalls. The Santa Croce market takes place in the square of the Basilica di Santa Croce, with German-style stalls selling all different types of things.

The first place I make a quick pit stop at is this stall shown in the image below, where they sell little ceramic pieces. Here I take a look at the small houses and mushrooms that people often put in their garden, however, that’s not what I’m most excited about. Rather, I take a look at the bells that they are selling. Each one is engraved and painted with different patterns. I don’t know if they’re meant to be, but I know that my mom would love one of these to put on her Christmas tree. We have a long-standing tradition of collecting ornaments from every place we travel to, and since this is my first time away from home for the holidays, I want her to know that I am thinking of her. 

After I pay the vendor and leave the stall, a drink hub with three steaming pots catches my eye. I walked over there expecting hot chocolate but was instead introduced to an Italian holiday staple, mulled wine. I decided to buy a cup. One, because it’s freezing, and two, because it smells really good. This is my first time buying this drink, and when I take a sip I can understand its popularity. It is mildly fruity and mildly sweet, but the taste of the wine is still there. By the time I finish my cup, I’m warmed, the sweetness of the wine and temperature working in tandem.

Afterward, I make my rounds through the remaining stalls. There is this stall that sells the most beautiful paper lanterns, but they only take cash and I don’t have any on me. After some looking, I decided to head home for the day and revisit this market later in the day. 

As I’m leaving though I’m stopped by the muffled sound of a beautiful strong voice filling the air.  I removed the headphones I had been wearing, which had Christmas music blasting, and was greeted by an opera singer.  She isn’t wearing anything fancy,  just a winter coat and curly hair,  but she sings like no other person I’ve heard before. It’s gorgeous. 

Later, I came back with my friend and we decided to window shop some more. She ends up getting a bratwurst and I go with the trusted potato spiral that I often get at my hometown’s local fair. They aren’t the same thing, that’s for sure. But, the taste of fried potatoes on a stick reminds me of home and how I’m leaving soon. I also end up getting a cream puff; one about the size of my fist and it is absolutely delectable. When we sit down to eat our food on the wooden benches they have supplied, she and I are separated by an accordion and trumpet player, who goes up to some customers asking for spare change. As I near the end of my residency here in Florence, I think I’m starting to realize that that’s what I’m going to miss most about Florence. The music.

Navigating No Meat in Florence

Written by: Isla Herring

When I stopped eating meat at 11 years old, I never anticipated the challenges it would hand me while in a foreign country. As someone studying abroad who speaks limited Italian, shopping for food and ordering at restaurants is a difficulty I did not quite prepare myself for. 

Italy is commonly recognized for its food, whether it is pizza, pasta, cheese, sandwiches, or soup, the list can go on. I have always heard amazing recommendations about food from Italy and it was something that excited me when looking into studying abroad. Once I arrived here and was faced with menus in languages that I could not understand, I began to worry about how I would manage my diet in Florence. 

My first night in Florence was an experience that has lingered in my head for all of my meals since. I was attempting to read the menu and decipher the codes for allergies that are provided at the end of the page. I saw a number that told me if dishes contained fish, a number for eggs, and many numbers for other allergies and sensitivities, yet I saw no indication that meals contained meat. I decided that my best option would be pasta because I was famished and had hoped that it would be simple enough to understand if it contained meat. 

When the server set my plate down in front of me, my stomach immediately dropped. What I had ordered, thinking it was just a version of a red sauce, contained lumps of meat that I didn’t recognize. I told myself not to panic because this was just a meal, but from the stress of my travels, the lack of food in my body, and being in a place where the servers hardly understood me, I did indeed panic. 

I said to my roommates once the staff had walked away that my food had meat in it and I did not know what to do. Everyone looked at me with a face of concern as they could read the overwhelming emotions coming over me  in that moment.

“Trade with me,” was the first response that I heard. Luckily for me, my roommate ordered a meatless pasta dish and offered to switch with me so that I could get some food in my body. I knew then that going forward I had to make a conscious effort to improve my understanding of the language and vegetarian options while abroad. 

My first step  was to search for how to say, “without meat,” in Italian, which I learned is, “senza carne.” I knew this term would come in handy for me going forward. I also searched for, “fish,” which is, “pesce,” and practiced the pronunciation of these terms. 

After some basic terminology lessons, I wanted to find more places in Florence that were vegetarian or vegan friendly. Although now I felt confident that I could avoid meat, I still wanted meals that were more than just a noodle or a bread. I wanted to find options that still offered me protein and vegetables. 

I did some basic web browsing to see some places that were close enough for me and decently affordable for a student on a budget. The first place that I found was called “#Raw Vegan Firenze,” a restaurant that offers a variety of vegetarian and vegan options for a reasonable price. They have many juice options as well and focus on clean and healthy ingredients. 

The next place that I found was “Brac,” which offers Mediterranean food. It can be slightly pricey, but has many accommodations and vegetarian options for more of a sit-down dinner experience. They are recognized for their vegetarian and vegan options, along with gluten-free accommodations. 

The last place that I want to mention is one that I discovered on my own when strolling around the city. It is called “Shake Cafe,” and it has many options for acai bowls, salads, and wraps that I very much enjoyed. They focus on healthy cuisine, sustainability, and high quality ingredients. The place is very cozy and welcoming and the staff were very understanding and kind. I ordered a falafel wrap that came with onions, beets, greens, hummus, and a lemon vinaigrette.  

I found that there are many places here that offer vegetarian meals that are more than just a salad or a carb. Some quick research immediately made me feel much more comfortable in this new city I call home. I began to make a list in my notes of places that I discovered were viable options for my diet. This way, when I’m in a pinch for food, I know I have places to go to on hand now.

I also did some more research on quality vegetarian protein sources and began to compile a list of these foods as well so I could search for them at restaurants, and grocery stores when cooking for myself. The top searches were foods like, seitan, tofu, lentils, beans, sprouted grains, oats, nuts, and eggs. These have become foods that I focus on when preparing meals and dining out to ensure that my diet is staying balanced with nutrients and substance. 

Overall, the transition to new food is a challenge for everyone, and for those who have dietary restrictions, the process can be even more strenuous. My advice is to do some research and stay optimistic because there are people everywhere who share your same struggles, regardless of language and location. 

Buy Fresh Buy Local

Photo by the author

By Shelby Olson 

The Sant’Ambrogio Market is an indoor and outdoor market filled with fresh meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables and is a great place to do your weekly grocery shopping if you want to shop locally, inexpensively, and keep up with what is in season this month.

There are many great supermarkets throughout Florence to buy fruits, vegetables, meat, and fish, but you are not always sure where your products are sourced considering supermarkets worldwide favor industrialized products. Luckily, Florence is home to a lot of great local markets that sell all these products that are guaranteed fresh, inexpensive, and locally sourced.

One of the most important things to know when visiting a local market is, what is in season and what is not. During the month of July you can find many fresh fruits and vegetables to add to your pantry. The fruits in season for the month of July are apricots, blackberries, cherries, figs, loquats, melons, nectarines, raspberries, plums, strawberries, and watermelon. The vegetables in season for the month of July are aubergine, arugula (rocket), basil, garlic, lettuce, spanish, swiss chard, turnip greens, beans, carrots, cucumber, fennel, green beans, mint, peas, taccole green beans, tomato, and zucchini.

FUA’s Italian language faculty, Francesca Peruzzi, recommends the Sant’Ambrogio Market because all of the products are fresh and prices are cheaper than most especially when shopping for six people. Francesca goes to Sant’Ambrogio once a week and here’s what she shared when I asked her what’s usually inside her grocery bag:
• Proteins: meat, fish
• Grains and vegetables: bread, carrots, salad, chou, spinach, zucchini
• Fruit: apples, bananas, apricots

I recently had the chance to visit the Sant’Ambrogio Market and after prior research on what is in season, I could tell that Florence takes pride in selling the most fresh and seasonal fruits and vegetables possible. The inside of the market is packed with meat, fish, and bread vendors and the outside of the market is home to the fruit and vegetable vendors. As I was walking around, I decided to purchase apples from a fruit vendor and was astonished that not only were they cheap, but the taste was incredible. In the summer, my favorite thing to eat is a large bowl with an assortment of different fruits. With the fresh produce I found at the market, I am excited to make my favorite summer meal and make Florence feel more like home.

After my visit, I decided that you cannot beat cheap prices and fresh items and that this would be my new stop to get groceries for the last few weeks I have in Florence.

How to Visit:

Sant’Ambrogio Market: Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 50122 Firenze
Monday-Saturday 7AM-2PM

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