Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio has my heart

Photo by Author

By Gregg Casazza

Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio is a small park just a short walk away from Santa Croce, and I am absolutely in love with it.

There is something truly magical about the parks in Florence. Perhaps it is the fact that you so seldom see grass in the ancient stone city, or the fact that when sunlight streams through the tall slender trees, golden light dances all around the square. The soothing refuge these parks offer from the hustle-and-bustle of the city is much appreciated, and not lost on me one bit. However, finding one of these hidden treasures can be very hard for a casual traveler, and often the parks that CAN be found are just as busy as the rest of the city. So I found it rather shocking that a place as serene and inviting as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio was only a quick walk from the city center.

This park and its surrounding neighborhoods hardly feel like they are a part of the Historic Center of Florence, and if not for the map, I wouldn’t believe it myself. The park is nestled right next to Viale Antonio Gramsci, and the walls of the old city. D’Azeglio is the best of both worlds, an area that feels different from a city, and more like a small town that you would find in a remote village in Italy, but still very close to the center of Florence. As such there are numerous luxury brands, and expensive places to visit in this area as well, including the Four Seasons hotel and its ancient Renaissance garden.

The neighborhood is a mixture of stately apartments, and small parks the likes of which stand in clear contrast to the rampant tourism and chaos of nearby areas such as Santa Croce and Palazzo Vecchio. Children run through the playground free of cares, like loose cannons running headlong past their friends who try to touch the sky on the swings. A group of boys play soccer, occasionally kicking their ball over the fence. Nobody goes to get it, they simply yell for their ball and wait, knowing one of the locals will happily assist. Near the center of the park is a beautiful carrousel. The small green ride lights up, and plays a cheerful tune which wafts through the air in the park, a few children go round and round, you can almost hear their smiles.

Most striking about the park however, is the community which uses the public space as their meeting grounds. Dog walkers stop to talk while their dogs play amongst each other, a daily activity for some. Older men stop to chat with their grocery bags stuffed with fresh produce bought from the nearby Sant Ambrogio market, or perhaps a delicious calzoni from Rocco. Couples sit on the benches, sharing an umbrella as they sit for hours, they wave to their friends and neighbours as they pass by on their bikes.

Named after Massimo Taparelli the Marquess of Azeglio (commonly called Massimo d’Azeglio) this park represents a lot for many people. D’Azeglio, who famously fought against the Austrians for Italian liberation, was also a prime minister and the leader of the movement that advocated an Italian national revival. His legacy is remembered in parks such as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio.

There are so many places in Florence that are strikingly beautiful, but seem a bit hollow, like they lack the soul of the city. This is not true of Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio which seems utterly lived in, and yet still completely magical. I know that this park has my heart, and will have yours too.

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A Local & Two Foreigners: Our Favorite Places in Florence

Photo by the authors
Photo by the authors

By Amber Wright, Deborah Galasso, Jess Pitocco

Our mission this week between the three of us, Amber Wright, Deborah Galasso, and Jess Pitocco, was to write down the places that best symbolize or represent Florence, Italy. It proved to be pretty difficult; there are thousands of unique bars, monuments, churches and museums to visit in the city. It could take years to explore all that Florence has to offer! Even so, from each of our own perspectives, domestic and abroad, we chose our favorite spots in Florence.

Florence from the perspective of a local, Deborah Galasso, is full of art, culture, and cappuccino. Her favorite parks, restaurants and artistics centers that, in her opinion, best describe the culture and feeling of Florence, Italy:

  1. Villa Bardini is a magical place where I go frequently. Today, it is an exhibition center that hosts temporary shows. Villa Bardini is a beautiful garden setting, and can be visited today separately with the same ticket that you would purchase at the Boboli Gardens.
  2. Opera di Firenze is another particular place I visit as a fan of art, theater, and Florence’s musical works. I like the unusual and modern structure, and the theater’s interior is spacious and gorgeously decorated.
  3. I always go to Anfiteatro Romano alle Cascine because I love art. This amphitheater located in the Cascine Park, and takes us back to past times. It’s a historic space for indoor and outdoor events in Florence, the best ones are featured in the summer.
  4. Giardino del Drago, near Via Bolognese and a part of the Giardiano dell’Orticultura, is a relaxing place that makes you admire the beauty of Florence from another point of view. The distinctive and artistic statue in the shape of a dragon is at the center, and gives the garden its name. It is a place I visited as a child and remember fondly to this day.
  5. Chiosco is a small bar/kiosk along the Arno near St. Niccolò. It’s great especially in the summer, because you can observe the river while having aperitivo. The bar is close to the Arno, is full of lights, and has a fun atmosphere.”

Florence from our perspective, Amber and Jess, two study abroad students, is a bit different. These five places represent Florence for us because they are landmarks to help us get home, great food and shopping, and places that make Florence feel like home since we’ve arrived.

  1. We pass Piazza Gaetano Salvemini every day on our way to class at FUA’s J School. Whether in the morning or at night, there are always a myriad of characters in the Piazza, from tourists to locals. The old men play chess near the bike racks everyday, and the dog owners are followed by their pooches without leashes. There are helpful places on the edges of the palazzo: an ATM, Tabacchi, and 99 cent store. It is a place where everyone gathers for errands and meals!
  2. Sant’Ambrogio Market is the most authentic market we have found in Florence, and conveniently one of us lives across the street from it. We love ordering a cappuccino at the bar inside, while listening to impromptu performances of the violinist and cellist in the center of the market. This indoor-outdoor market is cheaper than Central Market and offers everything from clothing, antiques, to any type of produce and food you could imagine – a gem for foodies!
  3. La Milkeria is a small boutique coffee shop on Borgo degli Albizi. Every so often when we’re missing home, we go in there and get a good ol’ bagel. It’s our little secret how often we go in there to get a taste of home!
  4. Walking east on that street, you’ll come to Piazza di San Pier Maggiore. This square used to be the home of the Church of San Pier Maggiore. While it no longer stands, the reconstructed arches of the church still outline the square. There is a fresh produce stand in front of the arches that is the perfect place to grab a piece of fruit on your way to class. We love stopping in this square to imagine what it used to look like!
  5. Lastly, our favorite part of Florence are our own streets. We walk home and every time we stroll down our roads, we stumble upon a new shop or new restaurant. We continue to discover a mix of small boutiques, local restaurants, and vintage shops in our own corner of Florence. As we get closer to our homes, street art and familiar places welcome us home – our favorite places in Florence.

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