Transportation in Florence: Trading Cars for Cobblestones

written by Ashlyn Roselle

Florence, Italy, widely regarded as the heart of the Renaissance, is a city where the past is not only preserved, but woven into everyday life. The tightly packed cobblestone streets, and historic buildings are unlike the sprawling cities many American students are used to. For those studying abroad, Florence allows cultural immersion, but not without some practical adjustments, especially when it comes to transportation.

Most American cities were designed around the car, Florence however was built centuries ago for pedestrian traffic, carts, and horses. Today, the city’s historic layout remains largely intact, protected by strict preservation laws. The timeless charm that remains in Florence today is beautiful, but creates an unexpected challenge for students abroad. There is a large question mark in everyday life: how do I move through a city that was designed for another era?

Florence’s current layout is rooted in its medieval and Renaissance past. The narrow, winding streets and densely packed buildings are from a city that was never intended for modern day cars. Due to this, much of central Florence is a limited traffic zone (ZTL), where only residents and permitted vehicles are permitted to drive. Public transportation consists of buses and trams, where they travel mostly the outer zones of the city. The inner city is primarily navigated on foot or by bicycle.

For students from the US, where cars are a central part of everyday life, this can be a major shift.

Maddie Oberly, a current FUA student from Connecticut says, “In Connecticut we rely greatly on cars to get us from place to place. However here it was solely on walking and the public transportation systems like the bus.”

The transition can be jarring, but it’s also one of the most rewarding aspects of studying abroad in Florence. Students are able to truly immerse themselves in the city and soak up their surroundings of Renaissance facades and hidden piazzas while strolling to class. The lack of reliance on cars encourages deeper exploration and a more intimate connection to a place.

Another current FUA student, Trace McCament reveals his experience with transportation in Florence thus far. “The amount of walking definitely surprised me, but it’s been super nice to walk around and explore. Before dinner, it’s easy to just stroll around, read menus, and people watch, which is fun.”

Students, like Trace, soon discover that Florence’s compact design works in their favor. Most major landmarks, cafes, apartments, and restaurants are within walkable distance. What initially seems like an inconvenience becomes an unexpected part of the adventure.

Bikes and scooters are immensely popular amongst residents of Florence. There are designated parking zones for both and they are always packed. There are also rentable electric scooters and bikes for tourists, providing modern solutions for longer distances.

The pedestrian-friendly architecture of Florence doesn’t just change how students move, but changes how they live. Walking everywhere promotes physical activity, lowers stress, and encourages spontaneous interactions within the city. The benefits of walking 10,000+ steps per day are incredible, which most individuals struggle to do while in the US if they are not creating intentional time for activity. Many students report feeling healthier, more independent, and more connected to their environment after just a few weeks.

The environmental impact is real. With limited access to cars and a focus on sustainable transport, Florence experiences less traffic, lower air pollution, and an overall more pleasant atmosphere. These conditions create a safer, more accessible environment for students to thrive while abroad.

Studying abroad in Florence offers more than academic credit, it offers a new perspective on urban living. Students gain firsthand insight into how city design influences lifestyle and community. Compared to the wide streets, long commutes, and car dependency of many American cities, Florence demonstrates an older, but highly effective model of urban planning.

That contrast often sparks reflection.

Maddie Oberly admits, “I have honestly loved the exercise aspect of walking and it has been weird to get used to the bus system… but with patience it’s really easy to figure out and utilize in ways that can benefit us as students.”

Adapting to Florence’s pedestrian-focused lifestyle is easier with a few tips:

  1. Plan Ahead – Walking and biking takes time, so build buffer time into your schedule.
  2. Comfort Matters – Invest in a good pair of walking shoes, those 20,000+ step days will sneak up on you!
  3. Learn the Local Routes – Familiarize yourself with your walk to class and apartment for easy navigation.
  4. Embrace the Pace – Allow yourself to slow down and experience the city instead of rushing through it.
  5. Try the Rental Bikes – It’s okay to have a little adventure every now and then, just don’t hit anyone!

Florence’s architecture has preserved history and now shapes modern life. For students abroad, that means adapting to a new way of getting around. It requires you to learn how design and environment influence everything, from mobility to mindset.

By stepping into Florence’s streets, students also step into a bigger conversation about sustainability, community, and how cities can be built around people instead of machines. This is a lesson that reaches far beyond the classroom and one they’ll carry with them long after the semester ends.

Are you guys Nazi’s?

written by Lilly Vergnes

This blog feature is an exclusive bonus installment to our Spring issue of Blending Magazine. After you finish reading, be sure to explore the rest of the magazine online—just follow this link to download the full Spring 2025 edition:
https://jschoolfua.com/images/BM/BM_151.pdf

Lorenzo Carollo grew up in the northern part of Italy, in a small town near Verona. He followed the typical life path of an Italian teen, adding some illegal graffiti work in the mix. After high school, he went on to study History in Padova. You might wonder what kind of hobbies and activities one gets up to in rural northern Italy. For Carollo, he did not have to look far. He works in a mechanical factory, takes an interest in medieval history, plays the bagpipe, and in recent years has become a Skinhead. He has his hair cut short, wears boots and bomber jackets and goes to as many concerts as he can. This is also where I met him, at a concert at the Centro Popolare Autogestito (CPA) in Florence. I personally go to the CPA for its cheap beer and good music. Little did I know, that night’s concert was being played and attended by Skinheads. My first thought and question when I heard ‘Skinhead’ was, Are you guys Nazi’s? They all laughed, and Carollo started to explain the Skinhead movement to me over the loud music. 

Skinheads originated in Britain in the ‘60s. They were primarily influenced by Mod and the Jamaican Rudeboy subcultures, with a working-class pride and rejection of conservatism at the time. The original Skins had a lot of influences from Jamaican music and culture, such as Ska and Reggae. Later, in the ‘80s, a Punk aspect was introduced to the movement, with the working class Punk Rock Oi!. This was then mixed with the Jamaican genres from the previous generation, which was referred to as 2Tone. If these are the origins of the movement, then why do we only now associate Skinheads with white supremacists? 

During that same time in the ‘80s, the movement split up into two very distinct directions: far-right and left/apolitical. Britain’s political climate was precarious, and far-right supporters saw the Skinhead subculture as an opportunity to express their ideology. This spread fast, and by the ‘90s, neo-Nazi and fascist groups existed all over Europe and North America. 

photo by Lilly Vergnes

This is the image we still associate Skinheads with today in the mainstream mindset. However, a reaction to these right-winged groups quickly started. The movement known as Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice (SHARP) was created as an anti-fascist and anti-racist group. Today, they are considered an extension of the original Skinhead culture, the ‘real’ Skins. Skinheads completely deny the fascist groups as part of the movement, even refusing to call them ‘skinheads’ but ‘boneheads’ instead. The Skinheads main ideals are inherently left-wing, although some of them identify as apolitical.

Carollo first became familiar with Skinheads through some people he knew from high school. As a teen, he was interested in forming his own opinions on political matters. He was approached by some guys from a far-right Skinhead group in Vicenza, who wanted him to potentially join their group. After listening to some of the things they had to say, Carollo decided that their opinions did not align with his morals at all. He had a good friend who was black, whom he knew to be a good person, so he thought: how could it be true that all black people were bad? He made up his mind and began associating himself with people from the anti-fascist side of the movement: Skins from a smaller group called the Reggae Lads. Their ideas and morals lined up much more with his own, as he explained, “I could never understand why you would decide to hate. If you see a black man walking on the street who is smiling, you can’t be happy for him just because of the color of his skin? This is so stupid to me.” 

As for myself, I never realized that Skinheads are not what we see in the mainstream media. In reality, it seems like a subculture like many others, with their music, fashion and ideals, even ideals that most people could get behind. They are just as much, if not more, against neo-Nazi’s and facism as anyone else. In some way, they are the ones that are trying to make a positive change in the world.

Hidden but Not a Secret: The Underground World of Mercato delle Cascine

A historic open-air market where Florentines gather to sell and find clothes, food, household items, and anything else you could possibly imagine. There is a vintage presence along with a modernized vision occurring here.

written by Meredith Simpson, Amelia Mora, Alaura Cross, Sabrina Harris & Katie Brooks

This blog feature is an exclusive bonus installment to our Spring issue of Blending Magazine. After you finish reading, be sure to explore the rest of the magazine online—just follow this link to download the full Spring 2025 edition:
https://jschoolfua.com/images/BM/BM_151.pdf

As you enter the 1.5-kilometer-long market, the hum of bargaining surrounds you–an elderly woman haggles over schiacciata bread while a mother negotiates the price of pecorino cheese. The freshly roasted porchetta drifts through the air, mixing with the scent of sun-warmed leather from handcrafted belts displayed on a nearby stall. The sight of endless crowds moving between stalls, clutching canvas bags brimming with colorful produce, is overwhelming. A sense of curiosity stirs inside from the “offerta €1.50” signs. You wonder: Is this an authentic Italian bargain or just a tourist trap?

Il Mercato delle Cascine is the largest and cheapest open-air market in Florence, with its origins traced back to the 19th century. The market started as a place for Florentines to gather weekly to buy necessities at a bargain price. It is located in the biggest park in Florence, Parco delle Cascine, along the Arno River, and remains in the same location. During the ‘80s, the market stood as a place for authentic Italian vendors to come and sell their products to locals. The market’s products reflected Italian craftsmanship, and vendors were often Florentine families who had been selling for generations. Vendors and customers knew each other, and shopping here felt like an extension of local culture rather than a transaction. The market fulfilled every need, from groceries to clothing and household items. You could find a cobbler selling hand-stitched leather shoes beside a seamstress repurposing vintage silk scarves into elegant blouses. It was an integral part of the Florentine community to go and find truly vintage items.

Since the ’80s, the market has grown beyond its original Italian roots, reflecting a wave of globalization. As Florence became a prime tourist destination, its markets shifted to cater to new demands. In the past, every item was locally sourced—whether it was a handmade ceramic bowl or a handwoven scarf. Now, the merchandise tells a different story. There is a new wave of vendors who sell low-grade clothing products for 3-5 euros. These products have been unethically produced, which contradicts the original purpose of the market. A stall once known for vintage linen shirts now sells polyester blouses with “Made in China” labels. Where artisans once handcrafted belts from Tuscan leather, now imitation leather accessories line the tables. They are often indistinguishable from real craftsmanship until you touch the synthetic material.

The arrival of new vendors has shifted products from locally sourced Italian goods to imported fast fashion. These goods have been replacing Italian leather with synthetic fabrics, yet are sold at the same price. One of the many clothing stalls sells dupe designer shoe brands like Alexander McQueen for 10 euros. This “sale” can give the market a less authentic atmosphere and offer these already inexpensive products at a price that feels like a bargain. It’s clear that these items are not vintage, nor are they part of Florence’s rich fashion history. But for many shoppers, price wins over authenticity.

One local who has visited the Cascine market for decades expressed how the impact of new merchandise has changed the market’s motive from what it was supposed to be. It was originally meant to be a place where locals would come to find second-hand items and give them a new life. Under some vendors’ tents, that’s still the case. You can find well-known re-purposed brands like Levi’s and Diesel for an amazing low price. The market is still successful in its own way, but the new generation of vendors has taken advantage of the authenticity as a way to make a profit on mass-produced fashion.

Some may see this shift as an evolution that keeps the market relevant, while others feel it dilutes Florence’s fashion heritage. The market is held only on Tuesdays from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and still flourishes today. The food still smells delicious, and the prices are still low. But is a bargain worth the shift in focus?

The Monster of Florence

“He came up with a perfect plan.”

written by Charlotte Cicero & Guido Togliatti

This blog feature is an exclusive bonus installment to our Spring issue of Blending Magazine. After you finish reading, be sure to explore the rest of the magazine online—just follow this link to download the full Spring 2025 edition:
https://jschoolfua.com/images/BM/BM_151.pdf

Beneath the romantic cobblestones and rolling hills of Florence, Italy, lies one of the most disturbing true crime stories in European history. Between 1968 and 1985, a series of gruesome double homicides occurred in the Tuscan countryside. Il Mostro di Firenze—The Monster of Florence—created a legacy of terror, controversy, and conspiracy, and a decades-long series of unanswered questions.

A Pattern of Death

The first known crime occurred in 1968, though it wasn’t immediately linked to the rest. It wasn’t until a similar attack in 1974 that authorities began to suspect a serial killer might be at large. For 17 years, the murders continued. As media speculation and fear grew, so did the number of victims. 

Il Mostro di Firenze sought out young couples seeking privacy in rural areas and often attacked while the couples were in their cars. Throughout the serial murders, the weapon used was consistently the same—a .22 caliber Beretta pistol. The ritualistic elements in these murders pointed toward a deranged but highly meticulous criminal at work.

Insights from Florence

To better understand the grip this case holds on Florence, we spoke with Fabio Binarelli, a native of Tuscany and professor at The American University of Florence, who offered personal insight into the murders and their legacy. 

Binarelli noted that the killings followed a consistent pattern: the male victim was shot first, followed by the female, who was also often physically mutilated—most often targeting the breast or pelvic region. “That’s what made it feel truly serial,” Binarelli explained. 

The investigation was very complicated. Binarelli explained, “Today everything is on your laptop—but back then, to connect several files of investigation, you had to have one clever investigator who connected places and years with the details.”

Eventually, suspicion fell on Pietro Pacciani, a violent Tuscan farmer with a disturbing history. “The investigation narrowed down to one person specifically and his close circle of friends,”  Binarelli told us. Pacciani had once killed another man out of jealousy and had been known for abusing his wife and daughters. While Pacciani was convicted in 1994, his sentence was overturned in 1996 due to insufficient evidence. 

Adding to the surreal nature of the case, Pacciani created works of art that disturbed the people around him. “Despite being almost illiterate, he had an interesting collection of drawings, and if you see them, they give you chills…” He also wrote poems and read one about brotherhood and love to the court during his trial. “Imagine that,” Binarelli said. “You’re in front of the Supreme Court, answering for eight double murders, and you’re reciting poetry. Something … it’s off.”

Fear, Conspiracy, and Cultural Reflection

The atmosphere in Florence during the years of the murders was palpable. Locals avoided the countryside, and couples were terrified to go out at night. Conspiracy theories flourished—some claiming that Pacciani was merely a pawn for a secret society involved in ritual killings.

Binarelli elaborated, “It was a great opportunity for fictional writers and journalists – they have many conspiracy theories now.” 

American crime writer Douglas Preston famously got caught up in the case while researching in Florence. His book, The Monster of Florence, helped revive international interest, including a speculative link to the Zodiac Killer. Though no solid evidence ever backed this connection, the eerie similarities between the two killers only fueled the fire.

A Lasting Legacy

Beyond the crimes, the case peeled back layers of Tuscany’s cultural identity. “You have the judges: educated Florentines on one side, and on the other, Pietro and his friends, uneducated, rude, and when they were interrogated, they exposed the truths of their places.”

He continued, “Florence is sort of the light in the dark for human civilization. It’s interesting to see this inner struggle in the person of Piaccani, he was a brutal, violent person, a beast, but a beast with creative thoughts. That made him the perfect serial killer.”

Today, the Monster of Florence case remains officially unsolved. An upcoming Netflix docuseries has reignited interest and is set to be available this coming Fall. However, Binarelli says he’s weary about its historical accuracy: “If it’s only four episodes, that’s a lot to cram. I appreciate the artistic reenactment of things, but sometimes they are inaccurate or culturally distant.” 

Most of the tourists who come to Florence for its beauty, art, and history will never know the story that took place in the rolling hills above town. The legacy of Il Mostro di Firenze is a chilling reminder that even the most beautiful places can be harbors of darkness.

My Favorite Outdoor Florentine Spaces

A personal guide on where to be productive in Florence

written by Tyler Kirwan for SPEL Journalism

As of writing this I have less than 12 days left in Florence. While my dwindling time is upsetting, I have been lucky enough to discover some of the beautiful places the city has to offer. When I am not in class, or working for my internship, I enjoy reading, journaling, or just people watching outdoors in the sun-soaked city I have been able to call home for the past few months. I am someone who loses focus quite easily, and it is important for me to be able to be out of my home when I want to be productive. In the states, I spend most of my time when not in class, sitting in coffee shops. Italian culture is a little different when it comes to working in public, particularly coffee shops, and it is less common here to sit inside for a long while and work. The first few weeks I spent here I was overwhelmed with choices on where to spend my leisure time. Now that I have explored more of Florence, I have my version of a comprehensive list of my favorite places. Hopefully anyone reading this can take my advice and give these places a try, especially if they live in the same corner of Florence as I do.

While this list is in no particular order, I am currently writing this from the ‘Piazza Delle Murate,’ so I shall highlight it first. This Piazza contains a coffee shop/restaurant, and the entrance to the Murate Art District – a museum I would highly recommend. I discovered this space after being assigned to write about an exhibit opening at the museum. The coffee shop has Wi-Fi that extends out to the Piazza and I love getting a coffee and sitting outside and reading or writing. There are a lot of tables to sit at, and bringing a friend and having a conversation in the sun is wonderful.

Another one of my favorite locations is ‘Piazza Sant’Ambrogio.’ This Piazza is fun during the day but especially lively during the night. On any given day of the week all types of people are standing around with a drink and their friends chatting it up. This little area is a great place to meet new people, and I enjoy sitting on the church steps with my roommates. We live very close to this square and most nights, at some point we are spending time there. During the day the Piazza is nice as well and features a coffee shop on the corner that is a great place to study, with multiple restaurants very close.

Down the street is another great place called ‘Piazza dei Ciompi.’ The Piazza is surrounded by restaurants, places to drink and has free Wi-Fi. The centerpiece of the Piazza is a set of steps with columns and a roof. I sit on these steps all the time to read or eat a snack I bought nearby. There is a park behind the columns that also features a vintage market surrounding it on some occasions. My roommates have been able to find some nice stuff at the market, so for that reason alone this Piazza is definitely a great place to check out.

Switching from Piazzas, the next place on my list is my favorite park in Florence. ‘Parco Giochi,’ has beautiful trees surrounding it, and plenty of benches to soak up the sun and read a good book. The park also has a playground and a basketball court if either of those things suit your mood. There is even a merry go round in the center which I find quite sweet. If the benches are ever full there is some grass where I personally have napped during a warm day.

The ‘Giardino Lungarno del Tempio’ is a small park located on the riverbank of the Arno. This park is a great place to hang out with a book or with some friends, and at sunset the view of the Ponte Vecchio is phenomenal. One side note is that there is no Wi-Fi. So no laptop work, but definitely a great place to read a book and look at Florence from a unique viewpoint by the water.

The final location on my list of favorite places is actually on the opposite side of Florence than all the previous mentioned. ‘Orti del Parnaso,’ is a city park that looks over all of Florence. This park is easy to get to, as you can either walk there, or take the tram to the ‘Liberta-Parterre’ stop. This is my preferred method as I live a distance from the park, but the view is always worth the trek. Besides the view, the park itself is nice, and has some sculptures and plenty of benches to relax at.

Hopefully my recommendations are helpful to anyone reading and they can enjoy some of what makes these places so special to me. All I have left to say is, go outside, enjoy the beautiful city, and soak up some sun.

Piazza D’Azeglio: The Heartbeat of Florence’s Underground Past

written by Emily Gibson

This blog feature is an exclusive bonus installment to our Spring issue of Blending Magazine. After you finish reading, be sure to explore the rest of the magazine online—just follow this link to download the full Spring 2025 edition:
https://jschoolfua.com/images/BM/BM_151.pdf

An Unexpected Encounter 

How did I end up here, and what do I do now that I am? Surely, this is not that enchanted city where nearly 11 million visit annually, I reasoned. Where are the crowds or the music often needed to drown out the noise of the through traffic? “Michelangelo!” called a woman’s voice. I turned to see what art she could be referring to and was met by a young child with blonde hair and blue eyes running joyfully toward a playset. In a place where tourists spend an average of three billion dollars every year, an experience here, inconspicuous within the Florentine jungle, cost me only time. 

“It’s hallowed ground,” said former Stanford professor and self-made historian Albert Gidari. “You may not know the history in detail or who died and what they did, but you just know, and that feeling conveys the place, so if you want someplace to just reflect for a few minutes on what life was like and why it was important, that’s what spirit is within that park.” 

A Quiet Corner of Buried Defiance 

Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio is a quaint 165-year-old square nestled in the corner of Florence’s city center between Campo Di Marte station and Sant’Ambrogio and, at first glance, a seemingly unusual site for a place where mass tourism has taken a toll. The neighborhood is still inhabited by residents where children play, dogs run, friends converse, and the elderly rest, but when I looked around at the beautiful, historical buildings, some embodying the prestigious liberty style, it was hard for me to imagine war was once present for which cause many lives ended there. 

I shifted my gaze to the heart of the square where water spurted from the beak of a bronze crane — a symbol of good luck — and I wondered whether luck was enough for those brave men and women who once held anti-fascist meetings right here under the nose of the proponents themselves. I tried to imagine myself where I was, only at a time when deafening uncertainty filled the air. 

“Anyone hiding material of any kind useful to the German Armed Forces or the German Nation is liable to be sentenced to death,” stated the Commander General (qtd. in Supporting Radio CORA: ‘resistant’ Arcetri in the memoirs of Michele Della Corte, 17).  

Echoes of Joy Amid Whispers of Loss – WW2 

Initially, I did not perceive the tangible references to a WW2 history still pulsing beneath the surface, but when I saw the children chasing one another up and down the paved piazza, I could not help but reflect on the childish games I once played, such as hide and seek, wherein I knew too well the feeling of rushed adrenaline coupled with fear when my hiding places were eventually found out. In the end, though, it was just a game, and my enemies were still my friends.

Hence, I struggled to picture the square before the 1940s, when there were large iron gates filling the space where the sidewalks now reside, making the park an impossible hideout for 80 years. When the square finally experienced newfound freedom, it came at the expense of Florence’s citizens. The gates were donated and melted to make the weapons forging the real gates around the freedoms of the people as uniformed soldiers of the Nazi Regime filled the city, stripping away what I have often taken for granted: safety, basic rights, and life itself. Many, I learned, would surrender to their cause, but others would stand in opposition, risking it all for hope. 

A Final Transmission of Hope 

A wise man once proved there is no greater love than for a man to lay down his life for a friend. Thus, what Resistance leaders Enrico Bocci, Italo Piccagli, and Luigi Morandi, among others, did on behalf of their friends and beloved city was nothing short of great love. On the fateful day of June 7, 1944, Nazi soldiers raided the top floor of Piazza D’Azeglio 12 — the final hiding place of Radio CORA. Therein, resistance men and women endangered their lives to transmit secret messages and hope to the Italian population. The three partisans were captured, tortured, and killed. 

I walked to the northeastern side of Piazza D’Azeglio to see for myself what remained of those heroes, and I was met by their bronze memorial. I paused for a moment of silence and reflection. 

An Invitation 

My money is useless in D’Azeglio because the peace, joy, and freedom the square offers came at an invaluable investment I may never fully understand. Its rich history whispers through the grounds and nearby corners, where the Jewish synagogue still miraculously illuminates the skyline. Nonetheless, individuals visit D’Azeglio for various reasons, such as convenience and fond pastimes like Florentines Tobias Zerella, Anne Whittaker, and Tommaso Tempesti. Others like Gidari, who dedicated years to uncovering the stories of the resistance movement, visit because the historical site still speaks to them today. In any case, D’Azeglio serves as an invitation to enjoy the present and an opportunity to reflect on the past. Amid all Florence has to offer, I have discovered that if one has the time, Piazza D’Azeglio, the heartbeat of Florence’s underground past, offers an experience that mere money cannot afford. 

“If you’re there for a week or more and want to breathe in Florence, it’s just such a pleasure to go and sit on a bench for an hour or two with a coffee… and watch the real people that live there enjoying their city, and just imagine what the city was like,” said Gidari.

Tearing Up the Checklist: How Studying Abroad in Florence Redefined My Dreams

A student’s journey from rigid plans to spontaneous gratitude reveals the unexpected beauty of slowing down, connecting deeply, and truly living abroad.

written by Connor McHugh for SPEL Journalism

I left O’Hare Airport in Chicago on a flight to Florence, where I made lists of everything I wanted to see and do while abroad. It included trips, events, restaurants, and everything in between. The longer I was in the air, the higher the anticipation of arriving in Italy grew. For my whole life, I have dreamed of traveling the world and seeing every corner the earth has to offer. Studying abroad was my chance to start those dreams.

I had a very specific idea of the type of experience I thought I would have while abroad. I saw myself being out of Florence 5–6 days a week, traveling to a different country each time with brand-new experiences to show for it. After the first three weeks of the semester and not a single new country visited, I realized I may have been overzealous. However, those first three weeks allowed me to fully immerse myself in the city and community of Florence and begin making connections that would end up lasting.

After that came my first time traveling outside Italy for spring break. From Portugal to France and Switzerland, it was an experience I will never forget. As I traveled from country to country, in awe of the breathtaking landscapes and monuments at each place, I couldn’t help but think about the eight-year-old boy who once dreamed of what I was now doing. At the end of the break, I stood on top of the Swiss Alps with ski poles in hand and thought to myself: How did I ever get so lucky? The air felt like invisible gold on my skin as I relished a moment I had long waited for. It began my mission to make sure I lived every day abroad to the absolute best of my ability. I felt I owed it to everyone in my life who had helped me get to this point. I also owed it to the people who would give anything to be in my position.

Recognizing how fortunate I am to live this way gave me a newfound sense of purpose and direction.

Coming off the best week of my life during spring break came the final 11 weeks of the semester. This is when I began to feel more like an expat living in Florence rather than just a tourist. I became familiar with certain spots in town, getting to know workers and owners of all different kinds. It quickly became apparent that the level of hospitality in Florence is unmatched. Anyone would be glad to strike up a conversation with you and give advice on what it means to live in the city and country.

It was about halfway through the semester when I found myself in an actual routine. I had class and work, different places I would eat on certain days, and I would pick up my bags and travel somewhere for the weekend. That routine became a cornerstone of my time in Florence and made me realize that it’s very easy to make anywhere you live feel like home if you try hard enough. People often talk about being homesick and missing that sense of comfort and belonging. To me, home is a place where I know what I’m doing every day of the week. I find comfort in thinking about the next day and knowing what I’m going to be doing—with new experiences sprinkled in here and there.

Paradoxically, it only feels like home once you start trying new things. That way, you can fully understand what it is you want to continue doing. It’s important to try as many things as you can at least once. Of course, the weekends are when routines should be thrown out the window and used as opportunities to travel and go on new adventures.

As I wrap up my semester abroad, I look back on the things I will remember most about my time and what I’ve learned from it. I learned that the things that will have a lasting impact on me are the moments that made me feel an immense sense of gratitude for the life I’m living. In France, I won’t remember the Eiffel Tower as much as I’ll remember playing soccer with local kids on the street. In Switzerland, I won’t remember any specific tricks I did on my skis, but I’ll remember the feeling of spraying my friend with fresh snow. Across every country and city, the moments that leave a lasting impression are the ones you least expect.

That is the beautiful thing about studying abroad—and life in general. People think that in order to make amazing memories, they have to visit the most luxurious destinations and live lavishly. In reality, the more you connect with the local environment and live in the moment, the more you realize how amazing this experience is.

If I had the chance to meet my former self on that plane five months ago, I would have grabbed that sheet of paper and torn it up in front of him. I would have told him not to be so constrained by expectations and plans—and to live every single moment like it matters.

My Italian Roots

written by Guido Togliatti for SPEL: Journalism

My name is Guido Togliatti and I am studying abroad in Florence for the Spring, 2025 semester. Originally, I am from California, but I have Italian ancestry through my Grandfather.

Palmiro Togliatti himself was born in 1893 into a comfortable middle-class household and displayed academic promise from an early age. He earned a law degree at the University of Turin and then served on the front lines during World War I, where he sustained injuries that deepened his commitment to social justice. After the war, he channeled his convictions into journalism—founding the weekly newspaper Il Partito Comunista—and helped organize Italy’s first cohesive communist movement. When Mussolini outlawed the party in 1926, most leaders were arrested, but Togliatti escaped to France and later the Soviet Union, where he navigated the dangerous politics of Stalin’s purges to keep the movement alive.

During the Spanish Civil War, Togliatti helped coordinate aid and volunteers for the Republican side—a chapter of his life that underscored both his political skill and his willingness to risk everything for his beliefs. He returned to Italy in 1944, joining Marshal Badoglio’s transitional government and working to legalize the Communist Party once more. His life nearly ended in 1948, when a young fascist assailant wounded him—an event that triggered mass demonstrations across the country and solidified his status as a symbol of resistance. After his death in 1964, the Soviet city of Stavropol-on-Volga was renamed Tolyatti in his honor, a rare acknowledgment of an Italian figure abroad.

Ultimately, learning this history has deepened my desire to connect with Genoa and to cherish every moment I spend here in Italy. Learning about this made being in Italy even more special for me.

Spilling the Beans: Comparing Café Culture Between Italy and America

Reflecting on the differences between the rushed attitude of coffee drinkers in America, to the relaxed nature of café culture in Italy.

written by Tyler Kirwan for SPEL: Journalism

Cafés in America are quite different to those in Italy on multiple different fronts. The reason why seems to stem from the difference in attitudes on leisure between the two countries.

In July 2023 I visited Italy for the first time. My trip was two weeks long and included four other countries in Europe. So many countries in such a short time that I normally forget to mention some when telling people of the trip. Still, it was amazing, and we spent the bulk of the trip traveling around Italy. We made Rome our home base while in the country, and traveled to Florence and Naples while we were here. Of the three cities, I would with 80% certainty say that Florence was my favorite of the places I visited. Luckily for me, I attended my school’s study abroad fair on a whim one day while walking through our Journalism building, and discovered they offered a semester in Florence with an Internship! How exciting I thought, and spoke with my advisor about the opportunity. Six months later I was applying for the abroad program, and four months after that I was packing my bags. 

Working in coffee for over seven years, I would consider myself a pretty O.K. source of all things encompassing. When you take into account the fact that I am only twenty years old, I feel as though I am allowed even more merit points. I have worked in the coffee scene since I was thirteen. I’ll avoid the long explanation, but basically when I was in eighth grade, I opened up a coffee shop at my local mall and have been pretty interested in coffee and its culture ever since. Following my coffee shop, I was hired as a barista in a small café in my hometown. Six years later and I am still working there, so I feel I know the demographics of ours and other American shops. The types of people who spend time inside sitting down are students, remote workers, families, and friends / dates. (I can never really tell which group people fall into.)

My coffee shop also definitely affiliates itself with the younger audience; a place for self-described indie and emo kids.

The coffee scene in Italy though, now that is an entirely different scene. A ‘Brave New World’, if you will. On my first trip to Italy, it was what obsessed me the most. I remember walking through the train station in Rome after leaving the airport, and an Illy Cafè caught my eye. I was previously familiar with Illy having worked in coffee, but this was an entire shop dedicated to it, and even weirder, everyone was huddled around the counter. I walked over with my bags to see what all the commotion could possibly be over this seemingly-ordinary coffee shop, and was physically taken aback by what has to be the biggest differences between coffee in the States and coffee in Italy. Everyone was standing at a flat bar a little lower than the register and drinking ceramic cups of espresso. Ceramic cups at a train station. This was mind boggling. Why are they all standing around when they could just take it away in a paper cup I wondered. Aren’t they in a hurry?

I have come to learn during my time here that Italians have a different relationship with coffee. All this is gathered simply by being an observer, however I believe the following to be true. Italians use a café as a place that is not work, nor home, but its own third thing. When I say cafes, I actually mean bars, as that’s where you can find an elegantly crafted Italian espresso machine sitting alongside a liquor cabinet. They also tend to have pastries and snacks at bars. Tabacchi shops also tend to have espresso machines. The word cafe for me has become an all-encompassing term for coffee shop, bar, tobacco shop – all places in Italy with an espresso machine. The point of all this is to say that Italians treat these third places as hangout spots. These are places to escape work and school, talk to their friends or family, or chat with someone they haven’t seen in a while. They grab a little glass mug of espresso and stand at the counter and catch up. If they know no one there, they lean against the counter and drink their espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, or whatever their preference. It’s not about getting a caffeine boost in a plastic cup, and running as fast as you can to work. The culture is about getting a morning coffee to enjoy and wake up with. A daily ritual, even if short, that can be savored, not rushed.

Now we get back to my previously mentioned demographics. From what I’ve noticed there isn’t much need for cafes with affiliations. Most places offer similar vibes, with the outliers being specialty shops such as bookstores or record store cafes. For my coffee shop at home, to be successful we need an affiliation, a reason for people to specifically come to us. A marketability. Cafes here don’t have much of that. They offer relatively the same menu at the same prices for anyone to come in and enjoy. There are some specific coffee shops whose goal seems to fit a certain market, and one of those Ditta. Ditta Artiginale allows people to sit at tables or bars with laptops or books, and a lot of their customers take that opportunity. To me, they are a very American-oriented shop, and a lot less like a traditional Italian café. Ditta isn’t the only shop like this, there are other places with an American audience, such as Melaleuca, which is an Australian-American brunch café. On Melaleuca’s website, they even ask people to respect their laptop-free days of Friday-Sunday. 

I hope that during the rest of my stay in Florence I can come to learn more of the cafe culture here and maybe a lot of my hypothesis will be disproven by nuances I have yet to uncover. I really do appreciate the way Italians separate life and work, and would love some of that relaxing energy when it comes to my morning coffee in the States.

Bio Fashion Lab: The Thoughtful Retail Experience

written by Lily Carroll for Special Project: Experiential Learning in Journalism

Through experiential learning at FUA-AUF, I’ve gotten the opportunity to interact with Bio Fashion Lab, an independent boutique dedicated to responsible, ethical shopping. The store’s owner, Debora Florio, has spent over nine years in the fashion industry, seven of which were in fast fashion, an industry worth approximately 103 billion U.S. dollars in 2022, projected to reach 291 billion U.S. dollars in 2032, according to PR Newswire. This experience has driven Florio to conduct extensive research, educating herself about consumer behavior, the fashion industry as a whole, and ethical solutions to the extensive problems it creates. With her findings, Florio started Bio Fashion Lab, a space designed to invite others to join in this mission for change. 

Upon receiving a degree in Economics, Florio realized that she wasn’t dissatisfied in this line of work. She says that at the time, unfortunately, shopping for clothes was what brought her the most joy, so she decided to find a job in the fashion industry. Unaware of the many unethical practices implemented in the industry, Florio slowly uncovered the ways we harm people around the world and the environment when we support fast fashion. She learned that these stores use minimal human resources, producing thousands of the same products at low prices, 30% of which wind up in landfills. Just one of the many ways this industry is creating crises everywhere. 

“I realized what was behind the scenes of production in terms of social injustice, and the negative impact that this industry has on the planet, I decided to take action,” Florio said. “I started studying consumer behavior, marketing and whatever lies behind the mechanism that triggers our mind to go and shop for ourselves.”

Florio continued to work in the fashion industry, this time with a seemingly ethical brand. It was there that she met a woman with a crippling shopping addiction, spending thousands of euros a week with no satisfaction, and an insatiable desire that could not be fulfilled. This woman inspired her to create a solution for people to shop responsibly.

So, Bio Fashion Lab was born, to promote emerging, ethical designers using natural materials and equitable production. Offering a healthy way for customers to shop in a manner that does not promote overconsumption, and respects the environment and all who inhabit it.

“Whenever you start to go really deep in the research, you see the truth with your eyes. I’ve never been to Pakistan, Bangladesh, places where these issues are most prevalent, so we do a lot of calls with different unions and government workers on the other side of the world,” Florio proudly states. “We can hear their testimonies and see that it’s quite real. It’s there. When you really understand what’s going on, you can never go back.”

Florio says that the clothes are just a small part of the ways she educates others on the fashion industry, and how we can improve it. Through documentary screenings, workshops, and panels. Bio Fashion Lab strives to educate this generation of consumers to make the right choices. An environment that encourages shoppers to ask themselves, “Do I really need this?” especially when faced with a cheap, overproduced option. Bio Fashion Lab teaches us how to say no, and explore another option.

To learn more about Bio Fashion Lab, visit https://biofashionlab.com/, where you can read about the movement and upcoming events. On Thursday, 13 June, Bio Fashion Lab will host its first fashion show entitled, “Fashion Under Construction,” making light of the construction that currently surrounds the store, highlighting the store’s call for unconventional ways to shop.