By Emma Vogel
Contrary to popular belief, not everything worth seeing in Florence is on the north side of the Arno river. Here are some of the hidden gems I’ve discovered living beyond the river, or as the locals call it, the “Oltrarno” or in an even further colloquial way, “Diladdarno.”
I was confused the first day I arrived at my apartment in Florence. Where was the Duomo? The Ponte Vecchio? The statue of David? Okay, I wasn’t quite so naive as to expect all of those Florentine staples right outside of my apartment door, but I knew I was in a different part of Florence than I had seen when searching Google Images. It took me only a few minutes of wandering to realize that I lived on the south side of the Arno river, and it took only a few days after that to fall in love with where I live. Sure, what draws most people to Florence is the bustling Piazza della Repubblica, the magnificent Duomo, and the incredibly famous Palazzo Vecchio, but there’s much more to see than what the tourist guides suggest. There’s a whole hidden part of Florence with charming artisan shops, authentic Italian cuisine, and hip cafés filled with locals that you can find by simply crossing one of the many bridges. Here are the best parts of Oltrarno that I’ve discovered so far.
Food
Oltrarno has some of the best restaurants in all of Florence. With a multitude of choices from family-owned restaurants to trendy eateries, I find a new favorite restaurant every day. So far my top picks include: GustaPizza (not surprising as it is loved by abroad students, tourists, and locals alike), Osteria Santo Spirito (great sit-down spot), Club Paradiso (owned by an Italian couple, the wife cooks the food, the husband is the waiter, and the menu changes everyday!) As for gelato, Gelateria Carraia never disappoints and has been a local favorite for years (a wide variety of flavors and generous portions.)
Pro Tip: You can compare southern Italian pizza styles in the neighborhod. After GustaPizza, check out O’ Munaciello and Da Gherardo (don’t let the plain website fool you, the place is tiny but packs a punch!).
Santo Spirito: A Place to See
Crossing the Ponte Vecchio into Oltrarno brings you to the center of the most authentic artisan shops in Florence. Walking down Via Romana, you pass stores selling handmade leather shoes, fresh pasta and olive oil, and art galleries. Past the artisan shops you can find Santo Spirito, arguably the hippest neighborhood in Florence. Piazza Santo Spirito is filled with cute cafes and trendy restaurants known for apertivo and, of course, the famous Basilica di Santo Spirito. The square has a daily market open until 2 p.m. where you can find fresh produce sold by neighborhood locals. A short hike from there brings you to the breathtaking Piazzale Michelangelo where you have a view of the entire city. A little farther up the hill you can find San Miniato al Monte, one of the most beautiful and unique churches in Florence.
Pro Tip: Santo Spirito is the iconic square of the Oltrarno area. Also try exploring the tiny Piazza della Passera for funky restaurants and great gelato. Piazza del Carmine (also home to the Brancacci Chapel) and Piazza Tasso are also interesting squares with a great local vibe.
Although Florence’s most famous monuments are undeniably amazing, it’s more than worth it to escape the crowds of tourists to explore the hidden beauty and authenticity that is Oltrarno.
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