Florence’s City Walls

Photo by the author

by Jessica Rowe

Like most former Roman cities, Florence once had high defensive walls that ran the perimeter of the city. The original gates, some of the towers, and the walls in the Oltrano area remain today as a reminder of the city’s history.

On my first day in Florence, I walked through the city aimlessly and came upon one of the remaining city gates. At the time, I had no idea I was at the Torrino di Santa Rosa. All I knew was that in front of me was a piece of history, the likes of which I would never find in my own city. I looked up in awe at the tower, the gate, and the wall stretching down the length of the road. For the first time, I felt the impact of standing in an ancient city and breathing its history.

Throughout my time here, I’ve been lucky enough to see many of the walls’ remaining parts. Located in the Oltrano area of the city, it is easy to visit the walls today. You can walk beside them with no ticket required. The Torrino di Santa Rosa is right near the river and nearly impossible to miss. You can also visit Porta San Niccolὸ – the only city gate to maintain its original height. For only four euros, you can even climb to the top and look out across the city. Also in the San Niccolò district of the Oltrarno is the Porta San Miniato. Rather than a tower shape, this porta is built as an entrance within city walls that are still standing and the road leading away from the city center connects to the San Miniato al Monte church, hence the name.

I’ve also learned a lot about the walls themselves. Florence was founded around 59 B.C. as the Roman city of Florentia. In the second century, the walls were built out of tradition rather than for defensive purposes. The Roman Empire, at the time, expanded into France and Germany so it would have been rather difficult to attack Florence.

Over the centuries, the walls have been rebuilt, expanded, and restored five times since their original construction. Most of these adjustments were made because of the city’s growing population and the need to keep citizens under military protection. The surviving version of the walls were planned in 1284 but the work didn’t start until 1298. In this iteration, the city gates were set up for the first time and the walls were finally completed in 1333. They stood at 35 metres tall, enclosed 650 hectares of land, and ran a perimeter of 8.5 kilometres.

Then, in 1865, Florence became the capital of Italy for five brief years. However, the city, which had mostly retained its medieval style, had to adjust to the new demands placed on it as capital. Giuseppe Poggi, a Florentine architect and engineer, was commissioned to design an urban renovation of the city. He was chosen for his ability to blend neo-Renaissance style with modern trends. Along with giving the city a wealthy and celebratory look, he was tasked with creating housing and facilities for government employees, and defending the city against a potential flood from the Arno. His ultimate goal was to expand the city limits. He did so by tearing down the old walls and surrounding the city with the Viali di Circonvallazione – a system of large roadways – instead. He left the ancient city gates standing as well as the walls in the Oltrano area.

Knowing all of this, I returned again to the ancient city walls to look upon the years of history in front of me. What started as a Roman tradition had turned into the first line of defense against the siege of Emperor Henry IV and now stood as an ancient artifact, a symbol of the city’s history and its age. In my six weeks here, I have found many signs of Florence’s past and its love for preserving it, but it’s the city walls that call to me. I can hear their stories, walk alongside them and pretend, just for a moment, that they’re here to protect me and the culture of this beautiful city.

Porta San Niccolὸ – Piazza Poggi
June 24 – September 30
Guided tours every 30 minuts from 5 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.
English speaking guides are available.
Tickets: €4
For information/reservations:
Call 055-2768224 or email info@muse.comune.fi.it

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Museo 900: Exploring 20th Cent. Art in Florence

Photo by the author

by Jessica Rowe

The Museo Novecento is a 20th century Italian art museum in Florence. While we tend to focus on the Uffizi and Galleria dell’Academia, it is just as important to appreciate the work of modern artists.

Recently, I had the chance to visit the Museo Novecento in Florence. In a city full of historic art, this museum, which focuses on 20th century Italian art, is often overlooked. While the older works are widely known and beautiful, it is important to consider more modern contributions and movements in art.

Art in the 20th century was greatly influenced by the events of the time. Known mainly for the rise of modernism – a movement to revitalize the way society saw art – the 20th century brought with it expressions of nihilism and art so abstract as to make the viewer question what really counted as art. At the same time, this period marked a break from the past. Artists wished to move forward and acknowledge contemporary work instead of just that of the greats.

In 1945, Arturo Martini published an essay entitled “Sculpture: A Dead Language” which incited a new generation of artists to push back through the 1950s and 60s. This response included sculptures made out of new and odd materials, such as various types of metal. These sculptures also explored uglier sides of life and the perspective of the artist instead of displaying a perfect subject. This matched the feeling of the time as young people were beginning to separate from their parents’ ideals and values in order to make up their own minds.

The century progressed with the creation of Gruppo 70 in 1963, an artists’ group that focused on the meshing of language with visuals. They did this in order to analyze how advertisements and propaganda affected people. These artists wanted to take back the medium, to figure out how it worked in order to be less affected by it themselves and to effect others with the meaning of their own works. At this time the political atmosphere was split due to the Cold War so it is easy to understand why artists would try to find their own voices outside the influence of the government.

Groups like this gave way to movements that tried to get new, contemporary artists on the scene. From 1964 until 1974, the municipality of Florence had a bursary to help young artists pursue their studies. It granted one million lire each to four students – two in painting and two in sculpture. This inspired new work in the 20th century and new voices. It also gave a place for young artists to compete and show off their work.

During this time, in November 1966, Florence flooded and hundreds of ancient works of art were damaged. So called “mud angels” worked to restore the works but out of this came the 1967 “Artists for Florence” exhibition, which focused on contemporary work and its importance to society. This further shows contemporaries trying to pull away from the past and make names for themselves. The desire to do this is what made the 20th century a period of change and originality.

20th century art has greatly influenced the art that we see today. Many new techniques and styles were born in this period and continue to be used today. Artists now have much more room to grow and explore their own ideas than they did before modernism. While the greats will always have a place in art history, it was the 20th century that allowed contemporaries to find their own voices and branch out from what others had done in the past.

Museo Novecento
Complesso dello Spedale delle Leopoldine – P. Santa Maria Novella 10, FirenzeSummer opening hours (1st of April – 30th of September)
Mon – Tue – Wed – Sat – Sun | 11.00am – 8.00pm
Thursday | 11.00am – 2.00 pm
Friday | 11.00am – 11.00 pm
The last entry is one hour before closing.
www.museonovecento.it/en/

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Fashion Innovation: 9 Decades of Gucci

By Lauren Miller
Photo by Jordyn Asakowicz

The innovation theme of our latest magazine continues with our radio podcasts. How did Gucci gain its sudden ascent in the fashion world in the past few seasons? Lauren Miller investigates the evolution of Gucci’s history and the brand’s new creative director Alessandro Michele who has all the editors and influencers buzzing about his collections.

Music courtesy by FUA Music Production Course students:
Mason Bikshorn, John Filippo
“The Jazz Age 1920s”
“Soundscape of World War II,” standard Youtube License.
“Wipeout” by The Beach Boys

Magliabechi: An Unsung Hero

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by Jessica Rowe

FUA’s DIVA building sits on via Magliabechi, a street named for a lesser-known Florentine hero: Antonio Magliabechi, a man instrumental to the creation of the public library in Florence.

Antonio Magliabechi is a man who many people new to Florence may have never heard of but his influence can still be felt throughout the city today. He was instrumental in the creation of the first public library in Florence and dedicated his life to books and reading. He was a librarian, a scholar, and a bibliophile. Because of him, it is easier for people to access knowledge and learn to read, creating a better educated society for us all.

Born in 1633, Magliabechi apprenticed as a goldsmith and worked as such until he was forty. It wasn’t until Michele Ermini took an interest in him that he learned Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. In 1673, he became the librarian to Cosimo III de’Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany.

Magliabechi was well-known for his love of books and his incredible ability to retain knowledge. He owned forty-thousand books and ten thousand manuscripts and had read all of them. His house overflowed with books, so much so that even the porch was covered with them. Scholars and authors from every nation corresponded with him and, while he never wrote himself, he was more than happy to help out writers. As a result, he had many books dedicated to him.

Magliabechi was also known for being incredibly eccentric. He often ignored the realities of life in order to continue reading. This led to such things as him not drawing his salary, wearing clothes until they fell off of him, and not undressing before going to bed. He only left Florence twice in his life and the furthest he went was to Prato, where he accompanied Cardinal Henry Norris, the Vatican librarian, to see a manuscript.

When he died in 1714, he left his books to be used as a public library and, in 1861, his collection was combined with that of Victor Emanuel II, the King of Italy, to form the core collection of the Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale Firenze. Today, this library sits on the corner of via Magliabechi and via Tripoli, which is a continuation of Corso dei Tintori where FUA’s main campus is located.

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The Best Places to Draw in Florence

Photo by the author

By Jessica Rowe

We all know that Florence is a beautiful city filled with incredible sites. If you’re an artist, you might feel at a loss for where to begin drawing the scenery – fear not, we’re here to help!

Florence’s beauty deserves to be captured in art by hands of all levels, from the very professional to hobbyists. However, in a city so full of phenomenal views, it might be hard to know where to start sketching. Here is a short list of some of the best places in the city to settle down and break out your sketchbook:

  1. Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio – This piazza is a beautiful park full of leafy green trees, stone paths, benches, and a playground. There are plenty of places to sit down and relax. The environment is perfect for doing some drawings and you’ll have plenty of subjects to choose from – the greenery, the park itself, or even the surrounding buildings which have intricate stonework on their exteriors.
  2. Piazza Santa Croce – The Basilica of Santa Croce is the perfect subject for your sketchbook. Besides being breath-taking, the details on its exterior will give you plenty of practice at fine-tuning your drawing skills. There aren’t many places to sit around the building – it may be easier to find a place to sit in one of the surrounding restaurants – but the view is worth it.
  3. Lungarno delle Grazie/Ponte alle Grazie – The Lungarno della Grazie runs along the river Arno, giving you a beautiful view of the other half of the city. There are cafes here that you can sit at and look out the windows while you draw. If you go out on the Ponte alla Grazie, you’ll have an amazing view of the Ponte Vecchio. There is nowhere to sit but if you’re careful, you can lean against the railing while sketching.
  4. Piazza della Repubblica – At night, this piazza is the most beautiful place to be. In the center sits a carousel ringed with lights and street performers dance and sing nearby. Around the piazza there are nice restaurants and at its back is the wall marking the center of the city. It’s always buzzing with people and movement. There are plenty of places to sit and sketch this beautiful scene.

There are, of course, many additional beautiful places to sketch in Florence, but this list is meant to give you a place to start. Find more incredible views on your own and fill your sketchbook with the sights of Florence.

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June Events in Florence

As temperatures start to heat up and Italians head toward the beaches, the month of June proves to be busy in and around Florence. From music festivals to historical soccer matches and medieval dinners, tourists and Florentines alike are sure not to get bored with these upcoming events. Here are some suggestions that FUA students put together.

Il Mercatale

By Jessica Kruebbe

Piazza della Repubblica will host another one of its Mercatale events for the public. The market is normally held the first weekend of each month welcoming residents and tourists alike. The next market will be held on June 3rd and 4th from 8:30 to 19:30. There will be 84 producers at the event, 46 of which are from the province of Florence. Others are from the surrounding provinces such as Prato, Siena, and Arezzo. Visitors can browse long booths full of wine, oil, vegetables, fruit, truffles, and other freshly grown produce. In addition, there will be some typical products from the area including salami, cheese, and honey. The variety of vendors allows passersby to try many authentic foods such as “necci” biscuits of the Tuscan Appennino. For the rest of the spring and summer seasons, the market will rotate between Piazza Repubblica, Piazza del Carmine, and Piazza Santa Maria Novella.

A Cena da Messer Giovanni

By Whitney Byrd

Hear ye, hear ye!
Come experience a night in Medieval times sponsored by the Municipality of Certaldo on June 10th and June 17th. Join us in the beautiful castle in Certaldo Alto, the small medieval town, for the 17th annual feast!
The night will consist of a typical dinner from Medieval times served with authentic wooden cutlery. The menu for both evenings will be the same, catered by Party Giò-Certaldo. The meal will be served by 80 boys and girls in medieval costumes.
No feast would be complete without entertainment! Between courses, don’t miss the sword duels, fire eaters, and a performance by Compagnia del Drago Nero. To celebrate the end of the evening, stick around for a magnificent fireworks display over Palazzo Petrorio!

“A Cena da Messer Giovanni” will begin at 20:00 and end at 23:00.
Don’t forget to book in advance! Cost is € 39 / person

For reservations:
Grazia Palmieri, Via 2 Giugno – Certaldo (FI)
Tel. 0571 663128 – Cell. 335 6988480
info@elitropia.org

Rock the House Down with Firenze Rocks Summer Festival!

By Paige Petronio

Florence Italy- From June 23rd until the 25th at the Visarno Arena big names like Aerosmith, The Cranberries, and Placebo will be sharing their talent to the people of Florence. They are expecting big crowds for this event and the Mayer of Florence has already stated that for those three days Florence is going to be the “capital of rock”.

This festival is bringing in talent from all over the world. This includes English chart topping bands making their first Italian Debut along with some lesser known acts including Prophets of Rage and Glen Hansard. Accompanying these amazing artists, will be a variety of food trucks and stands to cater to the concert goers cravings.

The festival has even created its own app available that you can download so that you can stay in touch with all of the exclusive content throughout the entire festival. This gives guests the ability to take pictures with exclusive filters. Most importantly it will have a lay out of each of the acts so you can be sure to not miss your favorite singers.

What: Firenze Rocks!
Who: Big names including Aerosmith, Eddie Vedder and System of a Down
Where: Visarno Arena
When: June 23, 24, 25, 2017
The summer Firenze Rocks tickets are on sale online: www.ticketone.it

La Festa di San Giovanni

By Lauren Fulton

The summer months of Florence showcase beautiful blue skies and sparkling water as the temperatures increase in the lovely summer months of Italy. June 24 brings lots of excitement and cheer to the city as Florence celebrates their patron saint, Saint John the Baptist. Throughout the day festivities can be discovered around the city. The main event of the day, is the final game of Calcio Storico, a soccer game mixed with some rugby and wrestling played in historic Renaissance attire, followed by fireworks at the end of the night. Calcio Storico includes four teams, representing the four historical neighborhoods of Firenze. The semifinals begin the weekend of June 11, times to be announced.

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Live Music Evenings in Florence


By Madison Starkey

Florence is home to a rich live music scene waiting to be discovered. Madison checked out NoF, a locals’ favorite in the artsy San Frediano neighborhood in the Oltrarno, where the vocals and beat made for an unforgettable experience to be remembered. 

NoF is where good vibes are plenty and musicians from “all corners and crossroads of the globe” are hosted weekly. My friends and I have the good fortune of living just a block away from this cool and confident live jazz club in the Oltrarno neighborhood. We recently caught a performance that I know will be one of my favorite memories of Florence. A young woman with dark hair, black boots, and the strongest, most vibrant voice I’ve ever heard provided the vocals for this unforgettable evening. The night was unforgettable, due to her captivating talent and due to the fact that we stumbled across it by pure chance. We had originally intended to walk past NoF, but the voice of the singer, the rhythm the drummer was banging out, and the smooth, deep sounds emanating from the guitarist’s strings captured us before we could do so. Instead, we wandered, dreamlike, into NoF, and weaved our way through the small crowd to the front of the stage.

And that is where we stayed.

I so vividly remember that night, that music, and stealing glances at my friends faces and enjoying their facial expressions: they were as entranced as I was. The woman’s voice was deep, smooth, and seductive even with the most upbeat songs. The band played mostly jazz music and re-vamped versions of classic hits. I failed to find out what the artist or band’s name was, unfortunately, but I know I’ll be revisiting that night in years to come. In my reveries, one moment I’m taking notes at University, the next, I’m back in that dark wood-panelled room, unable to stop myself from swaying to my imagined, but once real music.

NoF
Borgo S. Frediano 17red

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Time to “Leaf” Home for Florentine Gardens

Boboli Garden View

By Samara Rynecki 

Get away from the touristy crowds in the museums and art galleries, and get lost in the green areas of Florence.

These quiet spots can have you feeling relaxed and stress free within minutes. These places are interesting to get lost in and easy to spend hours in. If you want a place where you can feel peaceful and connect with nature, away from the busy and chaotic streets during touristy seasons, then check out these sanctuaries.

There are many options in Florence where you can appreciate the greenery and landscape, They include the Orto Botanico also known as the “Giardino dei Semplici,” the well-known Boboli gardens, the Bardini garden, and Florence Tepidarium at the Giardino di Orticoltura.

Each of these individual gardens is unique in their own, and in Florence. The Orto Botanico is a botanical garden located in Via Micheli, 3. It was originally the Medici family’s medicine garden and one of the oldest in Europe. Today it is a part of the Science of Natural History complex managed by the Italian university in Florence. Boboli is Florence’s grandest palatial garden with an early baroque drama and amazing view of the city. Bardini is not well known despite being connected to Boboli, but its terraced landscape is making a comeback from its previous restoration. The Florence Tepidarium located at the Giardino di Oritcoltura and was the largest greenhouse in Italy when it was built in the late 1800s.

These charming spots for calm walks and cooling off in the heat are going to leave you wishing you were smelling the roses instead of standing in long lines for the major monuments of Florence.

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