
by Jessica Rowe
Like most former Roman cities, Florence once had high defensive walls that ran the perimeter of the city. The original gates, some of the towers, and the walls in the Oltrano area remain today as a reminder of the city’s history.
On my first day in Florence, I walked through the city aimlessly and came upon one of the remaining city gates. At the time, I had no idea I was at the Torrino di Santa Rosa. All I knew was that in front of me was a piece of history, the likes of which I would never find in my own city. I looked up in awe at the tower, the gate, and the wall stretching down the length of the road. For the first time, I felt the impact of standing in an ancient city and breathing its history.
Throughout my time here, I’ve been lucky enough to see many of the walls’ remaining parts. Located in the Oltrano area of the city, it is easy to visit the walls today. You can walk beside them with no ticket required. The Torrino di Santa Rosa is right near the river and nearly impossible to miss. You can also visit Porta San Niccolὸ – the only city gate to maintain its original height. For only four euros, you can even climb to the top and look out across the city. Also in the San Niccolò district of the Oltrarno is the Porta San Miniato. Rather than a tower shape, this porta is built as an entrance within city walls that are still standing and the road leading away from the city center connects to the San Miniato al Monte church, hence the name.
I’ve also learned a lot about the walls themselves. Florence was founded around 59 B.C. as the Roman city of Florentia. In the second century, the walls were built out of tradition rather than for defensive purposes. The Roman Empire, at the time, expanded into France and Germany so it would have been rather difficult to attack Florence.
Over the centuries, the walls have been rebuilt, expanded, and restored five times since their original construction. Most of these adjustments were made because of the city’s growing population and the need to keep citizens under military protection. The surviving version of the walls were planned in 1284 but the work didn’t start until 1298. In this iteration, the city gates were set up for the first time and the walls were finally completed in 1333. They stood at 35 metres tall, enclosed 650 hectares of land, and ran a perimeter of 8.5 kilometres.
Then, in 1865, Florence became the capital of Italy for five brief years. However, the city, which had mostly retained its medieval style, had to adjust to the new demands placed on it as capital. Giuseppe Poggi, a Florentine architect and engineer, was commissioned to design an urban renovation of the city. He was chosen for his ability to blend neo-Renaissance style with modern trends. Along with giving the city a wealthy and celebratory look, he was tasked with creating housing and facilities for government employees, and defending the city against a potential flood from the Arno. His ultimate goal was to expand the city limits. He did so by tearing down the old walls and surrounding the city with the Viali di Circonvallazione – a system of large roadways – instead. He left the ancient city gates standing as well as the walls in the Oltrano area.
Knowing all of this, I returned again to the ancient city walls to look upon the years of history in front of me. What started as a Roman tradition had turned into the first line of defense against the siege of Emperor Henry IV and now stood as an ancient artifact, a symbol of the city’s history and its age. In my six weeks here, I have found many signs of Florence’s past and its love for preserving it, but it’s the city walls that call to me. I can hear their stories, walk alongside them and pretend, just for a moment, that they’re here to protect me and the culture of this beautiful city.
Porta San Niccolὸ – Piazza Poggi
June 24 – September 30
Guided tours every 30 minuts from 5 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.
English speaking guides are available.
Tickets: €4
For information/reservations:
Call 055-2768224 or email info@muse.comune.fi.it
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Piazza della Repubblica will host another one of its Mercatale events for the public. The market is normally held the first weekend of each month welcoming residents and tourists alike. The next market will be held on June 3rd and 4th from 8:30 to 19:30. There will be 84 producers at the event, 46 of which are from the province of Florence. Others are from the surrounding provinces such as Prato, Siena, and Arezzo. Visitors can browse long booths full of wine, oil, vegetables, fruit, truffles, and other freshly grown produce. In addition, there will be some typical products from the area including salami, cheese, and honey. The variety of vendors allows passersby to try many authentic foods such as “necci” biscuits of the Tuscan Appennino. For the rest of the spring and summer seasons, the market will rotate between Piazza Repubblica, Piazza del Carmine, and Piazza Santa Maria Novella.
By Lauren Fulton
