Featured – Page 7 – Finding Florence

Having Family in Florence: What I Taught and What I Learned

Photo by author

By Gregg Casazza

For two weeks my family visited me in Florence. I got to show them around the ancient city, and was eager to teach them about everything I learned. Surprisingly, throughout this experience I ended up learning quite a bit as well.

Family is everything in Italy. It is not altogether uncommon to find three generations of a family living in one house, children are in-part raised by their countless aunts and uncles, and family meals are some of the most important events in the day. Being from an Italian family myself, being away from them for so long has been quite difficult. However, the separation has taught me a lot, and has especially helped me with my own personal growth.

It wasn’t until I had the pleasure of having my family visit me, that I realized just how much I had learned throughout my Study Abroad experience “on my own.” At the beginning of the semester, time after time I was told, “You will learn your way around the city completely,” and although I am usually quite bad with directions, these people were right. I no longer needed Google Maps to navigate the city, I didn’t need Yelp to suggest restaurants, I didn’t need TripAdvisor to find things to do or see in the city. My parents remarks at how impressive it was that I knew the city so well.

I became like a tour guide for my family, on their own private tour of Florence. Showing my family around the city was in one way a test of how much I had learned about the ancient city, but also a farewell tour around my favorite spots and locales. Things like the legacy of the Medici family, hidden gardens and piazze, as well as the numerous cafes and libraries were all a bit bittersweet to visit again, but also surprised me on just how much I had learned by walking the many winding streets of the city. Even little things like the train system which at first felt impossibly foreign, now seemed almost second-nature. I taught my family about ordering meals or coffees, using different currency, picking wine, the history of Florence, and other seemingly smalls tasks that had become utterly mundane to me, but had contributed to my overall learning experience.

Learning about Florence was not the only way I grew however, I also grew personally as well. Study abroad allowed me a greater sense of independence. I learned my place in a global context, learned how to be alone, and how to be self-sufficient. Shopping for meals in and of itself can be an act of self-sufficiency, but knowing where to shop, how to get the freshest produce, and the best prices are also a huge part of personal growth in Florence, and shows a lot of maturity. Using what I had learned, I cooked for my family during their visit using the freshest vegetables and meats, I made traditional Tuscan dishes, Antipasto, Primo, Secondo, and Contorno, and I realized how much I had grown as a person, and how much being in Florence helped me to “grow-up” as well.

Being with family in Italy, just makes sense. Being away for so long was really tough, but after I made it through that hurdle, Study Abroad started to really work for me. In only one semester I became more integrated into Florentine life, learned about the country, and about myself, and it took my family being here for me to really see it for myself.

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The Farther You Go, the Better it Gets!

By Jenna Berman

Before studying abroad in Florence, I was sent nearly 10 different “guides” – each one claiming to know the “best place to eat penne with red sauce” or the “most incredible gelato spot.” Yet no one told me about San Frediano neighborhood in the Florentine “Oltrarno.” It was not until I met a local family friend for lunch that she advised me to visit the town crowned “the coolest neighborhood in the world” by Lonely Planet. Finally, three months later, as instructed by my Writing in Digital Media instructor, I set out to make my own opinion about the famous neighborhood across the river.

It is in San Frediano that the chaos of Florence fades, the streets and sidewalks get a bit narrower, the buildings appear even older, and the shiny, brand names are replaced with local artisan shops, quaint cafes, and authentic Italian restaurants. Something about the ora feels just a little more authentic, cozy, and surreal.

As I roamed the streets, stopping into a neighborhood bake shop that smelled of warm, homemade bread and chocolate-goodness, I came across Cara Jansen, 21, who is attending Syracuse University in Florence while living with a host family in San Frediano. “It’s just cooler,” Jansen said. “Everything feels more honest and authentic here.”

San Frediano is a residential district that possesses Florentine treasures such as the Basilica of Santa Maria del Carmine and the church of Santo Spirito. But don’t be fooled by its simplicity – because it is there where the beauty of the neighborhood rests. Merely minutes away from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding areas, parts of San Frediano feel so quiet, I can almost hear my own footsteps.

I sat down at a local restaurant for a quick bite where I spoke to a nice, young local couple sitting next to me. The couple married almost two years ago and reside in a “charming” home tucked away in San Frediano. Although our conservation was interrupted with a tough language barrier, I asked them both how they would describe the neighborhood. The husband, with kind eyes, looked over at his wife and smiled.

“It’s home. A beautiful town that we call home” he said. His wife smiled back, chuckled, and turned to me and sighed.

“I grew up in Rome,” she told me. “I never thought I would love anywhere more – until I moved here.”

On my walk back from San Frediano to Santa Croce, I could not help but feel I just experienced a different world. Maybe it was the love of the married couple, the smell of the delicious baked goods, or the charm of historic streets. But I finally understand Lonely Planet – I may have just encountered “the coolest neighborhood in the world.”

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Allergies, Ailments, and Ancient Pharmacies

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By Gregg Casazza

If the thin layer of yellow pollen that covers the city isn’t already enough of an indicator, allergy season is now upon us. Scratchy eyes, sore throats, and stuffy noses seem to plague the entire city. Thanks to the city’s storied past, you can now easily stop by the local farmacia to get the appropriate modern medicine for nearly any ailment. The history of Florence is forever tied with that of the ancient pharmacies, which housed herbal remedies for anything from heartache to the black plague. What is perhaps most astounding about these ancient places of healing is that many are still open and operating today!

The Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is frequently touristed, and for good reason. This farmacia is the “oldest historic pharmacy in the whole of Europe, active without interruption for almost 4 centuries” as well as, “one of the oldest commercial establishments ever,” according to their website. This establishment began as a convent, with Dominican friars preparing essences, elixirs, ointments, and balsams using high quality ingredients and recipes that can still be found displayed today. The pharmacy is now a luxurious shop, specializing in perfume, as well as a free “museum of tradition.”

Another lesser known farmacia is the Ancient Boar Pharmacy, or Antica Farmacia del Cinghiale. Looking at the earliest official documents, there are mentions that this farmacia dates back to 1752. However, it is believed that it is actually much older. Similar to that of Santa Maria Novella, the early pharmacists made their own remedies, and the first documented pharmacist working, Girolamo Nicolò Branchi della Torre, prepared his own remedies in his private laboratory. His contributions were so notable that he has been accredited with moving the science of healing past the “magic of alchemy” to the science of chemistry. These contributions were so widespread that the Grand Duke of Tuscany asked him to open the first School of Chemistry in Pisa in 1757.

Many ancient pharmacies make up the history of Florence. There is Farmacia SS. Annunziata, which is also still in operation as well, and has been in operation since roughly 1561. They continue to utilize older traditions of preparing products such as tooth paste, shaving lotion, products for hygiene, skin, and galenic prescription (the combination of multiple medecines to increase their potency.) While these ancient pharmacies have changed a great deal in the many centuries since their inception, they have stayed largely the same as well. They may no longer be run by the Dominican monks however, many of the same recipes and natural ingredients are still being used to create their products. These pharmacies might seem ancient, but in a lot of ways they are rather progressive as well by not using animal-testing for their products. Ancient pharmacies are part of Florence’s strong heritage, and with so many still open today, perhaps consider checking one out the next time you suffer from allergies.

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An Exhibition With a View

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By Samantha Bedell

Samantha Bedell shares her experience visiting Villa Bardini in Florence. Villa Bardini is located in the Bardini Gardens and currently exhibits one permanent and two temporary exhibitions.

Villa Bardini (not to be confused with the Bardini Museum, please learn from my misunderstanding) is on the “other side” of the Arno. Located in the Bardini Gardens, this building exhibits Pietro Annigoni, a variety of artists for the children’s show, and Kang Woongu. The Villa was abnormally quiet, but expected on a beautiful Florentine day. Walking through the space, the only other people I encountered were two security guards. It was quite relaxing to have two floors to myself.

On the second floor is the Villa’s permanent exhibition by artist Pietro Annigoni. Housing many of his important works, its clear Annigoni focused much of his career on portraiture. Many of the portraits are larger than life and command the space. In the final room of Annigoni’s work, the viewer is greeted by a rather intimidating portrait of a man staring at the viewer. Behind the portrait are tattered dummies that look as if they’re simply lounging on the staircase. Personally, I found this room slightly uncomfortable, especially by myself.

The third floor displays two temporary exhibitions. The first exhibition Pinocchio Harry Potter Topolino Heidi e tutti gli altri… is seemingly aimed at children, but adults will equally enjoy the artworks. There are images inspired by Harry Potter, the Three Musketeers, and the Tortoise and the Hare. The dozens of works will remind anyone of their childhood. Down the hallway is the second temporary exhibition by Kang Woongu. The photographs were taken forty five years ago and highlight the lives of Koreans in every season before the country’s industrialization. Woongu‘s photographs provide an intimate look at a country that is completely different today.

Villa Bardini is open year round and opening hours are 10:00-19:00. The gardens are also open with varying times throughout the year. Both are absolutely worth visiting during the spring and summer when all the flowers in the garden are in bloom.

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Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio has my heart

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By Gregg Casazza

Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio is a small park just a short walk away from Santa Croce, and I am absolutely in love with it.

There is something truly magical about the parks in Florence. Perhaps it is the fact that you so seldom see grass in the ancient stone city, or the fact that when sunlight streams through the tall slender trees, golden light dances all around the square. The soothing refuge these parks offer from the hustle-and-bustle of the city is much appreciated, and not lost on me one bit. However, finding one of these hidden treasures can be very hard for a casual traveler, and often the parks that CAN be found are just as busy as the rest of the city. So I found it rather shocking that a place as serene and inviting as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio was only a quick walk from the city center.

This park and its surrounding neighborhoods hardly feel like they are a part of the Historic Center of Florence, and if not for the map, I wouldn’t believe it myself. The park is nestled right next to Viale Antonio Gramsci, and the walls of the old city. D’Azeglio is the best of both worlds, an area that feels different from a city, and more like a small town that you would find in a remote village in Italy, but still very close to the center of Florence. As such there are numerous luxury brands, and expensive places to visit in this area as well, including the Four Seasons hotel and its ancient Renaissance garden.

The neighborhood is a mixture of stately apartments, and small parks the likes of which stand in clear contrast to the rampant tourism and chaos of nearby areas such as Santa Croce and Palazzo Vecchio. Children run through the playground free of cares, like loose cannons running headlong past their friends who try to touch the sky on the swings. A group of boys play soccer, occasionally kicking their ball over the fence. Nobody goes to get it, they simply yell for their ball and wait, knowing one of the locals will happily assist. Near the center of the park is a beautiful carrousel. The small green ride lights up, and plays a cheerful tune which wafts through the air in the park, a few children go round and round, you can almost hear their smiles.

Most striking about the park however, is the community which uses the public space as their meeting grounds. Dog walkers stop to talk while their dogs play amongst each other, a daily activity for some. Older men stop to chat with their grocery bags stuffed with fresh produce bought from the nearby Sant Ambrogio market, or perhaps a delicious calzoni from Rocco. Couples sit on the benches, sharing an umbrella as they sit for hours, they wave to their friends and neighbours as they pass by on their bikes.

Named after Massimo Taparelli the Marquess of Azeglio (commonly called Massimo d’Azeglio) this park represents a lot for many people. D’Azeglio, who famously fought against the Austrians for Italian liberation, was also a prime minister and the leader of the movement that advocated an Italian national revival. His legacy is remembered in parks such as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio.

There are so many places in Florence that are strikingly beautiful, but seem a bit hollow, like they lack the soul of the city. This is not true of Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio which seems utterly lived in, and yet still completely magical. I know that this park has my heart, and will have yours too.

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The Artists Behind It All

By Molli A. Browne
All photos by the author

Photography student Molli A. Browne captures meaningful street art in Florence.

Dhai Studio located on Via di S. Niccolò is home to three of the most popular street artists in Florence. The studio is small in size but filled with inspiring and accessible art. At Dhai studio, you will find art by Blub, Enter/Exit, and Carla Bruttini. These are the artists behind the amazing street art that fills our city. Blub is known for creating underwater paintings, almost all of his figures having scuba masks on. His art is colourful, playful, and filled with imagination. Blub’s identity still remains unknown, which makes him and his art even more interesting. Next we have Enter/Exit, usually found right near or next to Blub’s work. Enter/Exit is most known for their colourful red balloons and small figures. Carla Bruttini is most popularly known for her painting on Via S. Niccolò of the woman with bright red hair. Carla Bruttini’s work symbolizes peace, power, and strength.

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Cooking Like A Local

By Molli A. Browne
All photos by the author

Photography student Molli A. Browne shares her farm to table experience cooking like a local.

Spring has sprung in Florence and people from all over the world are coming to visit. The streets are crowded and the markets are filled with tourists, locals, and fresh seasonal vegetables. During my first couple of weeks here, I noticed that almost every dish I ordered had zucchini in it. I did my research and quickly realized zucchini is in season from late March to early September. I decided that I should go out on my own and cook a meal like a local. Of course, I had to use zucchini.

As I was walking home from class, I discovered a small fruit and vegetable stand at the end of Borgo Pinti. They had ample amounts of farm fresh zucchini for an incredible price. They also had fresh garlic, lemon and cheese. I used all of these ingredients to make my pasta dish. This dish is spaghetti in a lemon garlic white wine sauce topped with baked zucchini flowers.

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Via dei Malcontenti

By Molli A. Browne
All photos by the author

Via dei Malcontenti is the street the Florentine prisoners would walk down before being excecuted. Via dei Malcontenti connects Via delle Casine to Piazza Piave. Today, the street consists of apartments, a church, and a school. During the day, the road is quiet and calming. The following set of images are what a prisoner would have seen walking down Via dei Malcontenti before the execution.

Photography student Molli A. Browne imagines the final moments of a prisoner walking down Via dei Malcontenti.

I pray for forgiveness, I pray for my sins.

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Scenes from San Martino: Duomo of Lucca

Photo by Hannah Sanders Photo by Tomie Martel

By Travel Writing Students

This post captures two intriguing figures depicted at Lucca’s main cathedral. A mysterious woman who tragically died at 24, and an artist’s attempt to capture the holy nature of Christ. Explore the peculiarity of silence and the power of the divine in the following stories, uncovered by FUA students at a recent Field Learning experience for the Travel Writing course.

Sleeping Beauty in the Silent City
By Hannah Sanders

Even on a cold and foggy morning, the silence of Lucca is inviting. The city’s silence wraps around me like a warm robe slipped on after a shower. The stillness carries me through the streets, wet from the rain, and leads me into the Cathedral. There, a beautiful woman lies colder and more silent than the city itself.

I can tell she has lived in the quietness of Lucca for quite some time. She does not speak or move, and she too is cloaked in Lucca’s robe of silence. Her hands are delicately placed over one another and her eyes remain closed, she looks as though she is in a trance.

An English guide introduces me to the sleeping beauty: her name is Ilaria Del Carretto. She was the wife of Paolo Guinigi, the Lord of Lucca, who ruled from 1400 to 1430. Ilaria’s royalty and high rank is evident through her contemporary gothic clothing. At her feet lies a small dog, looking over his shoulder to protect his master. I look to the guide to seek what the sleeping beauty needs protection from, and learn Ilaria suffered a death following the birth of her second child. She was only 24.

The silence is loud now. The cold air shoots shivers down my spine. Thoughts flood my head. Such a beautiful queen, sculpted from white marble by the artist Jacopo della Quercia, was taken from the world much too soon. Her tomb commemorating her life appears so pure, yet her story contains a tragedy. The silence of Lucca no longer seems so inviting.

The Holy Visage
By Tomie Martel

Sitting before the Holy Visage, one can immediately feel a sense of importance and sacredness. Housed in the Cattedrale di San Martino, the carving of Jesus, that depicts him fully clothed and seemingly unharmed was created in the 11^th century by an artist named Nicodemus. Nicodemus felt that he was unable to fully do justice to the true face of Jesus, so he carved the body and went to sleep, leaving the face undone. The next morning, he awoke to the visage having been created by unknown hands. From then on, the creation was seen as a miracle.

The second miracle involving this work of art came once it was transported to Italy. The carving was placed on an ox-pulled cart, and without instruction the ox took it to Lucca, where it was determined it was miraculously meant to be housed. It is due to these miracles that every year on September 13^th, people from all over Tuscany come to pray to the visage for miracles, or guidance through life.

The Luminara di Santa Croce takes place the 13^th of every September, whereby the Holy Visage is dressed in extremely lavish additional garments, including a larger crown, a collar, belt, and silver shoes, all of which are housed in the nearby museum of the cathedral.

With its dark wood, deep carvings, and gold detailing, The Holy Face of Lucca exemplifies the divine. Christ is portrayed as powerful, standing upright so as to emphasise his holiness. It is abundantly evident why this work of art is seen miraculous as well as beautiful.

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Experiencing a Religion: Welcome to Fiorentina

By Sean Ahern

Football is not merely a sport here in Florence. It has a much higher purpose than that. The city revolves around the club, the Viola. As a first timer attending a European football game, this was nirvana.

It was a typical Florentine Friday as I enjoyed my one class when my roommate and I decided to get tickets to the Fiorentina and Juventus game during the night. As a football superfan, I was more than willing to partake within this rivalry as I have only seen and heard insane things when it came down to this game. Time moved slowly as my anticipation grew to a fever pitch. Suiting up with my Fiorentina jacket, I was ready to toss away my tourist status and become a local. Walking over to the stadium, I heard the fans’ chants grow louder and louder. This surely was not just another Friday night football game, this was going to be war.

Heading to our seats, we noticed the sheer amount of people that were packed into the stadium and realized that this was something that was not of the ordinary. Excitement filled the stadium while the Fiorentina fans sang the songs of the club. I have personally never heard a louder stadium and the voices grew louder with every shot, every foul, and every pass.

Although Fiorentina lost the game two to nil, the atmosphere is something that I will never forget. It was my first real foray as a citizen of this wonderful city, and even though I will forget the names of the restaurants and the gelato places, I will never forget this game.

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