By Steven Scaglione
Sometimes the well-traveled roads lead to unexpected finds, such as the Sammezzano Castle that is at the center of a movement to save a now-abandoned architectural gem.
After stepping out of a two-story charter bus in little Leccio, Italy, I took a breath and surveyed my surroundings. I was at The Mall, which is not a luxury shopping mall but a luxury shopping “destination,” specializing in high fashion brands like Salvatore Ferragamo, Burberry and – maybe more fittingly named – Billionaire started by Italian entrepreneur Flavio Briatore. Though the stores would not open for another 20 minutes, already a line of eager shoppers had neatly queued in front of the Gucci and Prada outlets, talking among themselves with an electric excitement. Soon they would be pulling green suits and bright dresses from the racks, but I would not be among them. I was headed for a different kind of treasure: Sammezzano Castle, only a short hike away.
The castle lies at the top of Sammezzano Park’s central hill, overlooking the town below like a silent, stoic patriarch. The park is home to many exotic species of plants, including the species of giant sequoias native to California. One of them, known as “Sequoia Gemella,” or the “Twin Sequoia” in English, is more than 8.4 meters (27 feet) in diameter and 50 meters (164 feet) tall.
From the outside, the castle’s Moorish-style architecture is a mix of Spanish, Arabic, and Oriental influences. Inside “La Sala dei Pavoni,” or “The Room of the Peacocks” in English, is arguably its most beautiful feature, with mosaics of every color stretching from floor to ceiling.
Unfortunately, the castle is currently closed to the public, falling victim to littering and vandalism. One organization, Save Sammezzano, has been fighting to preserve and protect the now abandoned castle and surrounding park. A petition by the group ended with over 30,000 signatures, but the castle is now privately owned, making it difficult for the municipal government institutions to safeguard it. The future for any restoration is uncertain, but the cause has found great support on social media. For now, the castle remains as it has been for many years, the hands on its clock stopped at 11:28, waiting for the day they might turn again.
