May 2016 – Finding Florence

Lorenzo the Gondolier

Photo by GaborfromHungary via Morguefile.com

By Mikayla Rendall

Certain things and places become the cultural icons of a city. It’s enough to mention the David, Duomo, and Boboli Gardens for most travelers to immediately associate them to Florence; they’ve become by now not only icons of culture but also mass tourism. Venice, another highly visited Italian city, immediately conjures up Piazza San Marco, canals, gondolas, and lavish Carnevale celebrations. FUA student Mikayla Rendall took tourism a step further by not only going on a gondola ride but interviewing the gondoliere for his perspective as a Venetian local.

When did you become a gondolier?
I was born and raised in Venice and started giving gondola rides about eight years ago. I‘m now living on the other side of Venice because of the high expenses of living on the canal.

What made you decide to become a gondolier?
I love being on the water. Venice is beautiful and after living here for 33 years I knew this was something I want to do for a long time.

How did you learn this craft?
I learned as young man since my father had his own gondola but I got my own license to become a professional gondolier later on.

What year did the gondolas originate?
They are extremely old and go back to the 11^th century, but there have been many changes over time time to make them stronger and larger.

What are the gondolas made of?
Gondolas are a flat-bottomed boat made of many pieces and eight different types of wood. The oar of the gondola is made from beech and are made for the narrow canals in Venice and quick maneuvers.

How deep are the canals?
The grand canal is around 18-20 feet and most other canals are about 8 feet. When high tide comes sometimes we cannot provide rides because the water is too high and the boats don’t fit under the bridges. The water levels keep getting higher so now no one can live on the first floor of the apartments that are on the canal.

What does this mean for the future?
Gondola rides may not be available on city canals if water levels keep rising. We will not fit under the bridges because they are not high enough and the boat is tall in the front and back.

What is the busiest season for gondola rides?
Carnival in February is a busy time for tourists and in the spring. Gondola rides are requested solely by tourists, most locals don’t get on.

How often do you work and for how long?
During busy days I will work up to six times every week. I usually work ten-hour days. On the slower months, I work less so my schedule is always changing.

What is your favorite part about being a gondolier?
Getting to know people from all around the world and showing them the beauty of Venice.

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Exploring Culture Through Italian Cuisine

By Morgan O’Reilly

With clamped eyelids and the flicker of a burning candle, I contemplated my wish. As my life’s dream reemerged back into my conscious thought, my eyes flicked open, I peeked at the wax “10” in front of me, and I blew. Underneath, in place of a conventional birthday cake, lay a cannoli; I looked up from the red checkerboard table and saw my cheering family under the light of the Macaroni Grill sign. My wish was to travel; little did I know that I would be enjoying an authentic Italian meal in Florence only 10 years later.

Growing up, I had always loved food. I sat at dinner tables scooping mussels from shells and openly trying international cuisine. To this day, I actively search for new flavor combinations and cooking techniques. Despite my culinary openness, my perception of Italian cooking has changed dramatically since my arrival in Florence. I grew up with the mac and cheese, breadsticks, and spaghetti of Italian restaurant chains back home; and despite trying my hand in Italian home cooking, I really didn’t know what the “real thing” entailed. For me, I was coming to the land of bread, cheese, and pasta; and I was 100% fine with that.

Upon arrival, I aimlessly wandered Florence’s winding streets as I gripped my list of recommended panino and aperitivo places. After tasting some of Italy’s fresh pasta and coming to the harsh realization that meatballs are not an actual thing here, I realized how skewed my perception on this lifestyle was. My day to day life in town surprisingly never included the bread or pasta-induced food comas of the “Italian” food that I was accustomed to, and instead, I felt physically and mentally satisfied with what I was putting into my body. In fact, although the study abroad 15 has proved an irritating reality, I have never felt as good about the food I was consuming.

After a few weeks, once the initial excitement died down, I started to eat in more. Whether at the farmer’s market or grocery store, I slowly began appreciating the seasonality and freshness of what I was consuming. Although eating in does not seem like the optimal way to seize the day while abroad, learning to utilize fresh, regional ingredients in simple recipes gave me a deeper appreciation for the food I was eating and for Italian culture. My roommates and I have made everything from roasted vegetables to pork chops to shrimp with lemon asparagus; and the simple act of learning to work with seasonal, simple ingredients has shown me more about Italian culture than I would have ever expected.

Looking back, my experience with food while abroad and my deeper appreciation for what I eat has mirrored my sense of appreciation for all aspects of culture. Like expanding my knowledge on the slow food movement, biodynamic farming, and the third wave coffee movement through conversations with locals, I have learned to step out of my comfort zone and challenge my perception of Italy, travelling, and on life in general. This experience has opened my eyes to finding value and culture in the tiniest of details; whether it be a tablespoon of olive oil, my daily walk past the Santa Croce, or a genuine conversation with friends from around the world. Above all else, studying abroad has taught me to openly seek out culture in every aspect of living, and it is something I cannot wait to apply beyond the walls of the city I now call my home.

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The Intricacies of Life in a Renaissance City

By Leanora Karnath

White marble, red and green lines of color, ornate details covering every inch of its facade, copper ball protruding into the sky. Before arriving for the semester, I knew of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, better known as the Duomo of Florence, but little about its historical or cultural significance within Italy as a European country. My feelings towards one of Florence’s most popular landmarks have evolved throughout my time abroad.

When I first saw the church, I was astounded by its massive size. I strained my neck, scanning the entire length of the front side with hungry eyes. I saw the Duomo in its entirety– the lines of color, the white marble, and the large wooden doors.

After the thrill of the first sighting, I learned that people use the church as a meeting point which frustrated me. Whenever someone said to meet by the Duomo, my body grew tense. Where? I thought. This thing is too big.

I soon became accustomed to walking past the Duomo each day. I hadn’t thought much about the church after my first month abroad other than wishing it wasn’t my usual route to class when flocks of tourists visited, making my route longer than usual.

As I stepped away from the Duomo, I realized its functional purpose. When I would become lost around Florence, I simply walked down a few streets and waited to see the Duomo’s copper ball and spherical top. Though I was aware of the Duomo’s presence, I solely viewed it for its practical use.

My indifference began to shift right before my parents’ visit halfway through the semester. Because of my dad’s interest in architecture and history, he read a book about the Duomo before his arrival entitled Brunelleschi’s Dome: How a Renaissance Genius Reinvented Architecture. He asked me, “Did you know they didn’t even use buttresses to support the weight of the Duomo? And that the copper ball fell off in the 1500’s?” I didn’t. I felt ashamed that I had failed to learn much about a monument that stands only five minutes away from my apartment.

As the lines became longer for everything in April, I knew it was time I climbed the Duomo. I purchased my ticket, woke up early on a Wednesday morning, and waited in line. As I began walking up the steep steps, a rush of energy overwhelmed my body. I thought of all the people who did the same hundreds of years ago, the ones who dedicated their lives to create such a beautiful combination of art and architecture to create a place for worship. And, now I was climbing to the top.

Later that same day, I entered the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and marveled at the displays and the information that accompanied them. It was fascinating to learn about the comprehensive history behind such an influential monument that I was lucky to see on a daily basis. I stepped out of the museum and the Duomo greeted me; my mouth immediately curled into a smile. Wow, I thought.

As I reflect on the semester, I have realized that the Duomo isn’t simply one singular piece of architecture that can be absorbed and processed from one sighting. It’s comprised of many pieces and the tiniest of details: the distinct expressions on the face of numerous statues, the marbled spirals in the windows, the gold streaks of the paintings. I neglected to see all of these intricacies when I first arrived.

These intricacies have not only been present in the Duomo’s structure but also my daily life in Florence: the scent of finocchiona floating in the air as I pass a panino shop, the familiar faces of street musicians, a small piece of colorful street art poking out from the ground.

The church that was once a nuisance to walk around has become a reassuring point of reference, a sign that I had returned home after a long day or weekend of traveling, and a sense of stability in a semester that presented new experiences and challenges each week. During my last few weeks in Florence, I take a little extra time to find a small detail that had previously gone unnoticed. It never fails.

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What You Really Need to Know About Gelato

By Leanora Karnath and Morgan O’Reilly

Gelato can be found in virtually every street corner in Florence. As a Florentine delicacy, locals and visitors stroll the streets with a cone in hand no matter the season. Over the years, because of its touristic popularity, traditional, quality gelato has become more and more of a rarity. We sat down with Vetulio Bondi, owner of I Gelati del Bondi and president of the Florence Gelato Association, to gain insight into recognizing quality, authentic gelato in Florence. Bondi has also taught a gelato making course at Apicius. We’ve narrowed down our interview with him into 3 simple steps to keep handy when trying out new gelaterie.

1. Read the Ingredients

Fresh, authentic gelato should not need any preservatives or extra fat. The main ingredient should be fresh milk and the sugar used should lead to a smooth, “warm” gelato, as opposed to a sweeter, colder treat that was popular in the 80s.

Bondi also attributes his high quality gelato to his strong relationships with the hazelnut, pistachio, and produce farmers that he works with.

2. Order In-Season Flavors

It is easy to overlook the environmental difference of ordering mango sorbet in the winter as opposed to pear. Bondi prefers serving in-season, local flavors to cut down on food miles. “In Europe, we try to follow the seasons, so in the summer, it is much better to eat the peach sorbet than the mango sorbet because the mangos will be coming from Brazil, so it can cause pollution and peach sorbet, melon sorbet, watermelon sorbet, and plum sorbet is amazing.” If you want to know what is in season when, here is a list.

3. “When You See a Mountain, Turn Around”

Like any tourist destination, flashy fakes are everywhere. When looking for authentic gelato shops, steer clear of the mountain-high, neon window displays. These are often made with artificial flavors, colors, oil, and fat. You want to spend your time seeking out neutral colored, simpler displays. Some places will cover the gelato with lids, which usually means they made it that morning.

If you have time, stop by I Gelati del Bondi. Our personal favorites are his peach, salted caramel, pistachio, hazelnut chocolate, or cherry.

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Schiacciata Throwdown!

Schiacciata sandwich in Florence. Photo by the authors.

By Deborah Glasso, Leanora Karnath, Morgan O’Reilly

Schiacciata is a typical flatbread of the Tuscany region used to prepare panini. In English, the word translates to “crushed” or “flattened.” If you’ve lived in the Tuscany region, unsalted bread is probably what first comes to mind when thinking of bread products. In contrast, schiacciata is sprinkled with coarse salt grains, giving consumers a burst of flavor coupled with other ingredients in a panino. Made with flour, yeast, water, salt, and olive oil, traditional schiacciata should be crispy, but not hard. Also, the olive oil should not produce a greasy feeling but be enough to complement the mix of ingredients.

After learning about schiacciata in Florence, we decided to extend our research one step further with some tastings and then compare our findings.

Morgan – soft or crispy?

After living in Florence for three months, I have fallen in love with Schiacciata. From trying too many places than I would like to admit, I realized I prefer a crispier crust with a fluffy center as opposed to a thinner, chewier flatbread I usually get at All’Antico Vinaio. My personal favorite spot is Sandwichic because they use just enough olive oil and salt to make the flatbread crispy and flavorful. The Oil Shoppe also deserves a mention for their softer, circular schiacciata that I also enjoy.

SandwiChic: Via San Gallo, 3
Al’Antico Vinaio: Via dei Neri, 74/R

Lea – olive oil in each bite

After trying many different panino shops, I found Due Sorsi e un Boccone (“two sips and a bite”) which has become my favorite place for a quick bite. I was happy to discover the consumers were mostly Italian which has always been helpful to seek out local spots. I love how the schiacciata is crispy but not too hard as I’ve tried some places where the schiacciata can scrape the roof of my mouth, leaving an unpleasant sensation. I also view the schiacciata as characteristic of the traditional staple because of its olive oil you can taste with each bite. The taste does not distract from any of the other ingredients but enhances the overall experience of eating a panino and indulging your taste buds.

Due Sorsi e un Boccone: Via degli Alfani, 105

Deborah – great ingredients, great sandwiches

Being a Florentine, I believe that All’Antico Vinaio is one of the few places that offers good street food. The schiacciata is crushed with sbriciolona, a cured meat with fennel seeds, so we can say it is a must-try in Florence.

The Prosciutteria is another great place to try this traditional Tuscan favorite, just a few doors down from All’Antico Vinaio. Vinaino Di Parte Guelfa also offers tasty sandwiches with typical Tuscan and Florentine ingredients.

Vinaino Di Parte Guelfa: Via Val di Lamona, 6
La Prosciutteria: Via dei Neri, 54r

Our Findings

From recommendations of professors and other locals, our tastings led us to the discovery that despite schiacciata’s status as a Tuscan staple, various places prepare the bread in different ways. While some may be very crispy on the outside, others are softer which results in a more chewy bite. The “best” panino shop is subjective because people enjoy their breads in different ways. The staple has evolved and each panino shop has their own take on how to prepare it.

What’s your favorite place?

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