By Meredith Bach
All around Florence, landscapes are changing as October comes to a close. Colored leaves pepper the trees and scatter through the streets, residents sport sweaters and coats, and the wind carries on with a little more bite across the Arno. Across the city, most restaurants and shops stay the same, although there are a select few that change their scenery. Between buildings and in corners of Florence, there are hints of Halloween decorations that emerge at the end of the month—but why only so few? With the holiday at the end of the month, one is left to wonder how Florence celebrates, if at all. Is Halloween a thing in Italy? What about the pumpkins and the costumes? How is Halloween celebrated in this part of the world?
The classic renditions of trick-or-treating and haunted houses aren’t so common in Italy. Some supermarkets sell pumpkin-carving kits, and a few businesses may pass out candy, but there isn’t much tradition happening in Italy on October 31st. Italians do have a long history of celebrating the dead, however.
On November 1st, Italians celebrate All Saint’s Day, or Festa di Tutti I Santi. Also known as All Hallow’s Day, this holiday is used to commemorate all the saints of the Christian church, both known and unknown, who have attained heaven. As a national holiday, many banks and businesses in Italy are closed on this day. November 2nd is The Day of the Dead, or Festa dei Morti. This is a day to celebrate and remember those who have passed by visiting a cemetery to clean the graves of the deceased or attending church. People may also make dolci dei morti, or cakes of the dead, to celebrate. There are a myriad of traditions that transpire across the country on these two days, varying from region to region.
In many places, participants are encouraged to leave out food or wine for the souls that wander in the living world on the Day of the Dead. In Puglia, such a celebration is called ‘fucacoste e cocce priatorje,” or bonfire and heads of the purgatory. Residents will set up long tables outside filled with food for the dead. Between November 1st and 2nd, on the “Night of Purgatory” people carve pumpkins with the symbol of the cross on it to drive away the souls of the damned so only the good souls can enjoy the gifts that have been left for them.
In Sardinia, partakers prepare dinners of macaroni, handmade pasta, glasses of wine, and jugs of water for the wandering souls. It is typical that these dinners are assembled with no cutlery and an oil lamp to let the souls eat in comfort.
Other places encourage people to service the dead through acts of charity. In Tuscany, within the providence of Massi Carrara, this is called bèn d’i morti. Here, partakers may donate food to shelters or organize lunches where all neighbors can share.
There are still forms of trick-or-treating as well. In Sicily, well-behaved children will receive a cannistro, or a basket full of toys and sweets, that is believed to be gifted by dead relatives. In a typical cannistro, one will find frutta di Martorana, marzipan and almond flour in any kind of fruit or vegetable. This tradition, titled fiera dei morti, has become so popular recently that there are even stores that pop up just around this time to sell cannistros for families.
In Calabria, people will carve “coccalu di muortu”, a skull into pumpkins to celebrate. Children may bring these around with them saying “mi lu pagati lu coccalu” or “will you pay my skull?” as a form of trick-or-treating.
As for Florence, residents enjoy an annual Halloween run as a way to get their blood pumping. The event follows a 4k route through Cascine Park, Florence’s biggest green space in the city. Participants are encouraged to run in their most creative costumes for the chance to win a prize at the end.
For those interested, registration is open until 7:30 pm on Halloween night, October 31st. Registration is 15 euros until the 30th and can be paid online. Any last-minute registrations are 20 euros and can only be carried out in the square of the Le Pavoniere swimming pool, located on the East side of the park. The race departs at 8:00 pm.
So there you have it, an Italian Halloween. Whether you’re dining with ghouls or running as one, there is plenty to know of and do when the spooky holiday comes around this week. “Dolcetto o Scherzetto,” trick-or-treat, and Happy Halloween to all!