Warrior Monks in Medieval Tuscany

Photo by the author

By Jessica Rowe

The abbeys of San Galgano and Sant’Antimo have rich histories that are worth experiencing firsthand. Located outside of Siena, these off-the-beaten-path sites will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a different time.

This summer, students and faculty took a trip to the abbeys of San Galgano and Sant’Antimo on one of FUA’s Educational Field Trips (EFT). The EFT excursions are always well-organized, planned on a student budget, and full of educational information it might be hard to find out on your own. San Galgano and Sant’Antimo were chosen as an EFT location because they are full of historical and cultural significance. Instead of being normal tourist sites students may visit on their own, they are out of the way places that still hold on to a feeling of spirituality. Students are brought to the abbeys to gain a deeper understanding of spirituality and how it can be either connected or disconnected from structured religion.

We met at the Santa Maria Novella train station at 7 a.m. to depart for San Galgano. The trip quickly became unique as instead of heading to a busy city, we were headed out into the countryside. Large fields rolled past, some green and some gold, bringing us further away from the built environment of Florence. When we got to the first stop, our tour started at the Rotunda of Saint Galgano. It holds the tomb of Saint Galgano and the famous sword in the stone. Now, you’re probably thinking, as I was, that King Arthur wasn’t from Italy. But it’s a different sword in the stone with a lesser known tale behind it. As the legend goes, Saint Galgano heard voices calling him to the place where the rotunda now sits and there he saw a vision. He wished to renounce his knighthood so he drove his sword into the stone. For years, people tried to steal the sword but it was said to be guarded by a wolf. Inside the rotunda, the bones of a man who was eaten by the wolf are displayed.

Further out sits the Abbey of San Galgano. It was started in 1218 when the hermitage became too small to contain all the monks and pilgrims. The abbey is built in classic Gothic style and has no roof. It did, at one point, have a roof but the abbey was very poor and resorted to selling the roof piece by piece for money to keep it running. Nowadays, the abbey is funded through ticket sales and event bookings.

We stopped for lunch at Tenuta di Paganico, a local winery, before going on to Sant’Antimo. This abbey was under construction from 1393 until 1526, however it was in 781 that the idea for the abbey was formed. As the story goes, Charlemagne was returning from Rome when most of his court and army caught the plague. The Emperor had a dream where an angel told him to harvest a specific grass, dry it, mix it with some wine, and have his soldiers drink it. When he did so, everyone was cured. He vowed then to build an abbey.

Currently, the abbey houses a group of monks from the Benedictine monastic community of Santa Maria di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. These monks are referred to as Olivetan monks and their order was founded in 1318 by the Sienese Saint Bernardo Tolomei. They go about their days by focusing on prayer, reading and studying, and work. They are known by the white colour of their robes which symbolizes their devotion to the Virgin Mary.

Shelby, a student who attended the trip as an academic field learning activity for her Italian language class, arrived at Sant’Antimo with her group as a service was in progress. After it ended, the class saw all the nuns continue their prayers in the many different spiritual locations inside the abbey. She enjoyed the chance to get a look at what the abbey is currently used for and what it meant to the people who lived there.

After a long day, the trip came to a close and we headed back to Florence. Overall, I had a good time on the trip. I learned a lot about the two abbeys and saw some incredible architecture. I would recommend visiting these two abbeys and the EFT excursions to anyone looking for a fun day trip from Florence.

For more information on EFT trips:

EFT – FUA’s Educational Field Trip Logistics Team
Corso Tintori, 21, Firenze
Phone: 055/244664
E-mail: sld-eft@fua.it

studentlifeflorence.it/educational-field-trips-mission.html

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The Best Places to Draw in Florence

Photo by the author

By Jessica Rowe

We all know that Florence is a beautiful city filled with incredible sites. If you’re an artist, you might feel at a loss for where to begin drawing the scenery – fear not, we’re here to help!

Florence’s beauty deserves to be captured in art by hands of all levels, from the very professional to hobbyists. However, in a city so full of phenomenal views, it might be hard to know where to start sketching. Here is a short list of some of the best places in the city to settle down and break out your sketchbook:

  1. Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio – This piazza is a beautiful park full of leafy green trees, stone paths, benches, and a playground. There are plenty of places to sit down and relax. The environment is perfect for doing some drawings and you’ll have plenty of subjects to choose from – the greenery, the park itself, or even the surrounding buildings which have intricate stonework on their exteriors.
  2. Piazza Santa Croce – The Basilica of Santa Croce is the perfect subject for your sketchbook. Besides being breath-taking, the details on its exterior will give you plenty of practice at fine-tuning your drawing skills. There aren’t many places to sit around the building – it may be easier to find a place to sit in one of the surrounding restaurants – but the view is worth it.
  3. Lungarno delle Grazie/Ponte alle Grazie – The Lungarno della Grazie runs along the river Arno, giving you a beautiful view of the other half of the city. There are cafes here that you can sit at and look out the windows while you draw. If you go out on the Ponte alla Grazie, you’ll have an amazing view of the Ponte Vecchio. There is nowhere to sit but if you’re careful, you can lean against the railing while sketching.
  4. Piazza della Repubblica – At night, this piazza is the most beautiful place to be. In the center sits a carousel ringed with lights and street performers dance and sing nearby. Around the piazza there are nice restaurants and at its back is the wall marking the center of the city. It’s always buzzing with people and movement. There are plenty of places to sit and sketch this beautiful scene.

There are, of course, many additional beautiful places to sketch in Florence, but this list is meant to give you a place to start. Find more incredible views on your own and fill your sketchbook with the sights of Florence.

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