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By Gregg Casazza
Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio is a small park just a short walk away from Santa Croce, and I am absolutely in love with it.
There is something truly magical about the parks in Florence. Perhaps it is the fact that you so seldom see grass in the ancient stone city, or the fact that when sunlight streams through the tall slender trees, golden light dances all around the square. The soothing refuge these parks offer from the hustle-and-bustle of the city is much appreciated, and not lost on me one bit. However, finding one of these hidden treasures can be very hard for a casual traveler, and often the parks that CAN be found are just as busy as the rest of the city. So I found it rather shocking that a place as serene and inviting as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio was only a quick walk from the city center.
This park and its surrounding neighborhoods hardly feel like they are a part of the Historic Center of Florence, and if not for the map, I wouldn’t believe it myself. The park is nestled right next to Viale Antonio Gramsci, and the walls of the old city. D’Azeglio is the best of both worlds, an area that feels different from a city, and more like a small town that you would find in a remote village in Italy, but still very close to the center of Florence. As such there are numerous luxury brands, and expensive places to visit in this area as well, including the Four Seasons hotel and its ancient Renaissance garden.
The neighborhood is a mixture of stately apartments, and small parks the likes of which stand in clear contrast to the rampant tourism and chaos of nearby areas such as Santa Croce and Palazzo Vecchio. Children run through the playground free of cares, like loose cannons running headlong past their friends who try to touch the sky on the swings. A group of boys play soccer, occasionally kicking their ball over the fence. Nobody goes to get it, they simply yell for their ball and wait, knowing one of the locals will happily assist. Near the center of the park is a beautiful carrousel. The small green ride lights up, and plays a cheerful tune which wafts through the air in the park, a few children go round and round, you can almost hear their smiles.
Most striking about the park however, is the community which uses the public space as their meeting grounds. Dog walkers stop to talk while their dogs play amongst each other, a daily activity for some. Older men stop to chat with their grocery bags stuffed with fresh produce bought from the nearby Sant Ambrogio market, or perhaps a delicious calzoni from Rocco. Couples sit on the benches, sharing an umbrella as they sit for hours, they wave to their friends and neighbours as they pass by on their bikes.
Named after Massimo Taparelli the Marquess of Azeglio (commonly called Massimo d’Azeglio) this park represents a lot for many people. D’Azeglio, who famously fought against the Austrians for Italian liberation, was also a prime minister and the leader of the movement that advocated an Italian national revival. His legacy is remembered in parks such as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio.
There are so many places in Florence that are strikingly beautiful, but seem a bit hollow, like they lack the soul of the city. This is not true of Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio which seems utterly lived in, and yet still completely magical. I know that this park has my heart, and will have yours too.
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