By Steven Scaglione
Italy is famous for its food, but did you know that each region, and even more specifically, each city, has their own specialties? When in Italy make sure to try some of these typical dishes that you won’t be able to find back home. This week’s focus is on the Tuscan port town of Livorno.
On the second day of what was planned to be a nine-day bike tour, I finally reached Tuscany’s beautiful port city of Livorno. I had been riding for about four hours, with frayed nerves from sharing the road rather unevenly with trucks of various sizes. It felt nice to pop the kickstand and sit among the trees in Parco Pertini, one of Livorno’s few green spaces just outside the city center while I reflected on my simple priorities for today: find some food, then find the sea.
After checking into a bed-and-breakfast with some difficulty (this key is for the front door?), I was ready to explore the city. With my first priority in mind, I set out to find a 5&5 (cinque e cinque) sandwich: a popular Livornese street food specialty consisting of a savory chick pea flour “cake” topped with olive oil and black pepper then placed between flat schiaccia bread.
To find the best 5&5 around, I was directed by some Livornese locals to go to “da Gagarin,” a torteria near Livorno’s own Mercato Centrale. The building was confusingly nondescript, and I’m still not sure if it has a sign on its storefront or not. But the best advertising a restaurant can have is a line of customers leading down the block, and when I saw this, I knew I was in the right spot.
Edible treasures in tow, I set my sights on the sea, looking to watch the sunset as the waves crashed on the rocks. Two enormous cruise ships sat docked in the city’s port like man-made whales with waterslides and a few freighters sailed steadily on the horizon.
Passing behind the Aquarium of Livorno, the ground under my feet seemed to morph, the familiar gravel being replaced by a seaside checkerboard of black-and-white tiles – something straight out of “Alice in Wonderland.” What was happening? Were all those hours of biking getting to me? Maybe so, but my eyes weren’t failing; these tiles were just some of the thousands composing Livorno’s stunning lungomare, or boardwalk, near Terrazza Mascagni.
The sun was going down in a ball of orange flame, setting the sky ablaze in wispy waves of pink and purple. The freighters turned on their lights to blink their presence cautiously. I unwrapped my sandwich, eating it from the paper wrapping while sitting on the concrete railing of the lungomare and thought about my trip so far. Tomorrow I would start heading south, toward Grosseto and its vineyards along the way. But tonight, just for tonight, I would sit among these black-and-white tiles until dark, watching those blinking lights and listening to the sound of the waves.