Seeing – Page 4 – Finding Florence

Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio has my heart

Photo by Author

By Gregg Casazza

Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio is a small park just a short walk away from Santa Croce, and I am absolutely in love with it.

There is something truly magical about the parks in Florence. Perhaps it is the fact that you so seldom see grass in the ancient stone city, or the fact that when sunlight streams through the tall slender trees, golden light dances all around the square. The soothing refuge these parks offer from the hustle-and-bustle of the city is much appreciated, and not lost on me one bit. However, finding one of these hidden treasures can be very hard for a casual traveler, and often the parks that CAN be found are just as busy as the rest of the city. So I found it rather shocking that a place as serene and inviting as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio was only a quick walk from the city center.

This park and its surrounding neighborhoods hardly feel like they are a part of the Historic Center of Florence, and if not for the map, I wouldn’t believe it myself. The park is nestled right next to Viale Antonio Gramsci, and the walls of the old city. D’Azeglio is the best of both worlds, an area that feels different from a city, and more like a small town that you would find in a remote village in Italy, but still very close to the center of Florence. As such there are numerous luxury brands, and expensive places to visit in this area as well, including the Four Seasons hotel and its ancient Renaissance garden.

The neighborhood is a mixture of stately apartments, and small parks the likes of which stand in clear contrast to the rampant tourism and chaos of nearby areas such as Santa Croce and Palazzo Vecchio. Children run through the playground free of cares, like loose cannons running headlong past their friends who try to touch the sky on the swings. A group of boys play soccer, occasionally kicking their ball over the fence. Nobody goes to get it, they simply yell for their ball and wait, knowing one of the locals will happily assist. Near the center of the park is a beautiful carrousel. The small green ride lights up, and plays a cheerful tune which wafts through the air in the park, a few children go round and round, you can almost hear their smiles.

Most striking about the park however, is the community which uses the public space as their meeting grounds. Dog walkers stop to talk while their dogs play amongst each other, a daily activity for some. Older men stop to chat with their grocery bags stuffed with fresh produce bought from the nearby Sant Ambrogio market, or perhaps a delicious calzoni from Rocco. Couples sit on the benches, sharing an umbrella as they sit for hours, they wave to their friends and neighbours as they pass by on their bikes.

Named after Massimo Taparelli the Marquess of Azeglio (commonly called Massimo d’Azeglio) this park represents a lot for many people. D’Azeglio, who famously fought against the Austrians for Italian liberation, was also a prime minister and the leader of the movement that advocated an Italian national revival. His legacy is remembered in parks such as Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio.

There are so many places in Florence that are strikingly beautiful, but seem a bit hollow, like they lack the soul of the city. This is not true of Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio which seems utterly lived in, and yet still completely magical. I know that this park has my heart, and will have yours too.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

The Artists Behind It All

By Molli A. Browne
All photos by the author

Photography student Molli A. Browne captures meaningful street art in Florence.

Dhai Studio located on Via di S. Niccolò is home to three of the most popular street artists in Florence. The studio is small in size but filled with inspiring and accessible art. At Dhai studio, you will find art by Blub, Enter/Exit, and Carla Bruttini. These are the artists behind the amazing street art that fills our city. Blub is known for creating underwater paintings, almost all of his figures having scuba masks on. His art is colourful, playful, and filled with imagination. Blub’s identity still remains unknown, which makes him and his art even more interesting. Next we have Enter/Exit, usually found right near or next to Blub’s work. Enter/Exit is most known for their colourful red balloons and small figures. Carla Bruttini is most popularly known for her painting on Via S. Niccolò of the woman with bright red hair. Carla Bruttini’s work symbolizes peace, power, and strength.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

Via dei Malcontenti

By Molli A. Browne
All photos by the author

Via dei Malcontenti is the street the Florentine prisoners would walk down before being excecuted. Via dei Malcontenti connects Via delle Casine to Piazza Piave. Today, the street consists of apartments, a church, and a school. During the day, the road is quiet and calming. The following set of images are what a prisoner would have seen walking down Via dei Malcontenti before the execution.

Photography student Molli A. Browne imagines the final moments of a prisoner walking down Via dei Malcontenti.

I pray for forgiveness, I pray for my sins.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

Scenes from San Martino: Duomo of Lucca

Photo by Hannah Sanders Photo by Tomie Martel

By Travel Writing Students

This post captures two intriguing figures depicted at Lucca’s main cathedral. A mysterious woman who tragically died at 24, and an artist’s attempt to capture the holy nature of Christ. Explore the peculiarity of silence and the power of the divine in the following stories, uncovered by FUA students at a recent Field Learning experience for the Travel Writing course.

Sleeping Beauty in the Silent City
By Hannah Sanders

Even on a cold and foggy morning, the silence of Lucca is inviting. The city’s silence wraps around me like a warm robe slipped on after a shower. The stillness carries me through the streets, wet from the rain, and leads me into the Cathedral. There, a beautiful woman lies colder and more silent than the city itself.

I can tell she has lived in the quietness of Lucca for quite some time. She does not speak or move, and she too is cloaked in Lucca’s robe of silence. Her hands are delicately placed over one another and her eyes remain closed, she looks as though she is in a trance.

An English guide introduces me to the sleeping beauty: her name is Ilaria Del Carretto. She was the wife of Paolo Guinigi, the Lord of Lucca, who ruled from 1400 to 1430. Ilaria’s royalty and high rank is evident through her contemporary gothic clothing. At her feet lies a small dog, looking over his shoulder to protect his master. I look to the guide to seek what the sleeping beauty needs protection from, and learn Ilaria suffered a death following the birth of her second child. She was only 24.

The silence is loud now. The cold air shoots shivers down my spine. Thoughts flood my head. Such a beautiful queen, sculpted from white marble by the artist Jacopo della Quercia, was taken from the world much too soon. Her tomb commemorating her life appears so pure, yet her story contains a tragedy. The silence of Lucca no longer seems so inviting.

The Holy Visage
By Tomie Martel

Sitting before the Holy Visage, one can immediately feel a sense of importance and sacredness. Housed in the Cattedrale di San Martino, the carving of Jesus, that depicts him fully clothed and seemingly unharmed was created in the 11^th century by an artist named Nicodemus. Nicodemus felt that he was unable to fully do justice to the true face of Jesus, so he carved the body and went to sleep, leaving the face undone. The next morning, he awoke to the visage having been created by unknown hands. From then on, the creation was seen as a miracle.

The second miracle involving this work of art came once it was transported to Italy. The carving was placed on an ox-pulled cart, and without instruction the ox took it to Lucca, where it was determined it was miraculously meant to be housed. It is due to these miracles that every year on September 13^th, people from all over Tuscany come to pray to the visage for miracles, or guidance through life.

The Luminara di Santa Croce takes place the 13^th of every September, whereby the Holy Visage is dressed in extremely lavish additional garments, including a larger crown, a collar, belt, and silver shoes, all of which are housed in the nearby museum of the cathedral.

With its dark wood, deep carvings, and gold detailing, The Holy Face of Lucca exemplifies the divine. Christ is portrayed as powerful, standing upright so as to emphasise his holiness. It is abundantly evident why this work of art is seen miraculous as well as beautiful.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

Experiencing a Religion: Welcome to Fiorentina

By Sean Ahern

Football is not merely a sport here in Florence. It has a much higher purpose than that. The city revolves around the club, the Viola. As a first timer attending a European football game, this was nirvana.

It was a typical Florentine Friday as I enjoyed my one class when my roommate and I decided to get tickets to the Fiorentina and Juventus game during the night. As a football superfan, I was more than willing to partake within this rivalry as I have only seen and heard insane things when it came down to this game. Time moved slowly as my anticipation grew to a fever pitch. Suiting up with my Fiorentina jacket, I was ready to toss away my tourist status and become a local. Walking over to the stadium, I heard the fans’ chants grow louder and louder. This surely was not just another Friday night football game, this was going to be war.

Heading to our seats, we noticed the sheer amount of people that were packed into the stadium and realized that this was something that was not of the ordinary. Excitement filled the stadium while the Fiorentina fans sang the songs of the club. I have personally never heard a louder stadium and the voices grew louder with every shot, every foul, and every pass.

Although Fiorentina lost the game two to nil, the atmosphere is something that I will never forget. It was my first real foray as a citizen of this wonderful city, and even though I will forget the names of the restaurants and the gelato places, I will never forget this game.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

Santo Spirito Market

By Kristen Kaneb and Danielle Wood

The Santo Spirito Market is an area where tourists and locals combine to experience all that Florence has to offer. It is a time where people can explore anything from food to wine to art to jewelry.

On the second Sunday of February it was time to visit the Santo Spirito Market. This is a perfect activity for a lazy Sunday to go walk around with your friends and browse through all the different fun stands. It’s amazing to be able to walk through and see such a variety of fresh, authentic goods. Whether you want to buy fresh meats and cheeses, homemade jams, or hand-crafted Italian jewelry, this market had it all.

Tourists and locals alike appreciate the San Spirito Market. It exemplifies Italians’ value of fresh produce and delicious-tasting meals. Of course, Italy is known for its exquisite meals using only the best ingredients. The market’s locally-grown vegetables, carefully sliced meats, and handmade pastas demonstrate the Italian value of putting time, effort, and thought into the production of each meal. Italians are committed to fresh, enticing, cuisine.

Observing the shoppers at the market, it was clear that they were carefully considering each purchase. They took their time to examine each product, whether it was the level of intricacy in a piece of jewelry or an orange’s freshness.

One of the best things about this market was that it was full of local Florentines. Santo Spirito is located on the other side of the river from the Duomo. Here you can have a genuine Italian cultural experience. If you start to get tired while shopping, the market is in the middle of the square surrounded by restaurants and a beautiful church. There is something for everyone. The San Spirito Market shows the norm of Italian culture: that people take their time to enjoy the little things in life.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

Pre-departure: Museum Tips

By Emily Robinson

Free Museum Days: 5 tips to make the most out of free entry.

On the first Sunday of every month, as well as other special days throughout the year, Florence’s civic museums allow guests to visit for free! Here are some tips to get the most out of your visit and appreciate the Medici art.

1. Check hours and restrictions
Some museums and churches open earlier than others, while other facilities (such as Museo del Bigallo) may only allow visitors upon reservation. Did you know that the Palazzo Vecchio museum is open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. but the museum’s tower is only open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.? Do your research ahead of time to avoid frustration later.

2. Map out your day
If you are aimlessly walking around the city from one museum to another, you will tire out before even getting to your destination. After picking the places you want to visit and checking their hours, map the museums out and see what route makes the most sense. Your friends (and feet) will thank you later!

3. Dress for success
Check the weather and dress accordingly. If you plan on walking a lot, make sure to wear comfortable shoes. If you plan on visiting a church, make sure your outfit adheres to their dress code (some require shoulders and knees to be covered.)

4. Pack Light
Make sure you are prepared for a long day of adventures. If you are planning on using your phone a lot, bring a portable phone charger or wall unit and adapter. Throw a water bottle into your bag since beverages at a restaurant or café can be pricey. When it comes to traveling, less is more. Keep in mind that anything you pack you will have to carry on your back all day and that can start to weigh on you.

5. Expect crowds
You are not the only person who decided to save a few euros and visit museums on a free entrance day! Anticipate long lines and crowded exhibits and remember that you are not the only person who has been walking from one museum to another. Be patient, kind and – most importantly – flexible when things do not go as planned.

With these tips in mind, my friends and I were able to visit Palazzo Vecchio, Museo Novecento, Santa Maria Novella and Cappella Brancacci all in one afternoon. Even with a student discount, we saved over 100 euros between the five of us on one free museum day. Hopefully these tips can help you get the most out of free museum days in Italy, too!

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

Florence: The Best of Both Worlds

By Michael Lovanne

A walk through the city of Florence in search of memory stones which have so much meaning to the past and present of this historical city.

Florence is a thriving city, constantly moving and changing with the times. As a student with a passion for history and art, Florence was an easy choice when it came to picking a destination to study abroad. Defined by the renaissance, history and art is what built Florence and is absolutely inescapable: everywhere you turn is a different palazzo with historical significance, a different statue or fountain that is hundreds of years old, or a museum filled with priceless objects all telling the story of the city. I found this evident more than ever in my walk through the city in search of memory stones.

The beauty of these stones isn’t in their appearance, but in their message and purpose. Some stones are set on the outside of buildings where a Florentine of importance was born, passed, or had achieved something within the walls. Others share the history of the city through its culture such as quotes and excerpts by the famous Dante Alighieri.

What I found most interesting during this search was how the stones perfectly married the past with the future, by celebrating the continuous achievements of the city and its inhabitants. When another momentous achievement is made or event has taken place, it is immortalized in stone, and becomes engrained in Florence’s culture and celebration of the past and present.

As students living here, we are the future, and while there is much we can learn from Florence’s past, it is important to see that the city’s commitment to the past and present is what makes it truly unique.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

The Porta San Frediano and its close-knit community

By Gregg Casazza

Walls are built to keep people apart, but in the small borgo of San Frediano it seems that this wall actually brings the community together.

Between 1332 and 1334 the Porta San Frediano was constructed. This gate acted as an important route between Pisa and Florence, allowing travellers to access the city through the gate in the sixth city wall, and enter the Oltrarno quarter. Nearly 500 years later, this gate is still a functioning access point to the city, however, unlike many of the standing gates, much of the connected wall remains. More remarkable than this is the veneration the community around the wall has for the historic culture of this gate.

In a city like Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance, it should come as no surprise that those who walk its cobblestoned streets appreciate and respect the history of the city. Perhaps nowhere in the city is this as true as in the hidden treasure of Florence, the Oltrarno quarter.

The “other side of the river” (the Arno) as it is sometimes called, is home to many artisan shops, and is too often overlooked by the casual tourist. The borgo (borough) of San Frediano is especially connected to its historical roots, and to the roots of the Porta San Frediano. It seems in many ways that the gate which watched over the borgo for centuries now acts like a friend or a family member within the close knit community.

Locals can be seen hanging out by the wall. They leave flowers at its base, and in the alcoves of its stone exterior. Bright orange carnations pepper the ground, and stand out on even the dreariest of February days. A likeness of the gate is painted in stylistic purple on the outside walls of Da Simone la buticche del lampredotto, and a massive multicolored mural depicts the wall, the borgo, and states “San Frediano, il mondo intero” (San Frediano, the whole world) to all who enter the small borgo.

The wall acts as a sort of keystone for the community, holding the community together. Whether you sit in any of the small cafes nearby, or try some traditional cuisine at Trattoria Sabatino, the Porta San Frediano can be seen, watching over and protecting the community all these years later. During Notte Bianca, one of the famous festivals held in June in San Frediano, the community gathers for a long night of fun and music. During which, the focal point for many is the Porta San Frediano, which has lights and designs projected on it while locals partake in festivities from 9pm to 2am.

When something is part of a culture for so long it is easy to forget its importance. This is how history is lost, and how stories are forgotten. Thankfully, the people of San Frediano are keeping this part of their history in the forefronts of their minds, and still see an importance in this ancient wall.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

The Column of Justice

By Valerie White

A Roman column stands surrounded by designer brands in the center of Florence.

The Column of Justice in piazza Santa Trinita is one of the many great works of art in Florence. Unfortunately, it receives little tourist attention, despite being at end of the famous via Tornabouni. Along this road are a myriad of designer and luxury stores that attract tourists from all over; wealthy or not, everyone can window shop. In piazza Santa Trinita the luxury brand stores with their extravagant displays are contrasted with the Medieval and Renaissance architecture of several palaces from Florence’s history. Overlooking this juxtaposition of contemporary fashion and historical architecture is the statue of Lady Justice, stoically watching as the city evolves around her.

The Column of Justice is the largest Roman column in Florence. Atop it stands a statue of Lady Justice, carved out of porphyry stone. The column has two mates in the city, the Column of Peace in piazza San Marco and the Column of Religion in piazza San Felice; neither of which have statues atop them.

The Column of Justice was originally found in the Baths of Caracalla in Rome, but was moved to Florence in 1563 as a gift from Pope Pius IV to Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici. The journey from Rome to Florence took almost an entire year. It was also attacked several times along the way by Turkish pirates.

The statue atop the column was originally a wooden replica until the current porphyry stone was created. At the time it was carved, porphyry was one of the hardest materials known. It was an incredibly difficult material to work with for this reason and was carved by expert porphyry sculptor Francesco del Tadda and his son Romolo del Tadda. It took them eleven years to carve the statue to completion, and it is carved from six different blocks of porphyry that are held together by copper linchpins.

The Column of Justice was just made viewable again after a period of restoration. Lady Justice had noticeable wear and even some holes in her cape before the restoration. But now she is looking impeccable as ever!

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.