By Reese Bentzinger
Photo by author
In one of the first rooms of Palazzo Pitti’s temporary Animalia Fashion exhibit, there’s a small sign stating that none of the clothes on display involved harming animals. However, the sign adds, the issue is still important to consider.
The exhibit, which showcases nature’s influence on haute couture, begins in a long hallway of narrow rooms. The couture pieces were blocked from admiring viewers by velvet rope and a raised platform, transporting the viewer to the runway stages that they made their debut on.
Each room is backdropped by a cloth sketch displaying the animals that the nearby pieces were based on. With some of the pieces the influence was obvious. For example a golden snake, placed on the back of a navy gown, is clearly inspired by the animal kingdom. Othertimes it takes a little looking to realize how the piece reflects nature. This is the case with another snake inspired piece, a vest with twisting tubes that reflects the animal’s movements rather than have direct snake imagery.
The clothes are a reflection on how nature both fascinates and terrifies us, with many sources for inspiration. A bridal-style white gown has graceful curves that would perfectly reflect the moonlight that inspired it. The prickily nature of the pufferfish is seen in boldly spiked jacket. No matter which direction the inspiration came from, it’s clear that nature has an impression on fashion.
This impact is felt both ways, but it doesn’t always result in something to be admired. Many of the rooms also display stuffed birds and insects in glass, reminding viewers of how fashion can cruelly collide with the natural world. From hunting animals for prized fur to environmentally harmful factories, nature and fashion can be a dangerous combination.
The exhibit showcases hypocrisy in the fashion industry. They take influence from the beauty of nature, yet play an active part in its destruction. The message of the gallery is the same one as the sign in the front of it: it’s important to reflect on how fashion can impact nature.
Animalia Fashion will be at Palazzo Pitti until May 5, 2019.
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