Via dei Malcontenti is the street the Florentine prisoners would walk down before being excecuted. Via dei Malcontenti connects Via delle Casine to Piazza Piave. Today, the street consists of apartments, a church, and a school. During the day, the road is quiet and calming. The following set of images are what a prisoner would have seen walking down Via dei Malcontenti before the execution.
Photography student Molli A. Browne imagines the final moments of a prisoner walking down Via dei Malcontenti.
My time has come.My darkest day…I pray for forgiveness, I pray for my sins.My last chance.Gone.
This post captures two intriguing figures depicted at Lucca’s main cathedral. A mysterious woman who tragically died at 24, and an artist’s attempt to capture the holy nature of Christ. Explore the peculiarity of silence and the power of the divine in the following stories, uncovered by FUA students at a recent Field Learning experience for the Travel Writing course.
Sleeping Beauty in the Silent City By Hannah Sanders
Even on a cold and foggy morning, the silence of Lucca is inviting. The city’s silence wraps around me like a warm robe slipped on after a shower. The stillness carries me through the streets, wet from the rain, and leads me into the Cathedral. There, a beautiful woman lies colder and more silent than the city itself.
I can tell she has lived in the quietness of Lucca for quite some time. She does not speak or move, and she too is cloaked in Lucca’s robe of silence. Her hands are delicately placed over one another and her eyes remain closed, she looks as though she is in a trance.
An English guide introduces me to the sleeping beauty: her name is Ilaria Del Carretto. She was the wife of Paolo Guinigi, the Lord of Lucca, who ruled from 1400 to 1430. Ilaria’s royalty and high rank is evident through her contemporary gothic clothing. At her feet lies a small dog, looking over his shoulder to protect his master. I look to the guide to seek what the sleeping beauty needs protection from, and learn Ilaria suffered a death following the birth of her second child. She was only 24.
The silence is loud now. The cold air shoots shivers down my spine. Thoughts flood my head. Such a beautiful queen, sculpted from white marble by the artist Jacopo della Quercia, was taken from the world much too soon. Her tomb commemorating her life appears so pure, yet her story contains a tragedy. The silence of Lucca no longer seems so inviting.
The Holy Visage By Tomie Martel
Sitting before the Holy Visage, one can immediately feel a sense of importance and sacredness. Housed in the Cattedrale di San Martino, the carving of Jesus, that depicts him fully clothed and seemingly unharmed was created in the 11th century by an artist named Nicodemus. Nicodemus felt that he was unable to fully do justice to the true face of Jesus, so he carved the body and went to sleep, leaving the face undone. The next morning, he awoke to the visage having been created by unknown hands. From then on, the creation was seen as a miracle.
The second miracle involving this work of art came once it was transported to Italy. The carving was placed on an ox-pulled cart, and without instruction the ox took it to Lucca, where it was determined it was miraculously meant to be housed. It is due to these miracles that every year on September 13th, people from all over Tuscany come to pray to the visage for miracles, or guidance through life.
The Luminara di Santa Croce takes place the 13th of every September, whereby the Holy Visage is dressed in extremely lavish additional garments, including a larger crown, a collar, belt, and silver shoes, all of which are housed in the nearby museum of the cathedral.
With its dark wood, deep carvings, and gold detailing, The Holy Face of Lucca exemplifies the divine. Christ is portrayed as powerful, standing upright so as to emphasise his holiness. It is abundantly evident why this work of art is seen miraculous as well as beautiful.
Football is not merely a sport here in Florence. It has a much higher purpose than that. The city revolves around the club, the Viola. As a first timer attending a European football game, this was nirvana.
It was a typical Florentine Friday as I enjoyed my one class when my roommate and I decided to get tickets to the Fiorentina and Juventus game during the night. As a football superfan, I was more than willing to partake within this rivalry as I have only seen and heard insane things when it came down to this game. Time moved slowly as my anticipation grew to a fever pitch. Suiting up with my Fiorentina jacket, I was ready to toss away my tourist status and become a local. Walking over to the stadium, I heard the fans’ chants grow louder and louder. This surely was not just another Friday night football game, this was going to be war.
Heading to our seats, we noticed the sheer amount of people that were packed into the stadium and realized that this was something that was not of the ordinary. Excitement filled the stadium while the Fiorentina fans sang the songs of the club. I have personally never heard a louder stadium and the voices grew louder with every shot, every foul, and every pass.
Although Fiorentina lost the game two to nil, the atmosphere is something that I will never forget. It was my first real foray as a citizen of this wonderful city, and even though I will forget the names of the restaurants and the gelato places, I will never forget this game.
The Santo Spirito Market is an area where tourists and locals combine to experience all that Florence has to offer. It is a time where people can explore anything from food to wine to art to jewelry.
On the second Sunday of February it was time to visit the Santo Spirito Market. This is a perfect activity for a lazy Sunday to go walk around with your friends and browse through all the different fun stands. It’s amazing to be able to walk through and see such a variety of fresh, authentic goods. Whether you want to buy fresh meats and cheeses, homemade jams, or hand-crafted Italian jewelry, this market had it all.
Tourists and locals alike appreciate the San Spirito Market. It exemplifies Italians’ value of fresh produce and delicious-tasting meals. Of course, Italy is known for its exquisite meals using only the best ingredients. The market’s locally-grown vegetables, carefully sliced meats, and handmade pastas demonstrate the Italian value of putting time, effort, and thought into the production of each meal. Italians are committed to fresh, enticing, cuisine.
Observing the shoppers at the market, it was clear that they were carefully considering each purchase. They took their time to examine each product, whether it was the level of intricacy in a piece of jewelry or an orange’s freshness.
One of the best things about this market was that it was full of local Florentines. Santo Spirito is located on the other side of the river from the Duomo. Here you can have a genuine Italian cultural experience. If you start to get tired while shopping, the market is in the middle of the square surrounded by restaurants and a beautiful church. There is something for everyone. The San Spirito Market shows the norm of Italian culture: that people take their time to enjoy the little things in life.
Free Museum Days: 5 tips to make the most out of free entry.
On the first Sunday of every month, as well as other special days throughout the year, Florence’s civic museums allow guests to visit for free! Here are some tips to get the most out of your visit and appreciate the Medici art.
1. Check hours and restrictions
Some museums and churches open earlier than others, while other facilities (such as Museo del Bigallo) may only allow visitors upon reservation. Did you know that the Palazzo Vecchio museum is open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. but the museum’s tower is only open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.? Do your research ahead of time to avoid frustration later.
2. Map out your day If you are aimlessly walking around the city from one museum to another, you will tire out before even getting to your destination. After picking the places you want to visit and checking their hours, map the museums out and see what route makes the most sense. Your friends (and feet) will thank you later!
3. Dress for success
Check the weather and dress accordingly. If you plan on walking a lot, make sure to wear comfortable shoes. If you plan on visiting a church, make sure your outfit adheres to their dress code (some require shoulders and knees to be covered.)
4. Pack Light
Make sure you are prepared for a long day of adventures. If you are planning on using your phone a lot, bring a portable phone charger or wall unit and adapter. Throw a water bottle into your bag since beverages at a restaurant or café can be pricey. When it comes to traveling, less is more. Keep in mind that anything you pack you will have to carry on your back all day and that can start to weigh on you.
5. Expect crowds You are not the only person who decided to save a few euros and visit museums on a free entrance day! Anticipate long lines and crowded exhibits and remember that you are not the only person who has been walking from one museum to another. Be patient, kind and – most importantly – flexible when things do not go as planned.
With these tips in mind, my friends and I were able to visit Palazzo Vecchio, Museo Novecento, Santa Maria Novella and Cappella Brancacci all in one afternoon. Even with a student discount, we saved over 100 euros between the five of us on one free museum day. Hopefully these tips can help you get the most out of free museum days in Italy, too!
A walk through the city of Florence in search of memory stones which have so much meaning to the past and present of this historical city.
Florence is a thriving city, constantly moving and changing with the times. As a student with a passion for history and art, Florence was an easy choice when it came to picking a destination to study abroad. Defined by the renaissance, history and art is what built Florence and is absolutely inescapable: everywhere you turn is a different palazzo with historical significance, a different statue or fountain that is hundreds of years old, or a museum filled with priceless objects all telling the story of the city. I found this evident more than ever in my walk through the city in search of memory stones.
The beauty of these stones isn’t in their appearance, but in their message and purpose. Some stones are set on the outside of buildings where a Florentine of importance was born, passed, or had achieved something within the walls. Others share the history of the city through its culture such as quotes and excerpts by the famous Dante Alighieri.
What I found most interesting during this search was how the stones perfectly married the past with the future, by celebrating the continuous achievements of the city and its inhabitants. When another momentous achievement is made or event has taken place, it is immortalized in stone, and becomes engrained in Florence’s culture and celebration of the past and present.
As students living here, we are the future, and while there is much we can learn from Florence’s past, it is important to see that the city’s commitment to the past and present is what makes it truly unique.
FUA Social Media students Virginia and Jalissa had the opportunity to cover firsthand the first meeting of FUA students and their local Chat Pal partners for the semester-long activity of language and cultural exchange.
The latest ChatPal encounter that pairs students and locals took place on February 26 in Corso Tintori. The purpose of this event was for the FUA students to meet their Italian pal for the first time and have a place to get to know each other and have refreshments. To sweeten the encounter, the FUA hospitality department provided an abundance of snacks such as brownies, cakes, tarts, and savory items as well. Upon arriving everyone took a seat and SLD advisor Mattia Delle Piane announced the partner assignments, and one by one students were united with their local chat pal partner. We then took pictures of each pair in the cardboard cutout of the ChatPal Instagram. This meet & greet was a great introduction for both the students and the Italians involved. Participants will spend the rest of semester sharing and practicing the respective languages of the partners, meeting once a week for a minimum length of an hour to speak 30 minutes in one language and switch to the other for the remaining time. The Italian population this semester features individuals from diverse backgrounds and ages ranging from the 20s to early 40s. We were fortunate enough to meet and interview a local participant, Andrés Rosales, a Spanish transplant in Florence who works as a professional tour guide.
Where are you originally from?
AR: Madrid Spain but I have lived in Florence for 12 years now.
How long have you been a participant in this program?
AR: 3 years
How did u hear about ChatPal?
AR: One of my acquaintances participated the year before I started. He told me about the university, the language exchange program with the students, and I contacted FUA to meet and talk about it.
How many “Pals” do you usually get paired up with?
AR: Sometimes 1 sometimes 2 or 3, depends on the students and how often they can meet up.
Why ChatPal?
AR: To practice and improve my English.
Has your English improved?
AR: Yes, thanks to the practice and the opportunity to chat about different topics.
What do you usually talk about?
AR: General topics such as the city, life in the students’ home countries, and life here in Italy.
A listicle of some of Florence’s best spots to overcome your writer’s block, and to find your inspiration as a writer.
How to get over writer’s block, writing tips, become a better writer, places in Florence to visit
Even in a city like Florence, a city teeming with inspiration, it can sometimes be difficult to find a spark of creativity as a writer. I realize this must sound like a contradiction, but writer’s block can happen even in Florence. As any writer knows, writer’s block can strike at any time, and to combat this a writer must know what encourages and nurtures his or her own writing process. Over the past few weeks I have found a few locations in Florence which I feel do just that, and have proved very successful in getting me to write. From a secret garden to a pen shop, these Florentine locations will help any writer to feel inspired.
Ditta Artigianale With two locations, (my favorite located on Via dello Sprone) this is a cozy two floor café with lush green plants and graphic eye-catching wallpaper. Sitting down with a coffee and a notebook, this place is the perfect place for a writer’s retreat. There are occasionally live musicians, and plenty of comfortable velvet armchairs to work in. Part of the atmosphere of this café is made up by the lively servers, and also the many students studying throughout. Another perk of Ditta Artigianale is that it stays open very late it is open until 11pm Sun-Thurs, and 12am on Fri-Sat. These hours are perfect for writers who work best at night, or for those who find late night inspiration.
Oblate Café Offering one of the most spectacular views of the Duomo, this rooftop café is a tucked away spot perfect for warm days, reading, and of course writing. As part of a library you can find a book by your favorite author, sit down with a great cup of coffee, and write something at any one of the numerous tables throughout the rooftop. There is also an indoor portion of the café, and so if the weather is not so great, you can still find a nice spot to sit down to get some work done. By seeing such a notable landmark from a different perspective, this café offers you a chance to look at your own writing from a new perspective as well.
News Café Just a short walk from the train station, this café is simple, quiet, and homey. A great blank canvas for writers, this café lends itself to all sorts of creative concepts. The cappuccinos are artfully designed, and the lighting is soothing. A wall of wine bottles acts as a backdrop to this writing spot, and you will find yourself spending hours typing away, or scribbling down notes in your journal in this café. There are also single tables, as well as larger conference type tables here, so whether you are working with a group or by yourself, the News Café has something for everyone.
Todo Modo Perhaps the ultimate inspo-café, this bookstore-café hybrid offers endless opportunities to those who want to write. The entrance is a bookstore, filled with art books, novels, and great literature, but if you travel deeper into the building, you will find so much more. Divided into a library, a café, and a theater, you can eat, read and explore this shop and find something new to do every day. In the back of the shop is a wooden double staircase which offers more seating opportunities, and also acts as a stage for live performers. Described as “a large reading room that becomes a bistro, a place for meetings, performances, projections, concerts, workshops, and seminars” it seems like there is always something new at Todo Modo. Sometimes authors will visit this café, or hold a seminar which can help you to hone your craft, and garner you new skills as a writer as well. There aren’t many places in Florence that offer so much for writers, and the opportunity to improve as a writer makes this place a must-see.
Il Torchio and Casa della Stilografica A writer is only as good as their writing supplies, and I find when I have really good supplies, I end up producing much more content. Try a custom notebook from Il Torchio, these books are all handmade and locally sourced. The paper is made on the Amalfi coast, and the woman who runs the shop can be found binding the books all day long. You can buy a premade book, or get a custom book to fit your needs. If you like this slightly more analog approach to writing, then you may also want to check out the fountain pens from Casa della Stilografica. These pens write like a dream, and you will be hard pressed to find a pen that writes better. The dedication and craftsmanship in good writing supplies can truly inspire any writer, every time I see my notebook or pen, I am immediately inspired to write.
Outdoor Spots My last spots to visit as a writer are all outdoors, and weather permitting, these spots are truly unmatched. They offer intimate and solitary opportunities for a writer to find a slightly more introspective experience. The first spot is part of the rose garden near the Piazzale Michelangelo, if you walk just a bit further into this garden there is a zen garden with some benches that supply a perfect spot to take a break, and write. If you climb to the top of the Piazzale, especially at sunrise, there are few more awe inspiring sights in the city, and so this spot can give a writer many opportunities to find their spark of creativity.
Another slightly less common spot to do some writing, is the area in front of the Palazzo Pitti. It may seem strange to sit here to write, but many people actually picnic in front of the Palazzo, and the community atmosphere has helped me to write many times, something about people watching and the outdoors really helps me to get inspired.
The final spot to do some writing involves a little walking, or maybe even taking the bus, and is on the way to Fiesole. The walk there is so beautiful itself that it would be a challenge to not be inspired. However, if you take Via Giuseppe Mantellini you will find yourself at a small park, with benches, and the most breath-taking view of Florence imaginable. The park is very quiet and on a sunny day you can see the Duomo, the Santa Croce, and so much more. You can find rolling hills, a bright blue sky, the golden Tuscan sun, and hopefully that elusive inspiration to write.
