My Transition Place: Arno River & Carraia Bridge

Photo of Ponte alla Carraia by the author
Photo of Ponte alla Carraia by the author

By Monica Humphries

When you step out of your apartment for the very first time, it’s a whirlwind of emotions. You feel enthralled to be in a new place. You feel excited for what the semester has to offer. You feel anxious, confused and eager.

I felt nervous.

Yes there were positive emotions, but buried not-so-deep were my nerves. I was in a foreign country, and the car ride to my apartment left me feeling like I was on the other side of the world.

I can vividly remember our driver taking all 7 students to their apartments. The first one was dropped off right past the Duomo, the second two near the San Lorenzo, a few more in the city center. Then there was me. I could remember crossing a river, going up and down the one-way streets, and finally pulling into a narrow, bike-filled lane right up to apartment number nine. After what must have been a half hour, I was home, but I wasn’t happy.

Although I was just on the other side of the river, I felt like there was a wall dividing me from all of my classmates. I stepped out onto the cobblestone street and immediately was lost. I stumbled my way through the streets until I found the Arno.

Since that first afternoon, the Arno, more specifically the Ponte alla Carraia, which is the bridge that leads to my street, has become my favorite place in Florence.

No matter where I was coming from – class, dinner or a cappuccino, all I had to do was find the river, and I knew exactly where I was. Since moving to Florence, the river is not only beautiful, but it has also become my safety net. A safety net that encourages me to explore and challenge my surroundings.

Curious about the Arno’s history and bridges, I talked to Giulio Vinci, a professor at FUA.

Vinci started at the very beginning. Florence was founded and controlled by the Romans. Romans generally build their cities in the valleys, so Florence followed this tradition and was built in a valley close to the river.

The city was structured in a rectangular shape with two central roads crossing through the city. The city was close to the water, but Florence wasn’t directly on the water, so there wasn’t travel between the sides of the river. Florence began expanding, and the Ponte Vecchio was the first bridge across the Arno. The first occurrence of the bridge was in a painting in 996.

The Ponte alla Carraia bridge is the second oldest bridge in Florence and known for its history of collapsing. Built in 1218 by architect Lapo, it collapsed for the first time in 1274 because of a flood. The bridge was originally built in wood, but it was rebuilt in stone. However, the stone was strong enough to support a crowd and collapsed again. In 1333 another flood struck Florence, and the bridge was once again destroyed. The most recent collapse was during WWII when it was bombed to prevent passage of allied troops from the Nazis in retreat.

Vinci said that tourism has exponentially grown in the past 20 years, and now Florence is a key location for visitors. He made a point to express that the river and its bridges always attract tourists.  Florence is known for its concentration of art, and the bridges are a part of that art. But not everyone, unfortunately, is interested in the art and history behind the bridges, and many prefer to simply use the bridges are picture spots. We’ve lost the meaning of tourism, and traveling today is vastly different from the young aristocrats of the 18th century who often went on year-long Grand Tour to discover the culture of European cities.

Thinking about what Vinci shared helped me appreciate my time here. Sometimes three months seems like forever, but with a city that has enough history for a lifetime, I’m thankful that I will have a chance to immerse myself and retain the details I learn about this city.

Walking home from the interview gave me a chance to reflect on my time here. Although it’s only been a month, I can now continue to expand my safety net to the entire city of Florence.

The bridge is a place of comfort but it’s now a place of curiosity. Each time I walk across the bridge I notice a new detail. I question the statue at the entrance, the crack along the pavement and the windows in the Ponte Vecchio. The comfort I have now encourages me to explore. It’s important that every student finds their Ponte alla Carraia. Whether it’s the San Lorenzo church or carousel in Piazza della Repubblica, we need a monument or location where we feel at home. But part of home is knowing its history and why it’s there. Yes, the pictures we take are important, but the history behind those photographs enrich our experience so much more. Take a second, learn about the area you call home, because you might end up loving the city just a little bit more.

I find comfort in the bridge because that’s where I find confidence. Confidence with directions, confidence in knowing there’s the best gelato place right around the corner, confidence that there will be a beautiful sunrise in the morning and an even prettier sunset at night. Learn about the landmark you call home, and you might end up finding a little confidence in a city full of new experiences.

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Uffizi: Innocent Bystanders

Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” Uffizi Gallery. Photo by the author.
Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” Uffizi Gallery. Photo by the author.

By Kaly Nasiff

The Uffizi is known for its popular paintings, but the museum is also filled with hidden treasures. This is my reaction to a lesser known painting called “Massacre of the Innocents” by Marco Benefial.

Not much is known about Marco Benefial’s “Massacre of the Innocents,” except that it was painted in the 1700s. When I saw it at the Uffizi Gallery I knew nothing about it. I had spent the afternoon being overwhelmed by the artworks that line nearly every inch of the Uffizi. The bright colors of this painting initially caught my attention, but upon further inspection, I realized that fiery women were fighting off savage men in order to save their children. I immediately fell in love with the determined faces of these women. They did not care that the men were larger and stronger than they were; they fought back with a passion that I found invigorating.

Looking around me, no one seemed to be as captivated with the painting as I was. I knew it was not one of the more famous paintings in the gallery, but I did not understand how anyone could ignore these women. Sure, they did not look like “Birth of Venus,” but to me they were more interesting. I was struck by the huge difference when I saw Sandro Botticelli’s Venus just minutes later. There was a crowd of people around the painting trying to get pictures of and with Venus. While it is a beautiful and famous painting, nothing about “Birth of Venus” made me feel what “Massacre of the Innocents” did. Venus is stunning but almost standoffish, and seems to be there to have others look at her. Meanwhile the women in Benefial’s painting were not placed in the painting for anyone’s benefit. They were meant to be appreciated for their determination rather than their beauty. I can only imagine and guess what Benefial was thinking when he painted these women, but I hope that he was trying to represent them as I saw them.

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.

 

 

Art: Spiritual Guards in Florence

Photo by Monica Humphries
Photo by Monica Humphries

By Camila Ibarra Gallego

On a sunny day in Firenze it’s hard to miss the bright, bronze sculptures sitting in Piazza della Signoria. But what might be even more shocking is how modern they look contrasted to the sculptures from centuries ago. Pieces from Jan Fabre’s exhibition can be found all over Florence. Find out why they’re here.

Many of you have probably been wondering what the heck a giant sea turtle is doing in the middle of Piazza della Signoria. That’s exactly what passed through my mind the morning I took my usual route to class and saw this big, shiny sculpture I had never seen before. So I decided to do some research to find out what this whole thing was about and share it with everyone who may be as flabbergasted as I was.

Jan Fabre (born in 1958) is a Belgian artist, playwright, stage director, choreographer, and designer. He is having an art exhibition here in Florence called Spiritual Guards. The exhibition is sponsored by the City of Florence, and it is be located between Forte Belvedere, Palazzo Vecchio, and Piazza della Signoria. It is said to be one of the most complex and complicated exhibitions in public spaces created by Jan Fabre. The exhibition will also host hundreds of works done by Fabre between 1978 to 2016 such as bronze sculptures, like the man riding the turtle, installations of beetle shells, wax sculptures, and documentary films of his performances.

The sculpture standing in the middle of the piazza is called Searching for Utopia. On top of the turtle sits a man holding on to reins. This man is the representation of the equestrian statue that was given to Grand Duke Cosimo I, a member of the Medici family and the Grand Duke of Tuscany, which was created by Giambologna.

As I stood there looking at the big turtle, I thought about how the artist paid attention to every detail on the turtle’s shell and on the man riding it. This sculpture is a cross between classical art and contemporary art.

I watched as people gathered around and took selfies with their selfie sticks. Many who just arrived in the city probably don’t realize that this statue has not been there for a while, and think that it is a piece of art that is part of the piazza. I see how they just stand in awe and admire the shiny gold piece of bronze, which looks a lot like Crush, the turtle from Finding Nemo. Children run around the installation and inspect it from every angle, probably wishing they could slide down the turtle’s shell or act as the captain of the ship.

Now every time you walk pass by this shiny, big sculpture and find a person who is just as confused as you were, you will be able to explain to some extent what it is about. If you are interested, Palazzo Vecchio is hosting a series of sculptures interacting with the frescoes and artifacts housed in some rooms to the public. Then check out the entire Fabre exhibition at Fort Belvedere. Fabre will be displayed in Florence until Oct 2. Spiritual Guards is a great art exhibition for those who love imagination and beauty. 

See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.