By Morgan O’Reilly
Coffee does not limit itself to its basic ingredients and the seemingly fundamental role of stimulating its consumer. Coffee sits in cafe bars under the dull roar of thought-provoking conversation. Coffee occupies cupholders in Manhattan taxis, accompanies egg yolks and condensed milk in Vietnam, and carries ceremonial value in Ethiopia. It can exist as a supportive friend among late-night spreadsheets and early-morning meetings, and its aroma alone can wake a sleepy family on a rainy Saturday morning. Coffee has the power to support entire villages through the harvesting trade, especially with the insurance of the Fair Trade Movement. It is complex and the possibilities for innovation lie infinitely between the harvesting, the roasting, the brewing methods, and the preparation.
The drink originated in the highlands of Ethiopia, where it arrived in the Middle East before spreading to Venice in the 1570s. Coffeehouses later spawned all along its canals before spreading to other major Italian cities like Turin and Rome. Since then, coffee has transcended past its functionality of improving productivity into a rich, diverse, ever evolving culture across the world’s borders.
As a previous barista and hopeful future coffee shop owner, I had a delightful week exploring the coffee culture Florence has to offer.
Basic Coffee Etiquette in Italy
Coffee culture in Italy stands unprecedented among its neighbors; it is quick and medicinal with little to no fuss over the preparation. Because of its uniqueness, the dreaded ‘tourist’ label can come far too easily. To avoid the foxpaus, here are some observations I’ve compiled:
- Any coffee drink containing dairy should only be consumed in the morning, and never after a meal.
- Coffee in Italy is enjoyed its simplest and purest form. Caffé shelves leave no space for an array of flavor pumps, so savor your beverage and try to taste all the subtle hints from the brew.
- In a traditional Italian bar (neighborhood coffee joint), always check if you need to pay for a receipt first to present to the barista or if you can order first and pay later.
- Typically, locals order and drink coffee at the counter. It also costs much less than sit-down coffee in some of the bigger cafes in squares such as Duomo, Repubblica, and Signoria.
Typical menu items
- Caffè: One shot of espresso
- Cappuccino: Espresso with foamed milk
- Caffè Macchiato: Espresso with a dash of milk
- Latte Macchiato: Hot milk with a dash of coffee
- Caffè Americano: Espresso with the addition of hot water
Other spin-offs found at most Italian cafes:
- Caffè Shakerato: A frothy iced coffee drink prepared with ice cubes in a cocktail shaker. Usually served in a martini glass
- Caffè d’orzo: A caffeine free beverage made from roasted barley
- Caffè ginseng: Similar to white coffee: a cream, usually of the plant origin, the sugar, the instant coffee and the dry extract of ginseng
- Marocchino: Popular in Milan, this drink comes in a small glass dusted with cocoa powder, when topped with milk froth and espresso, and topped with some more cocoa powder
- Cappuccino Viennese: A cappuccino topped with whipped cream and cocoa powder
Pro Tip: My all-time personal favorite is the cold brew, the espresso-ground beans are steeped in cold water for 24 hours. This method results in a less acidic, slightly sweeter drink. I like to pour the black coffee over ice, but a splash of milk or cream is always a good move. You can easily make cold brew at home by steeping the beans in a french press.
The Old School, the Roasters, and the Contemporary: Without question, every coffeeshop derives from a wide variety of values, customs, and creativity; so in no way can one title sum up an entire business. This being said, these three coffee categories do point to major differences throughout Florence’s coffee scene.
Old School bar/pasticceria
These shops contain classic Italian coffee and fresh pastries. They stick to the roots of Italian coffee culture to provide an authentic, timeless experience.
Example: Pasticceria Nencioni. Open for over 60 years, this family-owned Florentine coffee and pastry bar stands as a charming gem with a wide array delicious sweets and quality coffee. Whether it be a profiterole, a mini tart, a croissant, or a slice of cake, this shop will please its guests through their freshly homemade approach and unbeatable tradition.
Atmosphere: The shop gives off a timeless, charming feel with their beautiful pastries displayed before the customer.
The Roasters
Some roasting companies open stores in the city, so their base value lies on their quality, specialty coffees.
Example: ChiaroScuro. This shop was opened by the roasting company Mokaflor and contains coffees and teas from around the world. The array of espresso drinks, hot chocolates, and teas proves quite impressive, so don’t be afraid to take your time deciding. Personally, I am fond of the caffè nocciolato, combining their high quality, rich espresso with hazelnut and whipped cream.
Atmosphere: This shop has a homey, old school atmosphere with plenty of seating.
The Contemporary
Many New Age Coffee shops typically value the Third Wave Coffee movement, in which coffee is treated as a culinary delicacy, like wine, rather than a commodity. The movement lends itself to stronger relationships between coffee growers, traders, and roasters, as well as focusing on direct trade, single origin coffee (as opposed to blends), and high-quality beans. Along with these ideals, they may emphasize fair trade as well as focussing on the unique atmosphere of the space.
Example: Ditta Artigianale. This contemporary coffee shop prides itself in its focus on international coffee blends and brewing methods. Also directly involved in the roasting process, the shop combines the traditional values of Italian coffee culture with the Third Wave movement. The Artigianale baristas are knowledgeable of the bean’s origin and the process to which they receive them, so they gladly welcome conversation over their coffee’s “story.” In fact, the shop itself is designed to welcome this interaction through their lower-than-normal counters and complete visibility between the customer and the barista.
Atmosphere: The shop on Via Dei Neri, in my opinion, gives off a retro vibe with the script typography and industrial lighting. It’s a great place to sit and finish some homework or enjoy friendly conversation while alternative, mellow music fills the space. In contrast, the new Oltrarno location gives off a more posh atmosphere through interesting patterns and lighting, a muted, sophisticated color scheme, and more mature, jazzy playlist.
See more of Florence and Italy at FUA’s FB, Instagram, and Twitter.
